Kinks

Only downside to KAAZ LSDs (from what I've heard) is you have to put up with 1500km of chattering on slow corners. Once they're worn in people seem to love them.

all other things being equal, yes. I ran Motul 8100 5W40 in my R31 and it was great. Haven't had to change the oil in the 33 yet I think they put some castrol shit in there (still synthetic, but I'm not a fan of castrol oils)

most likely.

The one or two reports that said DON'T USE IT WITH A MINT GEARBOX are enough to put me off. I'll use Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff instead, I reckon. I'll start using Shockproof when my synchros wear out

Hopefully somewhere else, they smell

Was good to meet some of you, even though my arrival was not anticipated And catch up with Chris (weevil) as well, haven't seen him in aaaages!

what oil are you using in it now?

bearing clearances opening up, things settling in over a few heat cycles, any microscopic high points on bearings/cams/rings being worn smooth, etc.. new engines are supposed to be pretty tight, forcing them to make a lot of power straight up seems a bit mean but most of the above is probably done in the first 50km, after that it makes less and less difference!

LOL

Hence the 'If' - if I just paid several grand for a new engine I'd be babying it!! If I earnt enough that I didn't care if it popped again yeah I'd give it arseholes out of the box

Yes, take your time. When I first auditioned speakers for my Charade I went to about 4 or 5 car audio places.. listened to everything with the same couple of CDs, and then gradually the right choice pointed itself out to me (Boston Acoustics splits). The only thing I will say is f**k Sony Xplod in the ear. They are woeful. I'm an audio snob though, when people say "you won't do better than Pioneer" (or Alpine, or whatever) I do my best not to laugh at them.

gas shocks don't need pumping up, they are supposed to be a sealed unit. maybe they are simply set too stiff, so when you hit the bump rather than the shocks absorbing it they pushed the car up into the air, and then the back wheels came down hard. even in totally stock form the back end feels quite lively, so with stiffer shocks i'm sure it would be a problem!

Hell, if the builder will warranty the engine on the "run it in hard and it'll go hard" theory then why not. Any failure goes back on him! If I was wearing the risk myself though, I'd take it easy at first and gradually get into it after a few clicks. That way at least you have some recourse that you didn't even flog it and it died, so it can't be your fault.

Have you got a comparison of Apexi panel filter vs standard paper filter available? I'd be interested to see one!

depends on the size of the tread blocks, large square-on tread blocks are noisy while blocks that are tapered and smaller are less noisy. silica definitely helps wet grip and longetivity, it might help noise as well!

Depending on which ones, how you mount them and how you power them. Their yellow kevlar ones always seemed a bit cheap and nasty to me, as well as any of the other car range. That said, I did use response 6x9s in my charade and they were quite good. When I did the stereo in the pulsar I used the carbon fibre 6.5" woofer and found them to be quite agreeable with plenty of midbass. I had them powered off a 4x100W response amp and my ears cried "enough" before they started distorting.

nope, just how they are designed. mum's accord has high beams that come on in addition to the lows remaining on. depending on how the headlights are designed there's little to be gained by having both sets on at once.

I was going to post this if nobody else had, glad to see it appeared on page 1. I'm never buying an HKS filter based on that, talk about woeful. I'm wondering how Unifilter compares as they make some pretty impressive filtration claims on their website (rather than going for peak power - that's easy just don't run a filter!). Apexi's "lifetime use" basically means take it off every now and then and tap the dirt off it. Eventually you will want to replace it though, probably every couple of years when it starts looking ratty. I'll be sticking with the standard airbox in my car.. probably standard paper filter too they aren't restrictive when they're clean so I'll just change it regularly!!

I saw an MX5 with an HID conversion and his lights needed to be lower, I was in front and in the next lane over and his lights were extremely irritating.

Yep, relaying is also a good trick. I haven't measured my lights but if I put Plus 50's in and they're still not bright enough I'll look into it. I'm still running the factory original globes AFAIK (and my headlights could use a polish!).

commonly 'xenon' just means a halogen bulb with xenon filler gas rather than another noble like argon. xenon lets them wind the filament tighter and produce a brighter, whiter light for the same wattage. An HID conversion is upwards of $1k, so legal issues aside it's out of the price range of most people. word like a motherf**ker. ANY bulb which is blue tinted MUST cut light transmission. I've only tried 1 brand of "cool white" globes and the lighting quality was abysmal. Yes it was "cool blue" but it was also about 1/3 as useful as a regular globe. I ripped them out and put Plus 50's in, WAY better. Anyone who uses blue tinted headlight globes is a fool. Tinted parkers so that they match the colour of your headlights is one thing but for safe forward illumination you'd have to have rocks in your head to go backwards in light intensity.

Ah yes, right you are.. I wasn't thinking about it enough

leave the stock BOV on there permanently.

I presume that the windows going up on lock is part of an alarm - had you walked off and armed your alarm the thing would have been going off its tit if someone tried to break in. That's why I'm not bothering to disable my unlock button. It's got an alarm, if they still want in then they can always use a brick. I know which method I'd rather they use!

yes it's normal to have that happen.