Kinks

cool gimmick, but I reckon it would be really frustrating to drive on in a sports car!

interested in R33 GTR rims but only if they're in great condition. Any gutter rash? centre caps? pics? willing to ship to sydney?

In my R31, flutter was so 1989 Sounded awesome, and that car ran beautifully with no BOV. However, my 33 does not like its BOV being blocked off, driveability suffers. The ECU must be more sensitive to the intake tuning. Myth that no BOV will kill your turbo is BS. My 31 ran 1 bar for 3 years and never had an issue.

I'm guessing Cyl 2 had a broken ring land and your ring lost tension when you realised the motor needed a rebuild

I'd have to take NEWGTR. Clearly it's driven by someone who can't park, and the car deserves better than that lol @ fatz For a lap round the track I'd take the R32 in less than a heartbeat, and it would come back with bald tyres and no fuel.

is there anyone in oz making quality bellmouth dumps these days? I notice batmbl's website is only selling the split dump and I'd prefer a simple bellmouth. Cheaper to make and just as good for what I need it for. Could always buy an Xforce because it's hard to f**k up a bellmouth dump pipe but if an aussie made one is not much more I'd rather keep it local!

yep the oil couldn't possibly cause that on its own unless someone mixed it 50/50 with water! turbolight is fine to run in a skyline, a fully synthetic oil would be better though.

At the back of the engine where the coil pack cover is there are two loops - one white wire and one white with a black trace. The white one is what you use, but I found that my timing light would fire inconsistently off this because it was expecting a stronger/clearer pulse. Therefore I did the plug lead trick (coil pack -> spark plug lead -> spark plug) for cylinder 1.

top covers too hot to touch is normal, your operating water temp is at least 85C which will burn you if you maintain contact. Top of the motor will be about the same temperature give or take. Your cooling system also uses (slight) pressure to prevent the water in the system from boiling if it gets a touch warm, that's why they tell you never open the radiator when hot. If the pressure is too much you'll get water/gas bubbling out through your overflow bottle. The coolant gauge on skylines is a bit of an idiot gauge sometimes it sticks on halfway unless something is significantly wrong. If you're worried about it then invest in an aftermarket water temperature gauge or use a CONSULT cable and laptop to read off your water temp. But by the sounds of things everything is normal!!

Mine seems to stay on full for a fair while (>100km) before it starts moving, but I am pretty sure I've filled up on half before and it used about 30L. Not sure about the quarter markers I generally know that I can get ~450km to a tank so if I'm pushing above 400 then I start looking for a servo. Lately I've just been filling up every tuesday regardless, because it's the cheapest day of the weekly cycle

clutch type diffs need an LSD oil. The standard R33 diff does not need an LSD oil because the viscous centre is a sealed unit. LSD oil has friction modifiers so the wet clutch works properly, if you fill with a normal oil your diff will shudder. Check to see if that Castrol one is suitable for limited slip differentials.

You don't need a torque wrench, just tighten them until you see Ray wince. That's enough.

be careful about tyres that have been sitting around for years. Check the sidewalls and tread regularly if you see any signs of cracking then the rubber has gone brittle, replace the tyres immediately.

My last car had a minispool which forced me to be careful in the wet, I would coast around corners off-throttle if I could and just the slightest throttle if I needed it. Interestingly, the R33 is almost as bad at times. It caught me out once recently on a very highly polished asphalt corner, I came through it at a conservative speed and as soon as I touched the throttle it snapped out on me. Got it back but it really took me by surprise, lucky I wasn't going any quicker. Variable road surfaces make a huge difference and you simply have to be VERY careful in the wet. No exceptions.

+1 for cell count and CFM.

oops, my bad

he said a roll start not a jump start. Sounds to me like your starter motor has fried. This would be pure coincidence, UNLESS the alarm guy has cocked it up and when you started the car the starter solenoid stayed engaged and when that happens the starter motor spins with the engine the whole time. It is not designed to do thisand will overheat in short order. I'd be taking it to an auto electrician to get it sorted, ask him if the alarm install could have caused it. It may just be bad luck though.

No offence but I wouldn't piss on sony gear if it was on fire. I guess for 60 bucks you can't really complain though I just finished my audio install, which I have done in stages. Stage 1 AVI splits in the front AVI mids in the parcel shelf and a Nakamichi head unit. Stage 2 a Precision Power 6 channel amplifier a mate loaned me. Stage 3 a custom sub enclosure from Loftyfang here on the forums and a 12" Peerless automotive sub. Gave one of my workmates a listen today and he asked me where the sub was, and when I said it was in the boot like usual he said "bullshit it sounds like the bass is coming from the front". I guess it images well I admit I do have a very critical ear for sound though. And if I can give any sensible advice to nizmo or anyone looking to buy sound gear for that matter, it's this: Take the TIME to educate yourself. Listen to, compare, contrast and enjoy the sound boards in a number of shops. Soon enough, something will pop out at you as the right choice. The first time I went through this process it was a set of Boston Acoustics Rallye splits, and once I noticed how good they were I noticed how shit the Sony/Kenwood/Pioneer/etc brands were. The unfortunate aspect is that once you educate yourself, only the best will do and that costs $$. But your ears will thank you

sounds like your thermostat is old and stuck open

for quietness you basically want the biggest centre and rear mufflers you can get your hands on. Forget anything with a canon muffler.

There's a billboard I pass every day for a Solartint dealer that offers a free mobile service, full tint with lifetime warranty for $275. However, if you have previous tint to remove there is sometimes a fair bit of labour involved in stripping it and cleaning the old glue so that will push the price up. If you can get mates' rates $200 is achievable but I reckon anyone who charges you $150 for a tint when you walk in off the street is going to do a shithouse job. Don't even consider getting a tint unless they offer a lifetime warranty.

The problem with the tape is it will go soft and peel off at high temperature, while the silicon is like an epoxy it will set HARD and resist high underbonnet temps. Try the tape by all means, just don't expect it to last if it works. Although it might mean pulling the coil packs out twice it will tell you if getting your fingers sticky is worth the effort

What area in Sydney are you? (PM me) I'm after the boot trim (red arrow), and possibly the carpeted trim piece behind the sub where the blue arrow is pointing.

that sucks! Hope you get it back unharmed. If I see it I'll call it in.

So what constitutes a secondary bonnet catch for those who don't want to attack their car with a drill. Occy strap to the front bar?