Kinks

was the response amp more powerful than previous amps? If so then you're not comparing apples with apples. Assuming the same power output, there's only 2 ways the energy can be dissipated and that's as sound energy and heat. If the response amp ran a lot hotter than the other model (this also depends on the heatsinking area) then it may just be less efficient. However I'm doubting that this is the case, you'd really have to bugger something up quite badly to make an amp that inefficient these days, and they wouldn't have developed a name for themselves if that was the case. And like ferni says, the digital amps should be more efficient with their current consumption than previous models.

exactly.. whether they pull you over or just send you a fine it makes no difference. Your only recourse is to take it to court and unless you can poke serious logical flaws in their argument the court will take the cop's word over yours every time.

I have a 4x100W amp (the blue model) if anyone's interested.. don't think I ever got even close to its capacity! (but then I never ran subs)

I've heard the 329 is the new generation 326. Why you would make a new generation of a tyre that is frankly dangerous to drive on in the wet I don't know. For that reason alone I'd steer clear of them.

Chris, what you guys get up to in your own time is your business and yours alone the standard bolt holes do look pretty pissweak, but if you had a shunt an extinguisher is heavy and i can see it twisting the bracket and maybe popping out and flying around looking for you. maybe at the speed that happens you've got other things to worry about but better to err on the safe side! hope things are well anyway.. I haven't seen any skyline peeps in months

I use it as my oil change reminder... noticed that with motul and elf oil, after 4000km or so I would drop 1 bar of pressure across the board when the oil was getting old. Eg normally would get 2 bar pressure at idle but that would drop to 1 bar when I was nearing my next change. interestingly, i've done a full 5000km on nulon oil and the pressure hasn't budged a bit.

the problem with this thread is that everyone's 0-10 scale is arbitrary. we need to know how good a tyre is relative to others that have been tried. Example, say you have 3 tyres: 1) Falken 326 2) Federal 595 3) Azenis ST115 now, if someone was using the 326s (which are shit), they might get the federals and go awesome mate these are 9/10. But someone who went from the ST115 to the federals might only rate the federals 6/10 because they found the azenis to be much better. hence the thread's really a crapshoot unless people simply list the tyres they have used in order from worst to best. my list would be something like: Falken 326 Kumho 712 Dunlop 3000A Bridgestone GIII Dunlop FM901

my car does this with standard everything. It seems to be a symptom of running 98 RON fuel, I get better performance and less popping (but not quite eliminated) running 100 RON. If only I was made of money

not bad, I'm a bit worried that it's only held in by a single bolt.. i'd prefer two for safety. what about under the driver's seat? I've seen examples of making a bracket up and it looks fairly straightforward. Not sure if you can strictly reach that with the seatbelt on tho.

exactly. well out of its efficiency range, you are wasting your time.

apexi power intakes are "maintenance free" - when they start to look scungy you just buy a new one. certainly they filter the best out of the group, according to this old chestnut: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

news flash... if you flatten a lead-acid battery and leave it that way for more than a day s it is CACTUS. if your battery goes flat overnight and you jump start it the next day and take it for a drive you'll be ok, if you leave it for a couple of days or a week then buy a new battery. don't even try to charge the flat one, it has sulfated and is no good. lead acid batteries will last for years if you store them fully charged but leave them dead flat and they'll die after a day or two. after that they'll never hold a charge again. probably the damage to your alternator was caused by trying to run the car's electrical system and charge a dead flat battery at the same time. should have just bought a new battery and put it in when you realised it had been flat for a week.

oiled foam filters normally need cleaning every 5k. the HKS oiled foam ones are known to be quite poor at filtration so i'd ditch it anyway. nissan service schedule says 20k for air filter replacements - using the standard paper type of course.

+1 for "it's the operator that matters"

Ignition timing makes a big difference, even a couple of degrees is substantial. Likely that the bigger turbo has resulted in cooler intake charge and also more efficient exhaust scavenging (less restriction) so you've got a better charge. Optimise the airflow and you don't need to throw more boost at it.

there's more to it than just the ethanol content, you can get 91RON with 5% or 10% ethanol now. ethanol is a non-issue as far as i'm concerned, although the more they use from renewable sources the better. the main number i care about for the safety of my engine is octane. It'll run like a dog. mine came with 18 degrees timing, and i put it back to the "proper" value of 15 degrees so it didn't ping so much. noticed a big difference in part throttle performance, WOT would be the same because the ECU just runs as much as it can without pinging.. but it'll ping a few times to find that limit if you're running too much advance and i don't like the sound of rattling marbles.

probably getting sick of hearing hysterical laughter wherever he goes.

all skylines came with HICAS and a viscous LSD, with the exception of some (rare) examples that have an active LSD instead. You can tell an active LSD because it has a light labeled ALSD on the inside of the tacho/speedo circle. the viscous LSDs aren't as bad as an open diff but they do let one wheel spin a bit before the other will lock up.

rubbish. my car (stock) pings on 98 RON, on 100 RON it is beautiful. jap fuel is definitely 100 RON or better.

the antenna's bolted to a metal sheet that runs down the side of the boot. on the quarter panel side (ie the side you can get your hand to) there's a plug about halfway up that's a standard loom plug, it goes into the main body of the antenna at right angles. squeeze the clip and pull it out. It's white and has about 4 wires going into it. the actual antenna wire is right up the top, and it goes in at a 45 degree angle.

perhaps this hasn't been done, and the turbo has now shit itself because of insufficient oil. there's nothing wrong with a sleeve bearing turbo, if you treat it right. My R31 turbo stood up to 14psi and no BOV for 3 years, plus whatever the previous owner threw at it.

Generally I watch the road when I'm driving, so I haven't noticed

Orange mark is TDC and then white marks are every 5 degrees after that. Standard is 15 degrees, although when my car was imported I could see that the bolts on the CAS had never been touched and it was running 18 degrees. Interesting.. but I knocked it back to 15 because otherwise it pings too much on 98RON. Even on 15 degrees it still pings sometimes, the engine was really designed for 100RON and when I put that in it runs beautifully. Still pretty expensive though

10-50 is too thick unless you're tracking it on a hot day. nissan's recommended weight is 7.5-30 so get closer to that. i think elf make a 5-30 that i was using and it wasn't bad. i'm now trying nulon's oil and it seems to be quite good.

9.3L/100km on the freeway. If I drive like a grandma around town I get about 10.5L/100km. Normal driving (mm boost) is somewhere around 12L/100km. That's pretty bloody good for a performance car.