Kinks

Ah the poms so seldom win at anything, we'll let them have it Gotta hand it to louise though, the boy can steer.

you were saying (next, mention something about lewis blowing up )

pretty disappointed in Kimi's drives this season... :

+1

just sent shell an email using their web form. main reason i don't use VPR more often is I'd have to drive 20 minutes out of my way to get it.

starter motors draw volts not amps, dummy.. I'd guess it would be in the region of 100-150 amps. You could get away with a smaller battery for cranking, the reason why we put 550CCA batteries in is for standby current draw (car alarms etc, if you leave the car sitting for 3 weeks) and the motor not starting first go. If using a smaller battery I would put an isolator switch in so you can turn everything off when the car's not being used. A good idea to have one of those in a race car anyway. As a rough guide for fuses, wiring etc I would follow what the standard loom uses unless you've modified something (car manufacturers are penny-pinchers after all), by the looks of things the main battery wires are 8G and I would not be going any smaller than that (8G is rated for 50A continuous draw). My fuel pump fuse is 15A, and the spec on a Bosch 044 is 12V / 13 amps so the standard wiring would only just handle it. As general wiring practice, the current capacity of the wiring must be higher than the fuse that's installed. If you don't follow this advice I will point and laugh when you get an electrical fault and your wiring melts before the fuse does

^^ that's not a bad idea.. I was considering making up an MDF sheet to replace the standard trim panel that hides the battery... but getting it in there might be a pain with the strut brace. Ben, sent you PM

Always used 98RON, I wouldn't use anything less either. It is definitely happier on 100RON. Timing is 15 degrees, plugs are NGK BK6RE something somethign.. i think the standard heat range is 5 so it's 1 colder. Standard 1.1mm gap. I have used consult software to try richening the mixture or retarding the timing, and in both cases when I get it to the point where pinging stops the car is running like a dog. So I just leave the boost switch at its normal value so I'm only running 5psi in the midrange and 7psi up top (which it is fine with). I am thinking that a new exhaust/cat will provide less restriction and hopefully push my load points a bit further which will make the ECU richen things up slightly. I think "taking it somewhere" will only produce one of two outcomes - they will retard my timing further making it run like a dog or recommend a PFC which is a logical (but expensive) step. Really the only thing I haven't tried is replacing the fuel pump, and I don't think that's the problem because the pinging is worst in the midrange.

My car is totally stock save for a nismo rear muffler and I have my boost solenoid on a switch. If I run 7psi down low it also pings at about 3000RPM. Higher octane fuel helps, I've also heard that a better exhaust will improve cylinder scavenging and might help this problem.. planning to do it anyway so will see if it helps. Already checked ignition timing, changed fuel filter, and fitted 1 heat range colder plugs and makes no difference.

I concur. I don't wish death or paralysis on anyone though, the family and friends are the innocent ones that will suffer the most because they'll spend the rest of their lives wishing they did something differently to prevent it. But as for people that have karma catch up with them, I'll gladly sit back, watch, and smile to myself knowing that another waste of oxygen has come unstuck of his own accord.

paint job looks great.. you guys sound like you're having heaps of fun already

fixed. Putting one brand of car parts on another brand of car is a way of saying "I wish I drove a........" I feel sorry for the R33 tail lights being tacked onto that piece of crap honda.

From what I have picked up over the years, in a bush bearing turbo any axial (front to back, in and out) movement is bad because it means the thrust washer has worn out. Some radial movement is OK. In a ball bearing turbo, a very small amount of axial movement is OK. Radial movement is a bad sign. That said, a friend's brand new ball bearing HKS turbo had about 3x more radial play than the stock item we took off. I was quite surprised but I guess they run wider clearances as part of the design. Plenty of disclaimer on the above though, I have done 2 turbo swaps myself but never one due to imminent failure

You completely missed Duncan's sarcasm... You're welcome to your own opinion, but FWIW you are much closer to the mark with "it doesn't matter, so long as peak power is the same" rather than your earlier comment about it all being about "usable torque".

flux capacitor

Yep, I'm aware of that. And yet the more they limited capacity the more lap times stayed the same, because the RPMs went up to compensate (until they put a cap on engine revs). Just illustrating the point that "RPM means nothing" is complete bull.

because you touch yourself at night

Considering Kovaleinen binned his car straight after that hot-lap (causing a red flag), and then it rained, and the cars were 15 sec off the pace after that... you can't really say Louise or anyone else is slower. It's only practice, wait till quali to see who can put down a good time. Even quali could be luck of the draw at this rate. Imagine if a BMW snaked pole!

as long as it's held in by a rag and a few cable ties it should be fine??

hahahaha that's gold, on both counts. 8.07 over 450 metres as well.. should be high 7's if you only drive the required distance ballsy run. I can only imagine how quick an 8 second pass feels.

Sure sounds like it! Man that really sucks, sorry to hear it.

+1 for GB4 thread not visible!

I checked timing last night and it was a fraction advanced, now it's dead on 15 degrees. It's better, but still get a very small amount of knock at 3000RPM on 7psi (boost solenoid trick). Spark plugs are tan coloured, so it could handle being a touch richer but they look fine for a standard engine. My exhaust is all standard, I would probably get some gains by getting a dump/front pipe and higher flowing cat. Since the skylines run richer once you open them up it might be just enough to make a difference..

Any place will do. If your tyre wear is that bad I'm surprised you can't see an alignment problem by eye. When you take it there, ask them for a print-out of the readings before and after.

Great. Thanks for that gem of knowledge. The "GT" designation stands for "Gran Turismo" or "Grand Touring". Skylines were built as enduro racers, not dropping down to the shops to get some milk. A Hyundai Excel is a road car. What's usable torque going to achieve if you have to change up a gear at 3,000RPM? When was the last time you were out-dragged by a bus? Why do you think F1 cars rev to the sky rather than rely on bottom end torque? It's all down to gearing. It's better to make torque at high RPM because you can be in a lower gear, and the effective torque at the wheels is better. 90L engine? hahahaha.. you're kidding right. I think you mean 9.0L. Most prime movers use turbo diesels around the 9.0L mark (eg Volvo FM-9 prime mover is 9.4L turbo diesel). Don't pull figures out of your arse. I think I'm done in this thread.