Kinks

don't use any globe with a blue tint on the lens. it inevitably cuts your light output and blue light is worse for visibility because it scatters easily when it hits air/water. this creates glare. plus-50's FTW.

call your local and find out. mine stocked them. I did it in the driveway, could be done just as easily if you had axle stands. If you have to lower the gearbox you need to get under it with a jack anyway. it is a pain in the bum to get to but if I got to it in the driveway without even loosening the crossmember you can get to it without a hoist

The main concern with fuel for an engine is the octane rating (RON). Going down in octane makes the fuel burn easier, to the point where it can catch fire on its own (pre-ignition). This is extremely damaging to your engine because the fuel burns in a shock wave rather than in a controlled flame front. Skylines were designed around Jap fuel which is 100RON. 98RON is fine, going any lower will make your ECU work overtime to avoid pre-ignition (pinging). I have heard of people running regular unleaded and thrashing the balls off their car but honestly, I would not touch the car with a leper's dick. It's testament to nissan's engineering that the car still goes but mechanical sympathy says 98RON or higher.

yep, check the bulbs since they are the easiest to get to. the reverse and neutral switches are on the top of the gearbox, facing the drivers side. if you get under the back of the gearbox and look up and forwards along the drivers side of it you'll see 2 pairs of wires coming out. the reversing switch is the furthest forward (hooray! it's a bitch to get to) and they certainly wear out - my reverse lights would only come on when i held the gear lever to the left whilst in reverse. I verified that it was really my gearbox switch at fault with a multimeter before bothering to change it. you will probably have to lower the gearbox a little in order to change the switch, there's not much room to move otherwise. New switches are $50 from nissan, the plug on the end disassembles easily with a flat screwdriver leaving you 2 bare wires which will fit through a normal 19mm ring spanner. once you have the new switch in then re-assemble the switch (I don't have japanese hands either so it was fun).

makes the car too rigid. if you hit the cage with your head you're a goner. The only time a cage would be worthwhile is if you wore a helmet and had a racing seat and racing harness and were tightly strapped in. Which isn't going to happen on the street.

Yep use a mineral oil for run-in, definitely. During run-in you actually WANT the engine to wear, and grind off all the high points so it turns smoothly. After a while switch to synth so it doesn't wear out

Absolutely. When I bought my R31 I had no idea how to control a slide, not literally but if it did something unpredictable on me I would have made a meal of it for sure. After a 3 stage Aaron McGill course and a couple of Fatz Drift Days, however, I had it down pat. You need everything to be a reflex when it comes to car control, you shouldn't have to think about it because you don't have time to think about it when it matters most. I probably drove that thing sideways around the street more than I should have, but it was absolutely no effort and felt like the most natural thing in the world. It was pretty crazy in the wet, too

2 piece shaft is less likely to kill you but you're in for an interesting ride if the CV in the middle lets go!! (I thought I was going to lose a few fillings when the one in the R31 went). the 2-piece was designed for less vibration but I always saw it as an extra part that could be f**ked up... lol

Haven't heard about any difference between auto/manual before, in the skyline family. All GTS-t's come with a viscous LSD, unless they have A-LSD which is a clutch diff and active computer control. All GTRs have a mechanical rear diff (not helical, clutch packs).

raised rev cut is a dead giveaway when they leave the factory nissan put a warranty sticker over the wiring harness that plugs into the ECU, so you can tell pretty quickly if the ECU has even been unplugged before. A missing sticker doesn't necessarily mean it's been chipped but it's one of the signs..

considering the failure mode of GTRs is to suck the ceramic turbine dust back into the motor when the turbos blow, I wouldn't be fiddling the boost until I changed the turbos. It's just not worth the pain, especially since the motor has already been rebuilt

that would be seriously loud...

