Kinks

second the skyline book... great reference. I had copied a forum post on the diags into a text file but the skyline book has so much more information, just get that

Unless you know a good alignment place I would probably take it to a mechanic first and get him to have a look around to see if anything is bent. If he thinks it's OK then get a wheel alignment and ask them to look at the "before" figures because you kerbed it. If they are still roughly within range then they can try and align it, otherwise it's not worth their while you're better off replacing the bent part(s) and then getting it aligned. Shit happens, and it's not always bad tyres. My newish Dunlops are getting worse in the wet, they spin up really easy and it shits me. Won't be buying Dunlop again that's for sure, they weren't cheapies by any means.

left it connected to the car and all hooked up so it does its job

fill the oil until it reaches "H" on the dipstick and the coolant until it's roughly at the top of the radiator :laughing-smiley-014:

meh. i'm going to get up and watch it - doesn't really matter what time it's on as i'll go to bed around 11pm regardless. gonna be pretty tired on monday tho! I think your pubes would be rightfully offended by that remark. Funny how the Channel 10's forums for each show just have general chit chat and the F1 forum everyone is saying YOU GUYS ARE F*CKED.

get a price on hoses through a generic place like repco. nissan are cheap for some things and very expensive for other things.

Massa on pole is unstoppable. When he is in front he can just punch in lap after lap. But he doesn't have the true grit of a racer to claw himself back from adversity to win. And like you say in the wet he's not brilliant. He has impressed me this year, but really seemed to shine when the Schu was around which is another nail in his coffin unfortunately.

when a car makes you stress you should question whether it's the right one for you. GTRs are fantastic, and reliable, but any 15 year old car even if well looked after will have ongoing maintenance. Eventually things just wear out. I had my R31 for 3 years, and after 18 month it started to bug me when things broke, not because I couldn't afford it but having to take it back to the workshop 3 times and spending over $1000 (never again!) on the tailshaft.... I was never going to continue modifying it so once the enjoyment of driving it had been done to death it was time to move on.

keep going. and the antenna needs to be down or you won't get the motor assembly out of the rear quarter.

nah it'll turn into a "f*cking police are SHIT" thread, even though it's all his own fault

^^ yep. any more than that is a waste of time and a waste of petrol. I have a turbo timer integrated with my alarm but only so I can grab my keys and jump out of the car. I switch the car off and then arm it, I could count on one hand the number of times I've let it run the full 90 seconds.

been covered a hundred million times before. search.

Looks to me like the pad isn't even making contact with the inside of the rotor, it's still rusty! (and I can see the lip where the disc surface stops). 99% of the problem is going to be your calipers aren't square with the discs. That's why you're blueing the outside of the rotor so much.

Jap cars are designed to run on 100RON. However, it's a bit too expensive and inconvenient for me so I'm living with 98 RON. Ethanol is a solvent, rather than corrosive. Petrol is a solvent as well, in many ways. Ethanol is probably a bit more aggressive which is why some people are worried about rubber fuel lines etc. That said, Sydneykid has been running an ethanol mix in his skyline for years and regularly cuts open his fuel filters to inspect them, and has never seen any evidence of a problem. That's good enough for me.

they're running a story on formula1.com about how the FIA will be watching their drivers to "ensure equality" i find that hilarious - especially given ferrari's history going in the opposite direction. granted, both mac drivers are in with a shot at the title though. still, gave me a chuckle. i bet alonso will be out there with his pressure gauge making sure nobody has let his tyres down! P.S.

I'm after a series 2 electric aerial assembly. PM me if it's for sale

oh dear.. Nissan want over $500 for a new one. hahahahahaha any idea if S1 and S2 antennas are interchangeable? Will have to see what I can find second hand I guess.

I think there was something on Autospeed about modifying that sort of thing.

ahh it's not worth the hassle.. just gonna call nissan and see if they've got a new one my latent urge to void warranties by pulling things apart has been satisfied. unfortunately nothing appears to have let the smoke out, leaving me mildly annoyed that it has decided to stop working.

My antenna seems to have stopped working.. when the stereo goes on the motor engages for about a second and the antenna moves up slightly. when i turn the stereo off it engages for half a second the other way and it moves in slightly. but no more. I pulled the assembly apart and everything moves smoothly inside. running just the control PCB and the motor free-spinning, it does the same thing. so it looks like a control board issue. any ideas? or am I stuck paying for a whole new one because one 5c component has shit itself?

f**king jinxed myself, now it has shit itself good and proper

cliffs? Amen. Montoya was great to watch when he just started, being used to the american cars with their turbos he would hit the throttle a fraction of a second too early and powerslide out of every corner. Not good for tyres, but great for the onboard camera

Make it an offroad race and Webs could be in with a chance. He spends most of his time going across the grass!

I was impressed with the 3000A when I first bought them but now they have fully worn in their grip is definitely nothing special. To be honest I was expecting more, so next time I'll be looking at something else. cheers for the input

This question has come about because my newish Dunlop 3000A have started to make a fair bit of noise. They are on their way to being as noisy as the Nexen compliance tyres I had, although the wet grip is thankfully much better. I'm currently running 32psi F+R, which could be a fraction low (will try 36psi next time I pass a servo). However, I have had tyres in the past (FM901s... *sighs wistfully*) that gripped like shit to a nappy, lasted well and NEVER made a noise even with plenty of wheelspin. The 3000A's chirp over potholes and bumps even if I take a corner moderately quickly, which makes it sound like I'm pushing a lot harder than I am (street driving on the limit is bad mmkay). To my mind, the tread compound and pattern must also make a difference. Pattern should be significant in terms of longitudinal vs lateral squeal. Basically, I'd like to be able to pick a tyre that behaves itself rather than makes it sound like I'm trying to pull hectic moves around a corner when I'm not. The other option is that the surface has hardened up a bit because I've been doing too much granny driving to and from work... and I need a track day to scrub the tread a bit