Kinks

I was only aware of R33s coming with either the standard viscous LSD or an active LSD (you will have an ALSD dash light in the middle of your tacho if this is the case). If it's anything else I'd assume it has been changed for something aftermarket.

In a nutshell: Pro - less give in your suspension/steering, tighter adherance to alignment settings under dynamic load, more precise feedback and car control. Con - less give in your suspension/steering, less comfortable ride.

No. The PFC uses airflow to calculate fueling anyway, if you're running a larger engine it will inject more fuel. However it will probably run rich as shit because on an RB20 pulling that much air at those revs would be very high load, so you will wash your bores down. Adding 30% more fuel will make the problem worse. You've just spent a few grand rebuilding an engine, spend a few hundred bucks getting it put on the dyno, they can start it and get a base tune going and do a few ramps up to 75% redline at a few pounds of boost like rob82 said. You should always run an engine in a proper state of tune. Anything else is just brainless.

Ditto, that's exactly what I was about to write. Patient, listens to you, finds out what you want and at no stage did he try and sell me the car. He was happy to give me as long as I wanted to look at it on my own, and take it for a drive and just let the car speak for itself. It wasn't quite what I was looking for, but if he did get what I wanted I would have bought it from him in a heartbeat.

You have to push the red hexagonal STOP button for it to actually stop your car from rusting. It will stop your car from rusting as long as you are pushing the button. You cannot use tape to hold the button down. Seriously though, if it was going to reduce rusting by applied voltage you need a complete circuit. Since the body of the car is connected to the battery negative, you need another surface for the positive side. This has to be connected by an electrolyte (assuming rain, in this case). So what's the missing surface?

The light is definitely not a shift light, nor is it traction control. It seems to be suspension related (maybe as a warning that the car is unbalanced). crazy stuff though.

just found it interesting that a completely stock car would pop like that. I don't mind it, sounds kinda cool If you're running an atmo BOV I would expect it to happen.

Seems to be a specific trait of my car, i will get quite a loud pop out of the exhaust after coming off the throttle sometimes. Seems to do it more if I've been on the gas a bit (more heat in the system to ignite leftover gas). Car is completely stock apart from a replacement rear muffler.

Excellent.. From reading his posts SK really knows his stuff, I'm sure he'll appreciate the feedback Now I also know who to ask when I get serious about my car's handling

touching the limiter occasionally shouldn't hurt the car. bouncing off it is bad, because your engine's cycling from 0% to 100% power rapidly. most cars reach their power peak before redline, so you're wasting your time trying to get that last 300rpm out of the motor. my charade was different, torque curve completely flat to the 7500 limiter so I may have hit it a few times during its lifetime

Would be a lot easier on a hoist.. you can't get decent leverage with the car on ramps/axle stands. I remember trying to change the pulsar's gearbox oil and I even jacked up the end of the ratchet until it was just twisting the engine on its mounts.. nothing. gave up and let the mech do it and it took him 3 big goes at it with a breaker bar to get it undone.

hahaha awesome mate..

I would not go any hotter than standard. It's a band-aid fix I'd address the cause of the problem. clogged/leaky injector? dirty AFM? do some diag and see if anything else is amiss.

Said fiddles were the cause of a poo-brown VW beetle making 275rwkw at a particular workshop's dyno day

yes, trying to get away with adding a turbo to an already LOOK AT ME!! car is asking for trouble.

if it's crunching that badly into 2nd then the synchro is gone, cactus. redline oils may be fantastic but they're not miracle workers. if the box is shagged no oil in the world will rejuvenate it.

In bold is the key to your wear issue. When you lower skylines the camber increases, the tyre tilts over so it's resting on the inside more. It's not caused by a dodgy alignment or hicas, it's caused by having the thing on its bump stops Wow, if you have a second to burn can you imagine how much speed you could wash off rather than playing with your headlights?

A 1.5 way diff might be a better option for you then. Locks under power but only half-locks off power so you will still be able to turn tight corners without it being harsh and attracting attention.

The good Dunlop FM901s - great tyre, shame you can't get them any more Dunlop FM702s - supposedly almost as good Bridgestone GIIIs - gripped well wet and dry, was happy with them Yokie A539s - good grip, but bloody soft. Wore out quickly The bad Kumho 712s - gripped ok wet and dry but they felt cheap to drive on Nexen whatevers - compliance tyre.. reasonable grip in the dry but limits are easily reached in the wet The ugly Falken 326s - deathtrap. dry grip is OK but wet grip is shockingly bad.

yeah that's a pretty rough power curve. can see his mods to the AFRs were decent but the power is still quite ordinary. Time to go for a full ECU, rather than a piggyback. If that is a full ECU then get a better tuner.

cat converters should not be overly restrictive if they are properly sized and in good condition. if you want more power and you've already got a high flow cat (and not the type you make with a broomstick either) then pursue other options.

mine does exactly this.. i think it's just below 6 at idle and when i'm doing ~2500rpm it is just above 6. but the other readings are spot on.

I disagree. Ran Mobil 1 in the pulsar and it went off very quickly, and before the service interval. It went from the high mark and light brown to the low mark and dark brown in the space of 2 weeks and an old pac run. My service interval was 5000km which should be very very conservative on a stock SSS. Motul 8100 never used a drop on my RB20 over 5000km and came out still looking great. I dislike oils that go off that quickly. Castrol Synth-R was also low on the dipstick after only 4000km on my RB20. Stick with the Motul 8100. You can't go wrong.

Yep, R31 had a minispool in it and it was VERY predictable. Was so easy to get the thing sideways and bring it back without shitting yourself. The main thing to be aware of is in the wet, you will have terrible grip because the rears are trying to break. That said I had Falken 326's on the rear which probably wasn't helping my cause any!