Kinks

I would have thought you'd be better doing an engine flush? Then again some people say they're great other people say it f**ked their engine and their gaskets leak like a sieve

I'll preface this by saying I've not driven a HICAS-equipped car on the track and every post I read seems to have a different opinion of how it works, but if the HICAS is acting to help turnin (ie opposite turn to front wheels, oversteer) I can see how the tank-slapper happens. If it's acting to create understeer (same direction as front wheels) this should actually help pull the car out of a slide. I've heard claims of R32 GTRs basically throwing people into the sand trap because of HICAS, so maybe what you're saying about the 32GTR being more rear dominant is true (yet, it MUST be quicker.. otherwise why would they do it that way?). Which leaves me with my S2 GTS-t, I think I'll be leaving HICAS alone if it makes the car feel more stable when you're doing "80%" driving.. because I'm sure as shit not going harder than that on the road!!

Wrong. A turbo wastegate operates on relative, not absolute, pressure. 10psi boost is 10psi above atmospheric. If your atmospheric pressure drops so does the absolute pressure you are stuffing into the engine, hence power will drop in proportion. discopotato's comment about 2-stage compressors is correct - they ran a "high boost" level at altitude, to compensate for the reduced air pressure. Running high boost at sea level would have blown up the engine.

if they're those ones that have a blue coating on the lens then they probably overheated because the blue coating blocks light and turns it into heat, rather than radiating 99.9% of the light as a conventional clear-glass globe would do. get a set of narva plus 50's and forget about all that cool white, HID look-alike crap!

watching with interest

Plain bearing turbos have a thrust washer/plate (been a while since I researched it, can't remember). In short, OEM turbos have a partial disc (ie the thrust bearing goes 2/3 of the way around the turbo shaft). Aftermarket bearings go all the way around, this provides more resilience when power levels are raised. This is why when you simply 'highflow' a turbo for more power but don't replace the bearing, you run a higher risk of failure.

This is the reason why you'd run a colder thermostat - if you need more flow at operating temp to keep the temps from rising further. Thermostats don't open like an on/off they are a mechanical device so they operate gradually. In most cases you shouldn't need one. There's nothing to be gained by running a colder thermostat on the street.

I think that car had aspirations to be one of the fighter planes in the background certainly an interesting innovation that one!

dear god, even the top of the line honda has that f**king annoying door beep when your keys are still in the ignition.

fark, what a race.. that was action-packed! word. He definitely deserves a win. 100+ starts, he was overdue. Yeah I was hoping to see the championship close up as well. But the Schu dealt his own hand this race he only had himself to blame.

I don't know if really standard, tidy cars will become more popular as they get older but having a car that drives as Nissan intended really makes me appreciate how nice a balance they've gone for. Why you would want to put a loud exhaust on it, lowered on rock-hard coilovers, body kit, dicky stereo with bright flashing lights etc... is beyond me. They're a beautiful drive to begin with! When I get the money to put a stereo in mine I want it to look like an OEM head unit.

I've got one too

In that case you have an easy complete circuit though.. The zinc and iron block are your two electrodes and the coolant is the electrolyte. The only electrolyte I can see with this "rust stop" thing is rainwater.. which would do a marginal job at best even if the car (and zinc rust stop device) was covered in a film of water (which it wouldn't be).

R31s are solid cars, the only downside if money is tight will be petrol costs

congrats mate good idea to buy them stock, you know it hasn't been molested by someone. Also gives you a better chance of getting a good life out of the engine rather than buying something pre-flogged. That's why I went for a standard car this time around - and RB25s have plenty of go even when stock

oil I can believe, because it's part of the mechanics of the engine and new, slippery oil should give less NVH than old crusty shit. But why it would drive better after a polish I have no idea

Well, I'm reasonably confident the radiator has never been out of my car, for example.. judging by the lack of marks on the bolts it looks like it's never been touched with a socket or spanner. But peace of mind is cheap insurance.. So I am keen to do it when I recover from the purchase cost

sure thing.. give me a yell when you're planning to do it

What if you've bought a low-km car (like sub-40k) and you're satisfied that the odometer reading is genuine? I'm planning on replacing the timing belt in the not too distant future (probably don't have to worry about it while it's still under the 3 month dealer warranty anyway ) but curious about peoples' opinions.

Continuing to put 90% of your income into a depreciating asset is silly. So is saving every penny and investing it until you're too old to enjoy the benefits. I believe you should save some of your money and spend the rest of it.

that's along the lines of what I was thinking already.. thanks all is spray-on deadener worth it or is it a complete waste of time compared with the stick-on stuff?

hahaha.. that's what my R31 was like. You could even give it a polish and it would drive like a new car for 2 days. I think it was just my mind playing tricks on me

I've heard stories go either way - some people say spitfires are the same others say they're a heap better!

looks pretty clean to me, the proof will be seeing it in the flesh, having a close look over it and getting a thorough inspection done by someone you trust.

either that or buy new coils Edit - should note that I just gapped my plugs in the 31 down to 0.8 - not worth a full set of coils when gapping is that much cheaper!!