Kinks

I'm keen to hear any thoughts people have on how to get the best quality sound in the front of an R33. I'm keen on maintaining a standard appearance, so no kick panels etc. Will be putting the midwoofers in the standard door location (although if there's a good way to mount them so they don't get muffled by the door trim i'm all ears) and the tweeters can go anywhere unobtrusive. If anyone has pics of their front speaker installations I'd love some ideas!!

Huh?

^^ that'll be great when the insulation is damaged and gives someone an electric shock one day!!

they break because the inline-6 manifold is long, and has a turbo hanging off it. the weight and flexing from repeated heat cycling gradually fatigues the studs. I had at least 3 snapped studs when I pulled the manifold off my R31 (was upgrading the turbo and figured I should do the studs while it was apart). I didn't suffer from any exhaust leaks either.

as large as your ignition system will support. a small spark doesn't set fire to the mixture as efficiently as a big spark. Therefore you should stick with 1.1mm where possible. however, if your spark gets blown out by running higher boost then you will have to either gap it down or improve your ignition system. guess which method's cheaper!!

viscous LSDs don't require friction-modifiers like clutch-plate LSDs, so gear 300 will be fine.

I read this as "I think he's scared he'll end up in a decent team"

as above, pay close consideration to the overall quality of the car. There's a FAQ on buying a skyline and what to look for, read it. I recently bought a 40th anniversary myself and it only had 33,xxxkm on the clock. After looking over it myself for signs of wear (general condition of engine bay, underbody mechanicals, and interior wear esp seat, steering wheel, gear knob, indicator stalks) I was satisfied the k's were genuine. A thorough inspection by State Roads also indicated that the condition was consistent with odometer reading. The dash in the car you're looking at could have been apart to fit an alarm, or stereo (the R33 has one huge trim piece that wraps right around the instrument panel). Maybe it just hasn't been clipped back on properly.

Wow, people are getting ripped the hell off. A small auxiliary battery would shit all over a capacitor for energy storage. The pulse current of a cap might be a bit higher but if you're drawing that much current you won't have much hearing left soon.

+1 mine's doing this too, I haven't had the time to get a new one from nissan and fix it. A friend tells me the gearbox is too close to the underbody to get the reversing plug all the way out, if that's the case you'll have to undo the gearbox crossmember bolts and push the gearbox to the side when unscrewing the reversing switch.

Not sure what the 33 box is like but on the 32 box the reversing switch is the same height as the fill plug. I couldn't get my fill plug undone so I took the reversing switch out and used that hole to fill it instead

From what I hear, everything's an engine-out job on a GTR It would be a lot easier to do it with the engine out, that's for sure. There's a lot of piping involved.

if you're lucky, that exhaust port will still seal and there will be no change. otherwise yes, of course.. you will get an exhaust leak which means there is less gas available to drive the turbo and your car won't boost as quickly.

probably looks something like this

R34 intercooler is supposed to be a good mod for mild power increases as it's thicker than the R33 item. As for legality, you'd run into more problems with the pod than the R34 IC - you can't pick it as different from stock. A pod will suck hot air in anyway, get a heat shield.

watching with interest.. I also want an aftermarket system that is barely noisier than stock.

Don't bother, it drastically reduces your visibility to other drivers.

assuming you know how to build the kit reliably (ie not overheating sensitive components or forming poor solder joints) and you're careful when trying it out for the first time it should be sweet. The main point of failure would probably be the solenoid. Should be a fairly low risk, I guess if you're paranoid you can always buy a brand new one that's guaranteed to last longer than you will

Looks like a very interesting kit, and SK's comments are really helpful as always. You run a slight risk by using a serial boost controller in that a failure of any component means your boost will spike drastically because no pressure is reaching the wastegate. The tradeoff is that the spool behaviour is superior to a parallel bleed type.

I think there was someone who made an LCD display that got consult information and displayed temperatures and injector duty cycle.. can't find the thread for the life of me

wax and grease remover.. http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/content.php?contentID=19

I've heard stock R33 turbos are good for about 170rwkw. Any more and you sacrifice longevity at a rapid rate. A high flow will always be a compromise for more power by losing bottom end response. You're modifying an existing design. You will get the best of both worlds by going for a new turbo - turbine technology is continuously evolving. I have a friend with a GT-RS turbo and loving it.. he wanted good midrange and response for track work so it's not laggy.. didn't care about outright power. Turns out he's making 270rwkw anyway hahahaha.

An engine with high specific power won't last as long as a lazy old 4L donk making half the power it rightfully should. It's a simple case of the candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long. There are very few well maintained skylines running STOCK power levels. Most people boost them and they wear out faster, simple as that.

The lights on R33 S2's are not driving lights, they're only good as fog lights. Not sure what they're like on the S1 I haven't driven one at night. If you used one in an emergency I wouldn't recommend doing more than 20-40km/h because you can't see further than that. R33 headlight connectors are filled with a weird whitish goop, which seems to dry over time. Heaps of people complain about intermittent headlights which start working if you whack them with your hand - this is just a poor connection issue. When I replaced my parking lights I had the same problem, wiggling the wire slightly would make the light go on and off. I sprayed the shit out of the socket with an air duster and a bunch of crud fell out. Then I sprayed the socket and the plug with electronic contact cleaner and slapped it together and couldn't make it play up. So your globe is probably fine just the plug isn't making good contact.

can't hear any air leak at idle, and it has never missed. cat was fitted by the compliance workshop so I'd assume it is fully intact