Kinks

awesome, cheers!

if you thrashed the standard viscous unit it would simply lose effectiveness and become a single-spinner. the clunking sound is the plates grabbing each other, most likely an aftermarket 2-way or something.

The main reason I wouldn't do a cannonball run in Aus is that everyone else on the road is farked. Besides that, it'd be awesome!

Still fairly keen on this but the forecast has changed - they now reckon showers on the weekend. Hopefully it clears but if it's rainy I'm going to give it a miss.

I'm now a convert for clay bars.. wow. I polished my car one weekend (Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover, #7 Glaze, and NXT Tech Wax) and I was helping a mate do his car the following weekend, and he clayed it. I was amazed at how much crap it picked up off his car so I washed my car and clayed it with the car wash still on it. Picked up a LOT of stuff, and the paint was way smoother. Going to have to attack mine with a harder cut to get the swirls out though.. looks like Nissan paint is pretty tough.

I wish more people would be fined for driving with fog lights on. Also those ridiculously bright rear fog lights that blind you when you're behind someone at the lights. f**king hate them ALL. The fod lights on a S2 do shit all for forward illumination unless there is fog and you are doing 20km/h. In clear weather and higher speeds they are hopeless compared with the normal headlights.

yup. Motul's book recommends Gear 300 for the gearbox and PA90 for the diff - however I think that's only because some R33s came with ALSD which is a clutch type LSD. Gear 300 would not be suitable for those. I am about to put Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff, I ordered 6L just to be sure. If 5L isn't enough it'll only be by a fraction, you'd get away with using a little bit of your old oil to top it up I'm sure. Common knowledge seems to differ on exactly what the capacity of gearbox + diff are!

brilliant!

talk to enough people and you'll find a recommendation for every product on the market. even turtle wax.

A 2-way won't be as bad as a locker, but around tight corners and parking it'll still let you know about it. I haven't driven a 2-way but by the sounds of things it's largely impractical for the street. I had a mini-spool in my last car, and although the ability to get sideways was awesome if you're at all serious about decent handling you'd be silly to get one. Off-throttle it understeers and on-throttle it oversteers, you need a delicate balancing act to go around a corner quickly. Which is fun in itself, but requires a lot of concentration because if you overcook a corner your first instinct is to brake, which makes you understeer more.

LOL. nice!

the parkers are really well buried. to get to the drivers side you WILL have to remove the washer bottle, loosen the fusebox so you can remove the overflow bottle, and then get your hands in there. gynecologists can do this without removing the washer bottle. i can't. Even then, you can unplug the wiring but I couldn't get enough leverage on the parker socket to unlock it (it twists anticlockwise). A brainwave presented itself when i spotted my needlenose pliers, and they work like a dream. Don't cut yourself to ribbons, use the pliers. one end on each corner of the socket and twist gently, it'll pop right out. Use the pliers to lock them in again when you've changed the bulb. Also, my plugs had all this white gunky shit in them which was making the contact iffy, and the parkers would cut in and out. i hit them with an air duster followed by a shitload of electronic cleaning solvent, which blew some of the gunk out. after that they work perfectly. if you can do your parkers the H1s should be a piece of piss!

i'm going with this answer. i believe passenger airbags were an option too - is this type M or not? too confusing! who cares!

After the weekend's efforts failed to remove half my swirl marks it looks like skyline paint in good nick is pretty damn tough.. I'm going to have to attack it with the buffer next time still, it feels good with a fresh coat of wax

Haven't heard of anyone rebuilding a viscous LSD. The LSD unit is hermetically sealed so you probably have to cut it to get it open. And nobody would bother rebuilding one they all go to clutch LSDs if you want proper LSD action. You'd be better off finding someone with a second hand GTR diff in good condition, it will probably be more compliant than an aftermarket diff. It'll probably cost the same tho Read this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

Trying to hide scratches with polish is a waste of time. You need an abrasive 'cut' to take the scratches out. Cutting either requires a lot of elbow grease or an orbital polisher. I will be using Swirl Remover (which is a very light cut) on my car tomorrow, hopefully that will be enough. When using any abrasive you should use the lightest cut first and only go up to heavier levels if you need to.

My R31 had this.. I do miss it (the turning light, that is, not the car)

I don't think there is a difference, there are so many slight differences and options just buy a car on face value and forget using "M-Spec" as a wank job. I've heard that M-Spec is body kit and ABS, or something like that. My car has ABS and no body kit - so is that half M-spec? who cares! I have ABS and I don't scrape the shit out of every driveway i go up. Good enough for me!

the ferry is the best part my standard height car should have no problems

thermostat stops the water circulating through the radiator until the engine is up to temp. running around on a cold engine will chew more fuel, and it's also not good for it!

yeah that was one thing I always knew with my R31 - if I put my foot down in the wet I was going sideways and going sideways NOW good times

GTRs aren't lemons they just cost a lot to fix. They're more complicated than the GTS-t. Mods cost more too. They basically cost more in general, I have always loved the 32 GTR and it was a shame to pass up on the idea and get a 33 GTS-t. But the 33 is much more suitable as a daily driver, for me.

A laptop also has a storage method involving a magnetic head whizzing a few millionths of an inch above a rotating platter. What happens when you hit a couple of solid bumps... your car dies? great! time to call a tow truck. What interface method do you plan to use between your "laptop ECU" and all the engine sensors? It's going to cost you more than an aftermarket ECU to make. And it'll be shit. Unless you write your own real-time operating system. Things like injector pulses can't be delayed because windows feels like paging something out to the disk first.

yep, have heard of this being done. I don't think I have the patience myself siks: yes, NXT will give you a good relatively durable finish. You can get ultimate gloss and depth with a pure carnauba wax but it probably won't last as long. I just bought Tech Wax to do my car on saturday (in conjunction with #9 swirl remover and #7 glaze)

White, Light Grey, whatever... you're talking about the same beast. (I would have called it Grey myself )