Kinks

I've seen an engine (redtop RB20) do a big end after being bounced off the limiter for a couple of seconds. It's not kind to the engine, so don't make a habit of it. Having it cut briefly on you because you didn't grab the next gear soon enough is OK. That said, my charade used to rev its tits off.. I had mates who wouldn't get out of the car until I'd hit fuel cut at least once

sweet. 10 seconds is more sensible, gotta strike a balance between abuse/whoring and being held up the search function is kinda counter-intuitive (it should tell you the search terms must be 4 characters minimum or they are disregarded). I still don't have much luck searching for things - it's livable though.

Them's fighting words, I'll take a pair of 4300K kits at that price thanks! Else I think you should pull your head in. Even I know fitting these HID kits is not legal, because of the reasons bankids has mentioned. Would it stop me if I was otherwise convinced the result would be an improvement? No, of course not. The only proviso is that oncoming drivers aren't being blinded by the mod. That is the main thing holding me back from buying an HID kit. I'd love to see some pictures of the beam cutoff pattern on R33 S2 headlights, if anyone has some spare time.

it's far easier than shorting out your wiring harness, causing a fire, and watching your pride and joy burn to the ground. ok maybe i'm exaggerating, but seriously.. taking the battery terminal off is by far the easiest way.

any "best speaker" lists that contain pioneer, kenwood, alpine, clarion, etc makes me laugh. any "best speaker" list that contains sony makes me want to projectile vomit over the person who said it. you should start by mentioning your budget, and what else you've heard that sounds good to your ears. if you can't tell the difference between sony xplod and boston acoustics, for example, then save your money (P.S. bostons shit all over them you cloth-eared git! ). chances are if you're asking about the BEST speakers you will a) have never heard of them and b) have a bitch of a time finding them

I've done an oil flush before on the pulsar with no ill-effects. I've also used nulon's "lifter free" on my R31 RB20 and it slightly changed the note of the engine, for about 10,000km. it didn't blow up or anything but it didn't fix the lifter noise either! (the problem seemed to be more related to me parking it on a hill every night).

the fill/drain holes are not hex shaped, they have a square indent. this is a standard 1/2 inch drive shape, so a 1/2 inch socket wrench without any sockets in it is the correct tool (altho you may need a breaker bar ) the drain plug is on the back of the diff, at the bottom, facing the rear bumper. the fill plug is on the passenger side of the diff, halfway up, facing the left rear wheel (it's a bit trickier to spot). a short extension bar on your socket wrench will be needed. always make sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain your old oil...

can an admin look at fixing the search function? it's a bit annoying seeing the same questions asked every week, and searching never digs up anything useful - i searched for "r33" and it told me no results were found!

cool pics i remember elvis from photographing him out galston way a couple of years back... boy is it LOUD! (high pitched turbine noise)

^^ yes, just needs a bigger hammer

have you seen my baseball?

in my experience, stupid people breed quicker.

it should, and i know there are some savages around who will flog their skyline on 91 RON and the engine seems to keep it together (not sure for how long though!). My stock series 2 occasionally pings slightly on 98 RON, so I'd feel horrible about putting anything less in (had to use 95 RON plus octane boost once and it still wasn't brilliant). should have a look at the spark plugs sometime they're probably the factory originals

warming a car up by letting it idle is an absolute waste of time. start it, wait 10-15 seconds for the oil to circulate and then drive off gently.

having all your oil in the sump when the engine's running won't do much good for the engine.

I think the main mistake people make is assuming insurance companies are there to help you out. Bullshit. They're there to make money!

there's no point in using ANY oil past the point at which it starts to break down. however, that might be 3000km for a mineral oil, 5000km for a basic synthetic or 10,000km for a top shelf synthetic. so if you buy a cheaper oil you will have to change it more often anyway. i'd rather buy good quality, full synth oil and change it "often enough". grab a sample of basic mineral oil (GTX3) and a good synth oil, and rub each one between your fingers. the full synth one is a LOT slipperier.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/ http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWT...r%20Test%20Data I'll be sticking to paper filters..

Sold my R31/RB20DET, and a month later bought my R33 series 2. it was a planned upgrade, don't regret it for a second

I have zero problems removing my oil filter by hand. On a GTR, maybe things are a bit tight.. on a GTS-t there is loads of room! I just get in there with both hands and give it a twist. Only do it up as tight as I can by hand too so it's not too hard to remove next time. Rule of thumb is you always need a bigger tool than you used to do something up to get it undone again. If you put your oil filter on with a wrench you're f**ked.

correct.

jeez, your old man must be a butcher - or maybe he just hates skylines I'd advise not letting him near your car again!

temperature sensor for the cat. if the cat gets too hot a dash light shows up to let you know. shouldn't normally happen unless there's something wrong or you're driving it like it's stolen, but might as well have it plugged in since it's there!

eek, scary stuff. good thing you got his details though, you can hit them up for the damage now.

^^ they were cruising around in UTES? shit eh