Kinks

I have one exactly like that first image but I like it far more than $100... sorry, they are a really really nice looking muffler. Hate the canon shit with "sik bro" blue titanium handjob tips that everybody has these days. /rant Hope you find one!

My car is standard, and pings a bit on 98RON. I would never ever ever put 95 RON in it. They are designed for 100RON!! Why be so nasty to your car. If you can't afford to put the proper fuel in your car go buy a Charade. They go hard.

LOL... nicely done. Glad Mona saw the funny side

There is no point going to a larger diameter than your widest point otherwise (ie, throttle body). All you do with big piping is increase the volume (and hence mass) of air in the pipe. What happens when you suddenly crack the the throttle wide open? All that air has to go from stopped, to moving. The more air you have the more it weighs and the longer it takes to get moving. I would say maintain turbo outlet diameter to IC, and maybe go up to TB size after the IC.. either that or do your diameter switch just before the crossover pipe. The limiting factor is going to be how much air you can get through the turbo's compressor elbow and whether your intercooler is restrictive.. not the piping itself.

inline 6 and flat 6 engines are intrinsically balanced, so they run very smoothly. every other type of engine (until you get to 12 cylinders) is not balanced. balance shafts are installed next to the crank which offset this vibration but you can never do the job perfectly. The torque curve has more to do with the other design aspects of the motor. You can design an inline-6 to have massive low-end torque (most serious diesel engines are inline-6). That's not really a fair comparison, the Galant engine is a twin turbo which gives you more flexibility in how you develop boost (and by relation, torque). Also, Galants are rally cars.. where midrange torque is your bread and butter. Skylines are circuit cars, and it's all about top end on a circuit.

stop doing burnouts. seriously. also, hicas doesn't cause tyre wear. both tyres always move in the same direction. If you really are getting tyre wear that bad i would expect to see feathering on the tread as it is being worn away very quickly. Either it had a shoddy alignment, someone pulled it apart and put it back together without bothering to even align it by eye, or someone has drifted hell sik bro into a kerb and bent the rear suspension. take it to a tyre shop and get it aligned. it'll be toed in or out, probably toe out if you are having instability issues. I doubt it's hicas.

what a waste of oxygen.

keen to hear input on this, I have a stock car and even with just the "high boost solenoid mod" it pings.

Looks awesome, well done. When can I get one?

you had to remove 40% of each blade? sounds like a shitty FMIC kit. I helped a mate with his install and we had to trim the blades, but one chop with a pair of wire cutters on the corner of each blade was enough (only reduced them by a couple of centimetres).

If it's wet I put the clutch in and rip the handbrake on then hold the car at a 45 degree angle as I approach the lights. Tyres don't wear in the wet, and since the rears are locked and I'm not on the pedal I'm not using any brakes at all! (I'm not serious, btw) normally downshift at least to 3rd, and coast in-gear until i need to put the clutch in. it's better to be in gear, you'll get docked during a driving test if you neutral + coast, because if something happens and you need to put your foot down you're going to get a whole lot of revs and not much else.

I have this curse as well, and initially found an anti-squeal spray you spray on the discs. Applied to all rotor surfaces except for the inboard side of the rears, which has a heat shield all the way round. Squeal was gone for a day, then started coming back. Mainly the rears though. Today, I pulled it all apart and did 3 things: 1) Applied anti-squeal spray to both sides of rear rotor 2) Sanded pads with 80 grit to rough them up 3) Applied anti-squeal goo to the backing plate and both sides of the shims Silent for now, will give it a week or two and see what happens! I started with brand new rear discs and machined fronts, and new pads all round. Squeal came after about 250km, and a track day made it no better.

I was recommended Ferodo DS2000's ("Formula") rather than anything higher. When driving on the street you *need* good cold stop performance so it is a total waste of time buying high end pads that need a good hard stop to get heat into them before they work. I did a track day (standard power output) and these pads were fine, so on the street you would have no trouble. Changing pads is trivial anyway, so you might as well run basic pads on the street and have a set to throw in if you're going to do a track day.

I tried the stop-squeal that you spray on the discs but it doesn't seem to have helped. Couldn't get to the inboard side of the rear discs because the heatshield goes all the way around, but I did the fronts both sides.

