Kinks

Some diffs do only act in one direction - they are called "1-way LSDs". You can also get 2-way which act on accel and decel (decel is the same force as reverse). Also there's 1.5 way which has a harder LSD action on accel and mild LSD action on decel. the standard viscous LSD is basically a bunch of plates sandwiched together, half connected to one axle half connected to the other, and filled with sticky goo. So it doesn't care which way the wheels are spinning, but because the LSD action is provided by a liquid it'll never bite as hard as a mechanical diff.

Beaching is only normal for single spinners and torsen LSDs. Open diffs effectively send all torque to the wheel with the least grip. Torsens act as a torque multiplier so if you have zero grip on one wheel you'll actually spin it up - if however you put your foot on the brake slightly the LSD will function. Viscous LSDs (standard in skylines) act based on speed differential - ie the faster one wheel is spinning the more torque will be applied to the other. Clutch type LSDs do the same thing but in a more effective way. My (healthy) VLSD will never beach, but I frequently spin wheels slightly getting up our steep and curvy driveway. However, even though one wheel is spinning the other is still pulling me up the driveway - if I put my foot down harder it'll still launch itself.

I had MTEC bulbs that only lasted 1 night. They were so hopeless at illuminating the road I threw them out. Never again.

that's what I was thinking

^^ +1, I really couldn't add any more! Was a top night, I had lots of fun

very common problem for skylines to crunch going into high gears at high RPM. My R33 has very low k's and even with good synthetic Motul gear oil it isn't perfect into 5th at big speeds (and the Motul was still a big improvement over the original gear oil!).

extreme ultra max, of course! stupid titles really.

ruler flat boost curve would be nice but not necessary IMO. A drop of 2psi simply means your turbo's not working quite so hard at high RPM and that's where things start to fly apart. It just means you can run 2psi more boost in the midrange!!

*GASP* did someone say... *WHEEZE*.. swimsuit models?? oh you prick.

I'm on a mission to seek and acquire in the morning

Tinks, can I make a late entry? Qantas won't take no for an answer (ok, so I didn't try very hard )

^^ I have recently done exactly the same thing. Pickup is improved, stronger midrange. It's not a HUGE difference but it does feel better. Would much prefer to be running 14.7psi all the time though

noisy lifters are usually caused by the oil port being partially blocked, no oil means it doesn't take up the clearance and the cam lobe hits the lifter when it turns round, rather than the lifter always sliding on the cam surface. it wouldn't cause a car to run on 5 cylinders, if it's missing you have another problem.

He might be, but he'd be screaming a lot

Each to their own indeed - I think blue lights are for cop cars and stopping junkies from finding a vein.

from wiki: I'd like to see a proper test done on oil performance, it would be interesting.

there's quite a noticeable difference in 235s vs 225s, in my experience. Whether it's too heavy or not is up to personal opinion, go to the gym I say With stock tyres all round, the balance of R33's is quite good off-throttle and a bit taily on-throttle. Putting narrower tyres on the front will reduce cornering grip slightly, but also keep it in line a bit better when you put your foot down. That said, I like the stock balance so I'll continue to have the same size tyres all round.

ugh, blue headlights. I tried one set of tinted globes in my R31, because there was very little around in H3C and the bog standard type I could get from the local parts store weren't very impressive. I might as well have had cataracts. Dim, blue light which didn't illuminate anywhere near as much as the boggo type, and the colour meant everything was glary. Sure, they looked sik bro, but the light output was actually dangerous. I threw them in the bin and did a wiring mod so I could run Plus-50 H3 bulbs instead. Much better. On the R33, I have been tempted to install an HID kit but this thread is making me think it might not be the best idea. If I did go a kit I would go the lowest colour temperature that's available, I think it's 4100K which is what a lot of OEMs use. Failing that I would get nice bright globes - although the fact that Plus-50 et al seem to run their filaments hard (had them in the pulsar, didn't last very long) makes me think i shouldn't bother with installing relays if I go that route.

If you flog the car on the track then get an air cooled oil cooler, for the simple reason that although water is more conductive, cooling with 25C air is more effective than cooling with 90C water. If you're only doing a few hard laps and then taking a break then i don't see any problem, and have wondered about oil/water heat exchangers for the same reason of bringing the oil temp up from cold and providing some cooling benefit when warm.

i've had this happen regularly across 2 cars so it can't be particles in the oil. no reliability problems (touch wood ) out of either car they have both been perfect motors. i'm going along with the dirty oil pan + washing dirt down into the pan when you pull the old oil filter off and oil gushes down the side of the block.

yikes. I'd rather fit a camber kit, thanks

that's awesome!

it's not just bearing noise is it? RB motors are designed to be loaded at high revs, not low revs.

marshall was lucky. that well-timed jump saved him several broken bones, quite possibly even his life.

final Mogress! I have a date with the razor in the morning