Kinks

I found with the locker in my old car that it was actually very stable as soon as you lifted - settled right down. However, being off-throttle left you with a bunch of understeer so if you over cooked it into a corner you put yourself in a substantial pickle. That depends on your tyres though, if you have little rear grip then yes I can see it swapping ends. It certainly only took a small lift to get my car sideways when it was running 14" pintara rims on a drift day.. LOL.

300V is great oil but probably overkill on a street car (others would beg to differ ) 4100 is only a semi-synthetic, which means it's about 15% synthetic and 85% dino juice. I would go for the Motul 8100 5W-40 myself, either that or the 300V and do an oil analysis at 5000km to find out what it's like. You would probably find the 300V will last for extended oil change intervals if you're not being hard on it (track work).

yup.. cold weather makes the oil more viscous and raises your oil pressure on startup.

The softest setting will be a sporty but not jarring ride. The adjustability of Konis is chiefly there to allow for stiff springs and shock longetivity. If you want to make a guess at it, wind them up a turn or 2 from their softest setting. But don't go far - otherwise your ride quality WILL suffer.

looks bloody impressive mate, well done!

standard nissan filter will do the job great. I use Cooper filters that the local parts store keeps in stock. I once read a comparison of "3rd party" filter brands that the Cooper filter did a bloody good job. See here: http://www.aus-cartalk.com/auspoc/techstuff.htm Remember that the manufacturer filters are usually just other brands with the car maker's name stamped on it instead. So you're relying on your car manufacturer to specify a filter that does a satisfactory job (comes down to a trust thing really!).

Motul 8100 5W40 is brilliant oil for a street engine. My car ran like a swiss watch on it. If I was doing serious track duties I would go for 10W60 or similar, so it didn't break down under stress.

compressing air will always heat it up. Therefore for anything over low-boost you NEED an intercooler or your charge temps and hence power will suffer drastically. whether you go for turbo or supercharging depends on the character of the engine, availability of parts and your budget. It also depends on what you want out of forced induction, supercharging has the benefit of instant boost availability. I would go for an intercooled centrifugal supercharger on an RB20. A positive displacement blower would help low down torque as the RB20 is somewhat lacking, but it will limit your top end and this is where the RB engines are efficient. Given the availability and (relative) low cost of turbo parts I would stick with them, but that's because I'm lazy. A blown RB would sound awesome

Yup. I used to use Motul 8100 exclusively until my local store discontinued it. I tried some Castrol Synth-R they had instead. Used to change the Motul every 5000km and only ever lost a few ml, probably about as much as it took to fill the oil filter! The Castrol was low on the dipstick at 4000km. Some difference. Won't be using Castrol again.

I've seen exotics running rich on occasion too. gotta burn fuel to make power, stoichiometric is 14.7:1 so even at 12:1 you are putting more fuel in than can be completely burnt. unless it's excessively rich i would not worry.

I generally find that if you are polite to cops and are honest and humble (not to the point of digging your own grave tho!) you get off lightly. If you give them any lip or claim you were doing 40 when you were doing 120 then you're gone. Cops aren't idiots, and they have a really tough job to do (back when they used analog UHF I used to listen to them on occasion and it's a shit job sometimes). You will get an absolute c*#@ occasionally but most of them will give you a fair go if you don't antagonise them.

wow, that car looks beautiful. nice colour & v.good condition, like the wheels too. I imagine traction is an issue good luck with the sale!

I've found that Mobil and Castrol tend to go "used" prematurely - you start burning oil after 3000km because it's worn out. Motul 8100 is brilliant stuff and always lasted me 5000km without using oil. Also, 10w60 is too thick for street use IMO.

hey Dan! Long time no speak Car looks awesome, good to see you're still having heaps of fun in it (sold my R31, new car pending when I find a nice one! Going to stay in the family of course!)

R31s make great drifters. If you want the ultimate in driveline strength put a minispool and a 1-piece tailshaft in. The axles are bloody strong, I drove a locked diff daily for almost 3 years and never had a problem (includes tight parking etc). Drifting is nowhere near as harsh as tight corners for a locker. RB26 in an R31 would make LOTS of smoke

I've used Jaycar's electronic cleaning solvent with no ill-effects. Cold start seems to be noticeably better after cleaning.

waste of money, unless you're serious about your racing.

I put a GFB basic on my car for a few weeks and although I liked the smoother gear changes and didn't mind the sound at first, it ended up grating on me and I removed it. Compressor surge is so much more tolerable than going whoosh every time you back off a bit.

good luck with the sale Dino! Gunmetal > *

yeah, it's been done a number of times. searching this forum or r31skylineclub.com will net you plenty of info i'm sure. you could just skip the hassle and buy my car though

some nice pics there.. mmm 31's drifting

I start mine and let it idle for a couple of minutes if possible.. mainly because it drives like a pig on cold start about 50% of the time. But if i'm rushed I start it, wait 30 seconds then drive. Either way I stay under 3000rpm and don't boost it until it's warm. It's a waste of time to idle the car up to temperature though.. the prolonged operation at low temperature and low oil pressure wouldn't be good for it. Also, if you idle it then the engine eventually warms up but your transmission is still stone cold so caning off after that will hurt your gearbox/diff. 30seconds idling + driving moderately is the best way to warm up a car IMO.

so many skylines.. I was at the back of the pack, seeing a 3 lane road full of round tail lights made me happy in pants. good cruise, i passed on the palm beach bit but was excellent behaviour by all as far as newport. I don't think I've ever seen such a large group drive so sensibly! nicely organised nick

Apparently if you're more than two suburbs away from your house you're automatically up to no good... You get the odd copper on a trip, same as anywhere. But the majority of them are very reasonable, I've never known an SAU cruise to have any real drama. Some of the coppers know that this group cruises up that way occasionally and since nobody has misbehaved in the past they are pretty relaxed about it. Like Nick says, if we do see them they normally just ask us not to hang around for ages and make noise (as residents will complain). I think the worst I've seen is that they ask us to move along and then wait until we're all gone. Big deal, you just leave quietly and cruise back down the peninsula. For the record, I'm interested. Will see how I feel tomorrow afternoon though, been very short on sleep this week.

it'll reduce the wear rate of a gearbox, and perform better under high load, but oil won't hold together pieces of metal no... if you're trying to put way too much torque through a gearbox it'll let go no matter what oil you use.