Kinks

sounds like a good night then happy belated birthday mate

the older fans had less sophisticated profiles which meant they were noisier. my R33 fan sounds efficient and powerful, when it locks up. my R31's fan made it sounds like a falcon, just chopping at the air and making noise.

yes, viscous. they are standard on GTS-t models, active LSD (A-LSD) was an option on them - it is a computer controlled clutch type diff and you will have a dash light inside your tacho if you have it. Unless someone has replaced the diff in your car then there's a 95% chance you have a viscous LSD in it. The GTR has a mechanical (clutch type) rear diff, that much I am certain of. I'm not sure about the front diff.

Yes, more neutral. If a car is understeer biassed and you put your foot down the rear grips, the front scrubs and you go straight ahead. If a car is neutral and you put your foot down the back wheels spin and you get oversteer. Now re your above post... Your comment about the car pivoting around the spinning wheel is false IMO.. I don't believe it works that way. When you have no LSD then the tyre with the least grip will spin. The thing is, this is unpredictable and the spinning tyre can change from moment to moment. Hence, yes, you can fishtail and lose it with an open diff in the wet because when you correct, the weight shifts and the other wheel spins up, making it snap back on you. A V-LSD is in some ways almost as bad because the LSD action is related to SPEED differential. Not applied torque from the engine. So you must have some wheelspin in order for the LSD to start working. Again, if you have small amounts of wheelspin it can behave like an open diff. My R33 is really quite twitchy in the wet sometimes. A clutch type LSD operates on torque - the more torque the more LSD action so they are much better LSDs. Then you've got locked diffs - by which I mean there is no differential action both wheels always rotate at the same speed. This is bad for handling, bad for tyre wear and bad for your rear bushes. Not to mention really bad for grip unless your wheel is pointed dead straight. HOWEVER, with a locked diff you always know that any wheelspin means both wheels are spinning, and they are very predictable in that respect. Of course, if you don't know how to drive then you WILL end up reversing it into a tree because you thought that giving it a hit around a wet corner was a smart idea. Totally dangerous and illegal. But fun. Apparently. Regarding your rain problem, I'd say you spun the inside wheel, as it had less grip. Then the V-LSD saw a speed differential between the wheels and started transferring torque to the outside wheel. Since the engine is now revving harder through the spinning wheel you've got more torque available and this overpowers the other rear wheel and then you're going sideways.

gotta love an R31 when it's sideways..... awesome stuff

Group buy on golf balls and footy socks! I laughed at the people who tried that one last time we had hail, and got knocked back from their insurance company... hah! what twits. they deserve to be driving a dented car.

that's a huge generalisation. rotating mass has much more inertia if it is far away from the axis of rotation. most of a tailshaft's mass is an inch or two away from the rotational axis, so lightening will have minimal effect. most of a wheel's rotating mass is several inches from the axis, so lightened wheels would make a bigger difference.

they look like fun

I wouldn't piss on MTEC bulbs if they were on fire. And I'd probably laugh at the person whose headlights were going up in smoke. ABSOLUTELY THE WORST LIGHTING I HAVE EVER SEEN. Dim, blue, completely unsafe. You've got to be f**king joking me. They lasted one night in my R31, I threw them in the bin - even standard bulbs were better. Get Narva Plus 50's if you want more light. They blow more often but them's the breaks.

not if you're driving like a grandma. Mine howl like buggery. Sure they can. You just don't have an appreciation for how much difference good tyres can make. The Calais is also a barge, and with no turbo the torque is always linear with respect to your right foot. Skylines are also better balanced, so overpowering in the wet = wheelspin = sideways. I bet a Calais's natural tendency is to have better rear grip and understeer on the limit. Keeps the bogans safe

you fags are hilarious

^^ if it's misfiring on the higher boost setting I'd say you need to change your plugs, gap them down a bit, or get new coil packs.

when I did mine I soaked the studs in Penetr8 overnight before trying to undo them. It seemed to help, because most came out OK. A couple had already snapped off and they needed to be drilled and easy-outed. Like Manwhore says - this is NOT a job to be rushed. Snapping a stud will annoy you but if you snap an easy-out you are in worlds of pain.

Nexen N2000's are VERY ordinary in the wet. I have a set as compliance tyres and when they are worn out I will be putting some decent tyres on. In the dry they feel pretty decent but in the wet they are almost as bad as Falken 326's.

Slabs for the anyone who sticks a "bomb me" sticker on his back

what's your radiator cap like? is it sealing properly on the new radiator? the job of the radiator cap is to keep a small amount of pressure in the system to raise the boiling point slightly.. maybe yours is a bit tired?

R32 GTR has been a dream car for ages. I could have bought one but went with an R33 GTS-t instead - will probably regret saving the 4 grand (even though I did it for a good reason) and pay through the nose to get a '32 when I'm old

putting it on a forklift and shaking it sounds like a recipe for the skyline and the forklift ending up on their side on the ground. with bent chassis rails. there is oil in the bottom of your gearbox, shaking it will do sweet FA the screw will just stick in the oil. what I would consider doing, and remember I am pulling this out of my arse so I make no guarantees it won't make things worse.. is that the first thing you do assuming you have touched NOTHING since the screw fell down there.. is fish around in the gearbox with a magnetic screw grabber (a magnet on the end of a telescopic stick). see if you can grab it out the top. failing that, i would jack the rear wheels up, hold the clutch in and have a friend spin the wheels gently one way and if they bind, then gently the other way. you want to try and help the screw fall down into the bottom of the box. if you can spin it as much as you want in either direction, then drop the oil and hope it comes out. if it doesn't, then you might need to improvise a bent stick to probe around the bottom of the inside of the gearbox with your magnet and hopefully pick it up that way. good luck to ya anyway, next time don't drop the screw

how about we just grab a bunch of those crossed circles and stick them on cars that have frangipanis on them

people living on the coast here have black stickers with white writing on them that say things like: MONA VALE Somewhere on the Australian coast the funniest one I've seen was something similar to: VEGEMITE On every Australians' toast we should get some made that say FRANGIPANIS It's flowers on cars I hate most

I don't think you're going to find anyone with an "other" opinion besides my "it's cheap insurance, do it". somehow, flogging the ring out of a turbo car in darwin weather on standard 98 RON fuel just doesn't seem like a smart idea. put octane boost in for safety and have fun. keep an ear out for detonation, helps to have someone trackside who can help as it can be hard to hear with a helmet on.

in theory they should be similar accuracy, but a full sweep gauge makes it easier to visually identify smaller changes. i'd go with what looks better, myself. either way, a quality aftermarket gauge that reacts quickly is better than the stock dials.

looks nice, good job

might as well, it's cheap insurance. if you don't bother resetting the ECU then the ECU will still be using the conservative map it learnt for 98RON. reset it after the track day so any learning for 98+octane boost is trashed

liz