Kinks

The same symptoms will happen if the HICAS unit in the boot is unplugged. Try re-seating the connector (unplug it and plug it back in again with the car off) and see what happens. The HICAS and power steering are related so a problem with one will affect the other sometimes.

totally depends what your priorities are. your heart and head will tell you one way or the other (normally in contradiction with each other!). I came up on the choice myself, for $20k I could get a mint R33 S2, or for $24k I could get a good R32 GTR. The GTR's been a dream car for as long as I can remember but it would be a bit of a waste as a daily, insurance is more, they cost more to look after, and I'd be worried about someone nicking it. Hence I went the 33. But if I had a garage and a shitter to get to work in the choice would have gone the other way very quickly

Get a yellow one, and take care of it. at a bare minimum, hit it with a coat of wax every couple of months so you maintain a layer of protection between your paint and the environment. If you want to go all out get a proper orbital polisher and some of meguiars (or other brand) of pro polishing compounds. We did a mate's burgundy R33 a couple of weeks ago and the transformation was phenomenal. It went from "red" to "holy crap that looks like a toffee apple... just... want... to lick....."

They could well have some benefit, but remember they'll only attract ferrous metals. No substitute for regular oil and filter changes, but I guess if you're sticking a magnet on your filter you are already concerned about maintaining your car properly

Those are both redline products, and you've basically described what I'm using anyway (in terms of oil specs, ignoring brand). Busty, I don't expect much to change really, my car has done < 40k kms and the old gearbox oil was still in good condition when I drained it this arvo. Preventative maintenance, really - at least now I know it has good oil in it and I won't have to worry about it for another 3-4 years! Couldn't get the bastard diff plugs undone though, I'll need to get the car on a hoist so I can have a proper swing at it. The gearbox plugs came undone with just a ratchet

what I meant was you can only get shitty generic H3C globes. Also I found some riceboy blue ones that were absolutely abysmal in light output. Anything worthwhile, like Plus 50's that give you more light on the road where you need it, are only available in H3. Hence my comment about H3C globes fellating the big one.

Yeah, I must be getting old.. my new baby's totally standard besides a nismo rear muffler - and although I plan on doing the exhaust eventually I don't want it any louder Certainly moves alright though.. it had 33,600km on it when I bought it so it's only just been run in!

If my nose is in front of theirs I have right of way. mwahahahahaha!!

If K&N oil filters are as good as their air filters they are probably worth a look. I'll stick to my Cooper filters or failing that, the nissan OEM ones. The filter magnet is a waste of time IMO.

I just put Motul Gear300 in my box. But I had no crunching issues so there was no way I was going to touch shockproof after some of the warnings I've heard on here about using them in mint boxes. I'm still hoping the Gear300 improves the feel a bit, but the old oil was still in good nick so the difference will probably be minimal.

If you have H3C bulbs, follow this guide so you can use the more popular H3 model (which you can get Plus 50's in, etc): http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/lowbeam/lowbeam.htm There's nothing available in H3C, they suck.

If you simply pump the pedal you will suck air back in as you release it. The only way to pump fluid through is in this sequence: 1) open bleed nipple 2) push pedal 2/3 of the way to the floor (NOT all the way you can root your master cylinder seals if you do) 3) hold pedal at that point 4) close bleed nipple 5) release pedal repeat. obviously you need 1 person working the pedal and 1 person opening and closing the bleed nipple. a simple gravity bleed is much simpler you just jack the car up evenly, whack a bleed hose on and open the nipple, then wait until you see new brake fluid (you'd want it to be different colour to the old stuff). start from the corner furthest away from the master cylinder (ie the rear left) then the next closest (rear right) then left front then right front last. I would always do a gravity bleed unless there was a reason why that didn't work, or i was in a hurry and had extra help available.

are pivot bolts a known issue on GTRs as well? Make sure all the bearings get greased up nicely when the clutch goes back in. Nothing worse than having to pull it all apart to apply a little bit of grease because something's whirring or squeaking (altho with 750HP you probably won't hear it heh)

ouch, that ingested a pretty hefty chunk of something! shit eh

wow, now there's putting words into my mouth. chromies make me vomit, too. I've got standard rims on my car and I'm tempted to get them re-clearcoated to improve the finish. My last car had its wheels painted black, and it looked good. Each to their own, but 99% of the time when I see neons it makes me laugh uncontrollably.

fcuking oxygen thieves. i hope karma catches up to them and they get hit by a bus.

I run my cars as empty as I need to and never have any issues. I even ran the R31 totally dry, the engine cut out 50m out from the servo, swung it in and slammed on the brakes right outside the bowser and put 61L into a 60L tank. It took an extra turn to start because there was no fuel in the lines but after that it was A-OK. The only conceivable problem could be if your tank has water in it, but that's not terribly likely.

it's only gay if the balls touch. get neons AND LEDs, you riceboy.

ya call that drift

wheel studs hold the wheel onto the hub sideways. the protrusion in the centre of the hub is designed to slot into the wheel, centre the wheel correctly and take the load of the wheel. you will end up snapping wheel studs without proper wheel location.

rev match.

Doubt it would make a difference unless you're running mega power.

the hamster's struggling to keep up

I was just about to say the same, even though I have nowhere near as much expertise as SK.

in the pulsar I could drive for ages on the fuel light, it was really conservative. in my R33, even once the fuel light comes on it goes back off occasionally as the fuel moves around (going up hills or down hills or whatever). however, during this on/off phase i fuel-surged going around a corner so now I fill up as soon as the low fuel light comes on. not worth the risk on a turbo motor, unless you drive like a grandma with the fuel light on.