I'd like to see you just change the midrange timing.. my ECU is standard too Tempted to get a PFC so it can be properly tuned for 98RON, but I'm probably wasting my time with a standard exhaust. Exhaust + PFC + 10psi could be a good move when I have the money tho. Your $200 tune story sounds like a friend of mine.. he had a basic "on/off" tune done on his EVO4 and the thing just dumped fuel on boost. We always joked about our fuel gauges going up when we followed him, and told him to get a proper tune as he was probably washing his bores down with raw fuel. Sure enough, the engine only lasted a short while and it was up for another rebuild.

thats the bit that has me worried. my car is 100% standard and 7psi boost in the midrange makes it ping hard sometimes (other times it's perfect). makes me wonder if stock (4-5psi) is ok *bites fingernails* (timing has been checked - mine landed with 18deg and i put it back to 15)

not posting the same question in 3 different forums would be a start.

I'm guessing it has something to do with grabbing your ankles and an application of KY to an area where things like that are not supposed to happen. What's stopping any insurance company from seeing non-ADR brake lines and going "suck a f**k"? You are going to have an uphill battle proving in court that NON-approved brake lines are still safe. Why do you think they have approved products? Spend a little extra, and then you don't have to worry about it. Insurance companies are a BUSINESS, not a charity. If they don't have to pay a claim, they won't.

the resistor blew because you were riding the brakes. brakes just slow you down, what are you using them for? sorry, don't have anything more constructive to add. I could pull apart my car and find out what value of resistor is in the tail light but I'd probably put a screwdriver through it in my current state

darkest legal is 35% f**k doing it yourself, do you want a shitty job? A proper tint job only costs a couple hundred bucks, or would you rather have f**ked windows you can't see through?

I was quite a sensible P plater, for the most part. For the other times, I was glad I had a Charade and not a Skyline. 'nuff said.

If you go crazy with your ignition timing on cruise it might not ping due to cylinder pressure being relatively low, but you generally want the flame/pressure front to reach your piston when it is already on the way down. If your peak cylinder pressure is near TDC you are wasting fuel, because the force pushes straight down on the piston, rod and crank and doesn't produce any turning force. The engine is most efficient when peak cylinder pressure is reached when the piston is "half" way down the cylinder, this means the crank journal for that piston is horizontal and maximum leverage / torque is possible to turn the crank. (halfway isn't strictly true but conceptually you can see what I mean). More advance might also increase your NOx emissions, I can't remember if timing or lean fuel mixture was the primary cause.. Disclaimer:Iamnotanenginetunerandtheabovecouldbecompleteanduttertrashbutlogicall itmakessensetome.

Ditto mate, I designed and built my own hi-fi speakers several years ago. They sound good but I'd make several improvements if I had another crack now. One thing to remember with car audio is cabin gain. Because of the small volume of the cabin, you get an increasing response as frequency goes down, and this starts to happen around 40-60Hz. So if you have a sub that is flat to 20Hz you will have a ridiculous amount of low bass in your car, it will actually sound like shit. I think a 10" sub tapering off at 40Hz is ideal for a car. This enclosure looks very promising, I have been tempted to add an amp/sub to the car but not at the expense of boot space. Given the side bit is not really useful anyway I am quite interested in this!! Mounting a 6ch amp a friend gave me will be interesting, might have to make a rear boot partition out of MDF and strap it to that!!

it depends it comes on earlier if you take corners at a decent rate, and the fuel sloshes to the other side of the tank. I can often go 70km more before filling up and still have fuel to spare. on the freeway when you're travelling straight, it comes on when you are really low, so find a petrol station NOW. also, i decided to test it once because my fuel light goes on/off all the time. i thought does it come on and stay on when i have only 2L left? well, i got onto the main road, fuel light was still going on/off and the car started stuttering because it was out of fuel. I actually find the fuel gauge to be more accurate. if the gauge is on empty or higher then I'm OK as long as i don't take a corner quickly. below empty and i have bugger all fuel left.

it doesn't have an alcohol sensor in it, just a microphone. if it detects you are slurring your words you are gone. actually, it's probably just an empty box and the cop detects the slurring