Kinks

the people who whinge about skyline grounding points are probably running bullshit power that the stock wiring system was never designed to cope with.

You don't need "LSD" oil for a standard viscous diff. the viscous LSD unit is sealed from the rest of the diff enclosure and has its own fluid. If you have a clutch type LSD (ie, you have a GTR, or your diff centre is aftermarket, or you have a skyline with A-LSD) then you need an "LSD" oil with friction modifiers in order for the clutch plates to work properly.

you must replace the gasket. also, do all the studs. otherwise you're just asking for more to break, they are 15 year old anyway! I'd just use standard nissan studs. it will be another 10-15 years before you have problems again so don't obsess over which ones to use.

^^ still drunk when you wake up ftw.

this is true

I can piss higher up a wall than any of you.

I believe everyone at summernats is still busy coercing drivers to do 'skids' and women to take their tops off ahh good value, i regressed to a bogan for a day

^ I agree. Far more likely you got bad fuel.

that's gold pay more attention to colour codes in future!

I used Motul Gear 300 (fully synth bro!) and I would rate it as fantastic.

No, VMX80 has been tried and recommended by many people on here. My S2 had a genuine 34,000km on it when I bought it and I noticed a marked IMPROVEMENT when I dumped the factory oil and filled it up with Motul Gear 300. You will probably notice a difference in shifting quality when you put fresh oil in, too.

yep. now, i haven't seen said corner but you *may* need to drift it in order to keep the revs up and stop the engine from stalling, if you leave it in 2nd if you need first, double clutch the downshift. clutch in, gearbox into neutral, clutch out, rev the engine, clutch in, gearbox into 1st, clutch out. takes some practice but you MUST have your foot off the clutch in neutral or you're just rev matching, not double clutching. rev matching won't save your synchros. the reason why it's not going into 1st any more is because the synchro WAS healthy, now it is worn and it can't match the revs any longer -> crunch.

Get a new mechanic, he has no clue about engines. Beer Baron's rule of thumb is true for mineral oils at least, as they do have a natural tendency to thin out when hot, so additives are added to reduce this. The wider the vis range the more additives (which break down over time, meaning your vis changes). Synthetic oils don't thin as much, and don't require as much additive. Only go for a 50 or 60 weight when racing. It's much too thick for the street. 5W-30 or 0W-30 fully synthetic is perfect.

it sure as f**k won't if you keep trying to put it in 1st when you're moving faster than a crawling pace. tell your mate to learn to drive. or if he's intent on abusing cars, get a hyundai.

Last time I went to summernats everyone was very complimentary towards the girls. Although, it may have been the particular area I was in, I'm not sure Anyway, I should be there on the saturday. Maybe bump into some people I know!

spotted a black R32 doing mccarrs ck this afternoon

no, you can't shim a viscous diff.

take it to a mechanic. it might be something simple but brakes are critical, don't take any shortcuts if you don't know what you're doing.

any battery that fits and looks decent quality will do the job. lead acid batteries are NOT sold flat, being flat is the number one thing that will KILL a lead acid battery (it's called sulfation, and it kills them fast). car batteries are always sold close to fully charged. you should keep them this way, if you let a battery go flat for a couple of days it is cactus.

motul gear 300

motul gear 300

the banjos on the RB25 turbo are larger (although some late model 32s might have the larger banjos already?). my red-top RB20 turbo had the smaller banjos, so I needed RB25 turbo, banjo bolts, and lines.

bush and roller bearing turbos are opposites. from memory, a little side to side (radial) movement in a bush bearing is OK. movement in the direction of the turbine shaft (axial) indicates the bearing is shagged. in a roller/ball bearing turbo a little bit of axial play is OK, but radial is bad. funnily enough, when a friend bought a brand new HKS turbo they had more play than the stock turbo we pulled off his car!!!

will have to digest this tomorrow, thanks

Yes, the bostons have a very smooth, neutral nature. They sounded noticeably better than everything else in a similar price range (alpine, clarion, focal etc) when I was buying speakers years ago, and I'm sure things haven't changed. Very nice speakers, for the money.