Exactly. I'm glad I spent my first few years driving in a Charade. Lapses in judgement are all too common when you are young and still learning and a fast car means you will get yourself into deep shit so much faster. Compare 5 seconds of accelerating in a Charade vs even a GTS-t. I remember giving it a huge fang up a steep hill in the charade and was pulled over for "driving like Fangio" - yet I topped out at about the speed limit. The same blat in a turbo car would have seen me well into "I'm keeping your licence" territory.

a 1-piece tailshaft should be easier to balance because it doesn't have an extra joint in the middle.

most commodes don't have an LSD. I was getting new tyres fitted to my R31 and a guy in an SS ute was trying to pull into the driveway, lifting his inside rear wheel and spinning hopelessly - rolling backwards despite having his foot on the loud pedal. Since my R31 had a minispool I was finding his attempts quite amusing, he had 3 or 4 goes before realising he needed a decent runup to make it onto the driveway with both rear wheels. With a single spinner it's harder to make the car step out, and that's what caused your g/f to lose control. I actually think they should restrict cars with LSDs in them as well as those with lots of power, because you don't need much power to swap ends in a RWD car with LSD. An NA MR2 with an LSD will swap ends quicker than you can shit your pants and they don't have much power at all.

^^ really.. after i had issues with my 2 piece blowing up, getting the CV replaced, having vibration issues, getting the centre bearing replaced (mech's idea), still having vibration issues, getting the tailshaft rebalanced (mech getting desperate), and having the tailshaft expert say both shafts were bent and the unis should also be replaced - and STILL HAVING VIBRATION ISSUES I gave up after a few hours rooting around with a hose clamp doing DIY balancing fixed 90% of the problem. My next step would have been a 1 piece but I sold the car and bought an R33 instead I came to the conclusion that tailshafts are a black art. After reading up on the net about balancing them and how unis should always be angled (ie tailshaft never in a completely straight line) and unis being installed out of phase with each other and so on... fark there's a lot to know and you REALLY need to know your stuff to be working on them. no. the torque on the gearbox's input shaft is transferred to its output shaft via the gears. the output shaft doesn't give a rats whether it's accelerating an exceptionally heavy tailshaft and a light car, or a light tailshaft and a heavy car. Both instances just act as a torsional force resisting the torque applied by the gearbox output shaft.

in illusive's post, just cut a bit of sheet metal to size and block it where the yellow label is. Don't worry about disconnecting any of the other stuff or plugging anything else. If you block it at the flange then no air will recirculate, no matter what the diaphragm does. Leave everything else connected so you have no air leaks, and presto.. blocked BOV and it looks stock

Any accident you walk away from is a good one. That said, it's a shame that you're financially shafted. Some lessons do get learnt the hard way - skylines are performance cars (even NA ones scrape in if you're a P plater) and they will bite if you don't know how to deal with them. You really gotta be careful with sports cars in the wet, especially if you still have the compliance tyres on them!

Noticeable improvement in cold and warm shifting, now it feels like sex. Good sex Big fan of Motul oil, which is ironic because they're French and we all know what french cars are like

Rubbish, my R31 motor had 150k kms on it and it had a hard life after landing in Aus. The guy I bought it off boosted it up and drove the pants off it, sold it to me and I continued to drive the pants off it, then put an R33 turbo on (as the old one was starting to put a bit of oil in the intake piping) and then drove the pants off it some more. The engine was religiously serviced with good (Motul) oil when I had it and the previous owner looked after it as well. There's no reason why you shouldn't get 200,000km out of a car. Yes, things will wear out and require replacement but that's every car. You might as well get some fun out of it rather than babying it - nothing is forever!

0.65 is a really small gap. the smaller your gap becomes the easier it is for your ignition system to cope with higher cylinder pressures (more boost), but the smaller the gap the less evenly it ignites the mixture. Personally I wouldn't run less than 0.8 - if i need to gap my plugs further than that it's clear i should be upgrading my ignition system instead.

the purpose of a flywheel (apart from giving the clutch a surface to push against) is to smooth out the power pulses of the engine. lightening the flywheel will increase noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) - but the engine will rev better as it doesn't have to put energy into a heavy rotating mass. a one piece tailshaft wouldn't reduce rotating mass by much, because inertial effects of mass are proportional to the distance from the axis of rotation. Because a flywheel is large diameter changing its mass will have a bigger influence. The links in a tailshaft are also designed either to improve ground clearance or to reduce vibration, so although a 1 piece will be stronger (fewer CVs/unis to break) NVH will suffer.

if your diff is chattering it's because the oil you used doesn't have the necessary friction modifiers in it for LSD use. it will wear out your diff prematurely so change the oil for something suitable for LSDs.

my series 2 has a fuel light

It works better if the coat hanger is bent into the shape of australia.