Kinks

just amazing.. 91 grand prix wins and he would do any toyota ad proud that was a great race, this year has been an absolute cracker. i've got hungary and the sphincter of the universe captured to DVD and i'm capping this race as well.

the point is a TT makes people think they can flog the car and then park it and leave it idling while they walk away. a bit of mechanical sympathy goes a long way in ANY car, not just turbos.

sounds a lot like a master cylinder, i would probably take it to a mech and get them to sort it out. brakes are one thing you don't want to mess around with unless you really know what you're doing.

oh sorry, i'll stop getting excited by what we can do with materials now I am well aware there are more plastics than shopping bags too

only DIY way to fix that is with nissan touch-up paint. looks like it's gone through to the plastic, i had someone else gouge my bumper in the same spot it's really bloody annoying. i wish i could see them doing it so i could give them a clip over the back of the head for being so inconsiderate.

drivers side requires removal of washer bottle, radiator overflow, and moving the fusebox to the side a bit. needle nose pliers will pop the mounts out without tearing your hand to shreds. just needs a gentle twist on the socket after removing the plug. and don't put blue lights in

TTs are a bit of a wank, all that's needed is some common sense either drive gently and give it 10 seconds to idle before turning off or let it idle for 30-60 seconds and be done with it. Did this with my last car and never had a problem. I do have a TT integrated with the alarm on my current car, this lets me be lazy and take the key out, get my stuff etc and then as I walk away I override the TT and turn the motor off then arm the alarm. Could count the number of times I've let it run the full 90 seconds (fixed) on one hand.

dude that sucks lucky you got to it before it did more damage though.

A cheaper option is putting an R34 GT-T cooler in. It's a side-mount like the R33 is, but the R34 cooler is thicker and flows a bit better. If you're only chasing modest power gains I'd do this, otherwise go a front mount kit.

As people have said: 1) Get on a dyno to check the AFRs. That exhaust wheel looks pretty good to my eyes (in terms of colour) but if you fiddle the boost that can change so don't change the boost unless you're on the dyno. 2) RB25 turbo is a good upgrade on an RB20, I went with the S2 turbo on my last car and the power delivery was fine. But check the turbo you've got on there as it sounds like you could have an aftermarket one already 3) RB25 turbos - S1 has a steel compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel. S2 has a nylon compressor wheel and a ceramic turbine wheel. The R34 turbos have a plastic (!!!) compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel. I picked an R33 S2 turbo as nylon is lighter than steel so should spool a bit better on an RB20.

there's no such thing as "cheap" and "good" I vote for keep looking, and keep saving. 12k won't get you a good 33, you'll end up having issues with it and spend more in maintaining the thing I guarantee. Don't worry about log books, use careful judgement to evaluate whether the cars appear to have been looked after. Neither of those cars excite me at all, but then I was more interested in spending up to $20k on a mint example (and loving it ). My car didn't have log books but a careful inspection by me and a 5 page report by State Roads pretty much guaranteed it had nothing to hide.

I'm not helping on the grounds you're a ricer (judging by your use of "aftermarket")

Yep, don't polish or wax a new paint job for at least a month. The paint needs time to cure - basically the solvents used to make the paint a liquid need to evaporate out and if you wax it you put a barrier on the paint that stops that process. On a new paint job either just wax, or use a pure polish (for example Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze) to bring out the depth of the paint more. Don't use a polish that cuts the paint

couple of unifilters? they're the only ones who seem to make filtration claims rather than outright power. unfortunately i've not seen an independent direct comparison between a unifilter and other types (paper, or apexi gauze) - although i've heard several reports of K&Ns being pretty bad for filtration.

i was impressed with mothers cleaner wax but their "just wax" wax didn't really do much for me. but really, any decent brand (megs, mothers, auto glym) will do a good job. each of those have their base model ones as well, i will now only use the pro stuff because it does a much better job.

no. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscous_LSD

RDA has a great FAQ area on their website that deals with warped rotors. There are several factors that can cause it.

I don't agree with you, if it's a GTS-t viscous LSDs are a sealed unit, the diff oil has no effect on the LSD action. If you've thrashed a viscous LSD and boiled the internal fluid then it is permanently shagged. Replace (with a 1.5 way mechanical )

you don't need an oil cooler for the street.

another tip to remember is make sure the hub and rotor surfaces are clean before you put the rotor back on. any grit, flakes of rust or any of that sort of shit between the rotor and the hub will give you runout and shudder problems in a short period of time.

meguiars stuff is a lot better than turtle wax.

the switch is one unit with a thread on the front and wires coming out the back, it goes into your gearbox like a bolt would. if you're familiar with a multimeter it should be straightforward to check the existing switch, if not then take a gamble and assume the switch is at fault

Plus 50's, Plus 50's, Plus 50's.

The bulk of the wear happens in the first 50km. It's vital that the first time the car is started it gets warmed up to operating temp and then loaded up on the dyno, so that combustion pressure can seat the rings properly. The key is load, not revs.. I would progressively load the engine up at 2500 - 4000 rpm. After that's done you can start exploring high load high revs a bit - personally I wouldn't redline a new motor but that's just me. Most of the wear will happen straight after you fire it up so 4000km is too long for your first oil change. Put mineral oil in it, drive it for 500km, then do and oil and filter change with more mineral oil and do the second service at 3-5000km. After that you can probably go to synthetics. That's just my opinion though.. I don't build motors for a living

I think without a doubt this is the most constructive advice in the thread!