Kinks

the stock gauges are idiot dials, they give you a basic indication but are slow to react and hide changes from you (eg water temp gauge shows halfway no matter if it's a cold winter morning or hot summer day). bear in mind that mechanical gauges are sometimes a defect item - you cannot run a mechanical oil pressure gauge inside the cabin because a leak will spray hot oil around at high pressure which is dangerous. mechanical boost gauge is fine IMO, worst that's going to do is hiss at you.

iridiums warn you on the packet not to adjust the gap, because the centre electrode is very fine and easily damaged. at least you found the problem eventually.

shame about the skyline.

aussie silhouettes have a 90mm caliper spacing, and at least in the skyline family that's a dead end. you can bolt on import struts (if you can find any, they're rare and expensive) which have a 100mm spacing. The standard brakes on these struts are the same as the R31 GTS, I believe.. but you can also bolt on R32 or R33 brakes to this strut. you're probably better off asking on r31skylineclub though.

replied in your other thread. crossposting is bad, mmkay?

the effect of caster is that it adds "dynamic camber" - the more you turn the wheel the more camber you get. but when you straighten the wheel, camber gets less. this is good because the tyres lean into the corner when they need to (under load) and not when you're driving straight.

^^ firm application of your right foot to the accelerator pedal will create a smoke screen that blocks the stickers from view

I still miss the noise it made.. it was that good

I agree. bostons are very good for the money. very good.

caster. adding more camber will cause the tyres to wear a lot on the inside, as you spend most of your time on the street driving straight. but I am no guru

Everyone has a different opinion on this. Personally, I bought an R31 w/ RB20DET off a guy who had taken the BOV off, and it made filthy compressor surge noises while running 14psi of boost. I drove it like that for 2 years (on the standard turbo!), then upgraded the turbo for an R33 S2 item because I felt like it. Ran that for another year on ~10-12psi boost with no BOV and it was fine. That said, a proper recirculating BOV helps reduce lag between gear changes. Since my current car is standard I'll be leaving it as-is. But on the R31... it sounded wicked and didn't hurt anything.

I'd be interested in the wiring diagram too. That said, I just chucked 5W wedge globes in there and adjusted to the new brightness level

clutch pedal only going halfway in = get clutch serviced by mechanic. like race bred said maybe your hydraulics are shot. as far as the grinding into 4th goes, most RB boxes have this problem. mine's a minter and even with new synthetic oil in it still grinds into 5th at high revs (4th is OK since the oil change though). if RB synchros on 4th and 5th aren't brilliant then skipping a gear will only make life harder for them.

5 is the standard heat range. if you're running close to standard power then colder plugs shouldn't be necessary. Edit - popping and misfiring is very likely to be tired coil packs. Gap your plugs down to 0.8mm and give it another shot

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looks like a twit to me.

what if I laughed? Yep. I noticed the stickers started to take off after they had a Getaway/Great Outdoors/whatever show about the pacific islands a few months ago. Had not seen any on cars before that point. Now people just buy them and slap them wherever so it's lost meaning - I saw one car with a huge frangipani right in the middle of the rear window - does that mean she's continually turning over men? Should have just bought a playboy bunny sticker

heh. the speedo cable in my R31 bounced around at slow speeds for as long as I had the car. they don't make em like they used to

i've had good results with meguiars plastx as well. it's designed for the job, and contains UV inhibitors that should delay the yellowing process in future (unlike polish, toothpaste, brasso, wet-sanding etc).

pull stuff out. and grab the plug with needlenose pliers. otherwise you tear your hands to shreds, i don't even have big hands and it was impossible to get the leverage i needed. with pliers it was golden.

After doing the mod and spending the first week doing nothing but fiddle with my toggle, I left it in "standard" mode until the other night.. nice cool dry weather flipped the switch and I was grinning like a little kid after a few seconds. worth keeping in reserve for special occasions sometimes, otherwise you risk spoiling yourself every day

RPM is limited by the ECU, so there is no way it can improve that. 100% bullshit. Ultra slippery oil will gain you what, maybe a couple of percent? A high flow turbo it is not! Considering a modern roller bearing turbo, you would have to be running grease through it to make a difference in spooling RPM, or spooling speed. The air rushing through it is much more significant than the small contact patches with oil on them in the bearing. You'd think that if it was so brilliant they would sell it wherever possible. Sell it to an oil company and get a commission off every oil bottle sold with your additive. That would be the smart way of going about something genuinely revolutionary. No, I'll just stick to a good quality full synth oil thanks. Not worth the risk of pouring chlorine into my engine.

I don't agree with all your figures.. the dial sits at 0 with ignition on and engine not running, so it can't be producing 6psi of boost mmHg x100 (relative) ------------------------------------------------------------------ - 7 = (PSI) -13.5 = (Bar) -0.92 1/4 = (PSI) -6.8 = (Bar) -0.47 0 = (PSI) 0 = (Bar) 0 3/4 = (PSI) 6.8 = (Bar) 0.47 + 7 = (PSI) 13.5 = (Bar) 0.92

Interesting. I'm guessing Type X is Alpine's competition SQ speaker range, because I can't see scanspeak offering anything lower than that.

these are the first suppliers I've seen that publish beam cutoff photos of their product. kudos. Edit - RE Xizor's post I am interested in your answer to that.. the main thing stopping me from an HID conversion is exactly that issue - that you end up blinding oncoming drivers because the beam cutoff is not sharp any more, hence the headlight cannot be aimed properly. Judging by the photos on the website it looks like a good product, but S2 R33 reflectors might be different to the demo vehicle! I would like to see a beam cutoff comparison between halogen and GE HIDs in a S2 R33. Defected for HIDs isn't BS, done improperly such a mod can be quite dangerous to other drivers. At least if this brand lives up to its claims it will be a far better option than most! (and let's face it, just about every damn thing that's worth doing is illegal these days).