Kinks

seconded. or a Cooper filter, they are good quality too.

Personally I think the "Type M" thing is rubbish. There's such a long list of options and no agreement between anyone on what makes up a Type M.

To broaden the question somewhat.. is going wider on a given rim better or worse? eg 205/55 R16 vs 225/50 R16 on a standard rim.

^^ erm, not the same thing. Ethanol is C2H6O and Methyl Benzene (Toluene) is C7H8. Toluene increases octane but has no oxygen component. It's also a denser hydrocarbon than Ethanol. Brazil certainly is running on 85% Ethanol, and good on them. It's more sustainable than pumping dino juice out of the ground.

rose joints are illegal on the street, because when they wear out they fall apart.. Having your suspension detach in the middle is generally not a good thing You don't need that much adjustment on the street. On the track, sure.. especially with semis If your alignment is fine but the bushes are clapped out just get the bushes replaced. Otherwise get adjustable castor rods and have at it (have seen the noltec ones for a 32 GTR and they make a brick shithouse look like a tent). Vibration is either caused by out of balance, cheap out-of-round tyres or that your wheels aren't perfectly true on the hubs (you will probably get brake vibration if this is the case because the rotor will be out as well). Edit - if your wheel bearings are on the way out that can cause it too. If the springs are bouncing around like you say it sounds like the car is oversprung. Personally I think it's foolish to run rock hard suspension on aussie roads, get some nicely matched springs and shocks instead!!

yep, ALSD cars have a light in the middle of the tacho. if you don't have that it's fairly safe that you'll have a viscous LSD, unless the previous owner changed it.

I'm not supporting channel 10 because they promised to show F1 live, and they didn't. I'm not supporting foxtel because the amount of ads on fox is f**king ridiculous. they're both as bad as each other, and both have some valid points but all the bitching about decent F1 coverage is just for show. None of them really care about the F1 fans as their prime time audience is larger, so F1 will always play second fiddle.

this info would be handy, especially seeing as the search function on this forum sucks balls.

I put a bit over 3.5L into mine when I changed it, prior to that I had heard anything between 3.8L and 4.1L.. If you bought 4L and it accepted every last drop you would still be pretty safe, 100ml isn't going to change the level much.

running out of boost juice will do it in a hurry.

^^ I put Gear 300 in my gbox and diff. If you have an A-LSD then Gear 300 will wear your diff out, because it doesn't have friction modifiers for clutch type LSD. However, the standard viscous LSD is a sealed unit and thus the diff oil does not need to be rated for LSD action.. hence I used Gear 300 throughout and can highly recommend it (anything that improves shift feel on a car with only 38000km on it has gotta be good!!)

interesting. my RB20 had a similar noise that came and went - mech reckoned it would get worse before anything bad happened suffice to say I continued driving the car for 3 years and then sold it and nothing bad happened! but if you suspect the timing belt is too tight get someone to address it. nothing worse than bending 24 values.

all the previous answers are wrong, disregard. you're dangerously low on boost juice and your turbine will shatter if you keep driving!! nah it's normal. turbos are just an air pump driven off exhaust gas if they don't have a large flow of exhaust gas they won't produce boost!

idling an engine for an extended period of time isn't good for it. oil pressure is low, combustion pressure is low, heat output is low so it spends a LONG time getting up to temp. just don't flog it (redline), labour it (flat throttle at 1500RPM) or sit on constant revs on the freeway. drive it as you normally would - run standard boost and give it a bit of a squirt up to 5000RPM. combustion pressure helps seal the rings against the bores!! but at the same time friction will be highest in a new motor so I wouldn't feel sympathetic by forcing it to do high RPMs.

I'm here for the leg-humping

Nissan's anti-knock measures will be as good as you'll find I'm sure - I once put 96 RON in my R31 as that was all I could get and it had stuff all power. Didn't hear it ping at all though. It can be done but it's not nice to your motor. The ECU will retard the ignition timing like crazy to prevent pinging. If you're running higher boost it's a different story. The ECU only has so much adjustment it can make and if you push it outside that range by increasing power then it might ping regardless. Plus extra boost, that's when you damage things. Personally I think anyone who puts less than 98 RON in a skyline doesn't deserve to own one!

will be watching it on TV hoping some taxis blow up on the track

any crash you can walk away from is a good one. that goes for anyone else involved too. in a powerful car it only takes a second or two of misjudgement and the stakes are incredibly high. thankfully the worst thing that happened was a beaut piece of machinery was destroyed.

Absolutely. We've all done stupid things on the road, this is a perfect example of something bloody stupid. You got very lucky with the lack of injuries, that's for sure. Hope you learn from this - the crash was entirely the result of driving the car outside its limits and far outside your own limits.

there are 2 main kinds of buffer - orbital and rotary. an orbital rotor jiggles around in a circle (like your hand motion would be when polishing a car) as well as rotating. it is very difficult to damage your paint with an orbital, with the slight downside that you need to put a bit more work into your polishing because the action is quite gentle. a rotary is like a pad attached to a drill, it just spins. can produce very quick results, but can also produce very convincing swirl marks, burn your paint or scour it right back to the primer. do not under any circumstances get a rotary buffer if you're a noob. leech's option isn't a bad one - if you get a detailer who does a GOOD job on it to do all the prep work you really only have to remember to wax it every couple of months after that, and you can wax by hand.

don't know whether old brake lines would make a difference, given that they're rubber.. I have heard from people who have done it that a master cylinder stopper makes an enormous difference to brake pedal feel. not sure if that's at the start of the travel or just for hard braking though, the car was being tracked.

far too much mechanical sympathy for that. maybe if I had a rental....

check you don't have gunk inside the plug - that was the problem with my parker bulbs. a multimeter will tell you if you have any voltage getting to it and it's just a bad contact on the bulb.

check with a multimeter - preferably down the backs of the plugs if you can... one of my parkers blew, when i went to replace it there was all this white gunky shit inside the plug looks like maybe something nissan put in there to prevent corrosion - it was stopping the new parker from lighting up properly too (it would go on and off when i wiggled the plug). i belted the inside of the plug with contact cleaner and some dry air and then put the new parker in and it worked perfectly.

Showed this article to a mate and he ripped his HKS pod off quick smart and got an apexi