Kinks

Motul Gear 300 is great stuff. My 33 had 34,000km on it when I bought it, definitely genuine as interior, engine bay and underbody looked brand new. 5 page inspection report confirmed that odometer was consistent with the car's condition. Therefore, I can safely assume that it had the standard (8 year old) nissan fluids in the gearbox and diff, and the old fluids weren't flogged out yet (the service interval for gbox and diff is every 40,000km). After putting Gear 300 in the gearbox and diff (viscous LSD is a sealed unit so that's no problem), I found that cold shifting was much improved. The old oil was occasionally a bit graunchy and not really nice to drive until up to temp. With the new oil it shifted very well when cold - more slowly than warm but that's only to be expected. When warmed up, it's even better. The old oil was OK when warm but the new stuff is still an improvement. Cliffs: Gear 300 ftw.

there is definitely a thread about it in general maintenance. search function sucks but this has been covered many times before. 1) remove old oil 2) fill with new oil 3) ??? 4) profit there you go

I can vouch for a 100% standard skyline (springs shocks wheels everything) being very neutral in handling. it will eventually understeer if you overcook it enough into a corner (I generally try not to! heh), and in-corner you can manage the attitude beautifully using the throttle. poke it enough and the back will certainly come out but I don't play with that on the street. You need to look at your setup and see what has changed from standard. Handling is generally a case of "soften the end you want to grip" so maybe your front coilovers are too stiff, or you have a big sway bar up front. I assume your tyres are the same all round.

ring whiteline for another opinion on the parts costs. install costs depend on where you take it. $60-75 for a wheel alignment is not uncommon. the amount of labour also depends widely on the specific car and its suspension, some suspension is easy to pull apart some of it you are at it for ages. labour costs to pull all your suspension apart are always going to be higher than a couple of little bushes.

Except that the percentage of rotor drivers who do what you say are much higher than the percentage of RB drivers.. Seems to be an addiction for some... boost, break, rebuild, repeat....

what a waste of time. this thread is like asking which colour is best.

You would be surprised how much timing a car will run especially under part throttle cruise. The only RELEVANT measurement you can make is your base timing at idle. You measure this with a timing gun and the bottom plug disconnected from the throttle position sensor. It should be 15 degrees BTDC.

Go the 31 you could also try r31skylineclub.com if you haven't already!

turn the bass EQ to its flattest setting. turn the low pass as low as it will go, and turn the gain as low as it will go. gradually turn up the gain until the level of bass matches the rest of the music. you shouldn't really be able to hear "the subwoofer", it should just sound like music with more oomph than it had before. next, turn the low pass up until the bass frequencies are as smooth as possible and it blends in nicely with your door speakers (ie, there are no "missing" bass notes (if there are, raise the low pass freq) and no "accentuated" bass notes (if there are, lower the gain or lower the low pass freq). that's how I would set it up anyway.. generally EQ is best left flat unless you really know what you're doing - you'll end up with a lot of "one note" bass.

brakes stop the wheels, tyres stop the car also, once you have had one decent lockup you will flat spot the tyre slightly. even if you don't feel it as vibration when driving the tyre will still tend to lock up at that same point in future. technique is also worth a mention, don't just thump on the brakes and expect to pull up. peak braking is achieved by squeezing the pedal, so the initial bite causes weight transfer forwards and you can then get on the brakes harder without them locking up. I have really cheap nexen tyres and I am impressed how well they pull up when braking properly.

somebody needs to summarise this into a bar chart of tyre model vs dry/wet/value performance somebody != me

My ignition timing was set to around 18 degrees, and the recommendation on here is 15. Knocked it back to 15 and it looks like that solved the pinging issues - the strange thing is when I bought the car it didn't ping but 6 months later it started to. Anyway, definitely get the timing checked in case yours is out too.

I put the castrol stuff in this time and it does a good job on the windscreen but it leaves streaks over the rest of the car where the detergent-water dries... so will probably go back to plain water next time (or use much less detergent than recommended)

drift, yes.. it's reversing it across 4 lanes and into a telegraph pole I'm worried about. you have to be a very sensible driver when you've got a locker. of course, many would debate my sanity in having ZE-326's fitted on a locked axle anyway..

burnout, rotate tyres, burnout, done seriously though 200km is about right.. it doesn't happen overnight.

I'm sure I spotted Liz the other day, in her sexy little red thing

shimming a diff is not a good solution - clutch plates are made of friction material and will give you LSD action, shims just make everything want to bind because there is less clearance than designed.

always a good idea.

it's really needed if you don't want to get a hefty defect/fine when you get pulled over for a "random breath test" and the copper notices you're running without emissions equipment. carbon cannister does nothing for performance, it's an emissions device. leave it in - it does no harm.

so that explains massa's 60 second first quarter (was watching the live timing)

congrats. read these forums extensively. there is a LOT of information already there.

I have some of the rainx you add to your washer bottle and don't really rate it, at least as far as its cleaning ability goes. it did alright in repelling water I guess, but i won't bother buying it again. also, do NOT use dishwashing liquid. it is designed to strip grease, wax, and oil off your pots and pans. guess what's on your car's paint - oils and waxes! you'll end up with paint like a chalkboard if you use dishwashing liquid long term. same as washing your car in it. yeah it's cheap but do it on an excel not a skyline.

just don't take anyone else out with you..

ouch, that's cold hope you're not without a decent car for too long!

the stock item is only a problem if you have SUBSTANTIAL power gains and the original plenum is causing a restriction. I've heard of 300rwkw on the standard plenum before even thinking about changing it. There is not much point until you reach that power level.