Kinks

Refuelling and free tyre choice.. that is good. Let's bring back more common sense..... Currently F1 has too many rules, and is so restrictive. Then they try and manufacture a show that is fake and boring. Prime example: DRS just makes passing a done deal. It's boring. Movable aero should get thrown out, or let everyone do it all of the time (ie to defend as well as pass). You can fiddle with the levels all you like but at the end of the day it's a band-aid that gives the guy behind an advantage that is decided by a committee. It's not 2 guys on a track with the same equipment dueling it out. I recently watched the 2006 Hungarian race and it was epic. The cars with their beautiful V10s howled, the wings were low and wide, tyres gripped. Yeah, they had traction control (not a fan).. and some time around then grooved tyres came in which was a bit silly.. but the show wasn't as farcical as it is now. I don't even bother watching highlights. Who cares. Drivers aren't racing each other flat out, they are just playing a car management game. I feel really genuinely sorry for those who have taken their whole lives and worked their way through the ranks to be fed this horse shit formula.

Hm google reckons that app is malware, interesting. think i'll give it a miss just in case

Those are great samples, thanks Trent. Sounds like very heavy det too, nasty. Would be interesting to hear varying levels of knock starting with very mild.. eg start from knock-free baseline and then adding 2 degrees in timing every 5 seconds and then train yourself to listen for light knocking as well.

even helmets are hard to spot sometimes, the drivers are pretty well buried in the car. the red bull drivers have very similar helmets too. they should mandate highly visible driver numbers in a couple of consistent places on the car - eg the bottom of the rear wing end fences, and maybe something visible from the front.

S1 manual R34 GTT here. Definitely viscous LSD

You already have too many choices and you want MORE opinions??? Lol. Sorry mate. Opinions are like arseholes, everyone's got one. The signal to noise isn't going to be any better if you ask the same old question again. Honestly, do your research. Form your own opinion, and go with it. The decision will be yours, it will be based on the information available and you can justify the choice to yourself. And it will be a better decision than "some random dude on the internet said it was good" because you know what you want and you put the thought into it yourself. I can't count how many times I've spent 5 hours trawling forums for info. It happens. When it gets a bit much, make a spreadsheet of the important factors to you. Or there's another tactic, Say you have 4 items to choose from. Pick two at random and pick the better one out of those two. Don't hesitate, just pick one. Right. Now look at the other two. Pick one. The two winners - put them together. Pick one. That's your final choice. Once you've done all the research you just need to trust your gut instinct.

Ugh. I miss my autowatch.

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

start your alignment at zero toe (front and back) and tweak it from there. personally, I can't stand toe in at the rear. I find it stunts the lively rear end that the skyline has, it tries to tame it and make it stable and you either end up with something that is stable, or is substantially sideways. there is no finesse or middle ground and I think rear toe in makes it more skittish (at the limit - if you are below the limit it is more stable). a tiny bit of toe out at the rear brings it to life and it's fun to drive.

I HATE toe-in at the rear HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE it!!!! I used to align my R33 "zero zero" front and rear toe and it always drove really nicely. I did this over several alignments. I then went to a place that toed in 2mm at the rear (1mm each side) and he said "you won't even notice it" - well it killed the handling of the car. It became very benign, a safe option for those who don't realise that their right foot can induce oversteer, but it was GOD DAMN BORING to drive. I feel like it became more skittish on the limit because the rear desperately wanted to grip and you had to poke at it to get it to move... but then it wanted to tuck in again. This led to an "all or nothing" personality where you either got it right out or it just stayed in. Not very enjoyable. My R34 workshop manual says front toe is 0 to IN 2mm. Rear toe is 0 to OUT 5.2mm (yep, toe OUT 5.2mm!!). Wow!! I have had my R34 toed out 2mm at the rear and front is 0 toe. Drives really well, corners well. Love it. Also, both of my cars had/have functional HICAS. At high speed HICAS drives the rear wheels in phase with the front steering to promote understeer. You need some initial toe out to help it turn in. And then don't drive like a dickhead and you'll be fine. I should also note I've done a number of track days and Texi's so I am familiar with how skylines handle. If you're on your first one then just get it toed in, it'll be safer. I can't stand it though.

By the time you factor in a tune, Nistune doesn't save you much. Power FC is ancient, does the job but it's an ooooold design. I bought an Adaptronic and they are very impressive for the price. You can do a ton of corrections on them including knock retard and power cut if the mixture is leaner than target (if your fuel pump is dying this could save your motor!! PFC will just flash the check engine light while your motor rattles itself to death). However, the Haltech is a tempting choice now as it has 6 ignition/injection drivers enough to run the engine in full sequential mode. Adaptronic Select has 4 drivers which means your injectors and coilpacks get driven in pairs (wasted spark and semi sequential injection). Works fine but not *quite* as elegant. I heard Adaptronic are working on another model so keep your eyes open in case that rumour is true.

My stockish R33 did 9.3L/100km on the freeway. I made it 598km on a tank before I chickened out and filled up (56 litres), the only reason being I was between country towns and I wasn't sure if I'd make the next one on what I had left. Last 2 tanks on the R34 with Adaptronic I think I averaged 11L/100km driving over the blue mountains and back, and some mixed city driving. That's not too bad, especially considering the elevation change. Before that it was around 14L/100km around town, pretty bad.. but I think I am "driving around" a droney exhaust which makes me boot it to get through the droney point and then sit in a lower gear doing higher RPMs that are not fuel efficient.

oh right, thanks. I got my times mixed up. espn had it listed as "1800 local" and I somehow figured that meant 6pm sydney time. what a maroon! both espn and formula1.com have buried the race times on this year's site revamps. they've both gone to a f**king awful mobile-friendly layout on their desktop site too. finally figured out to go to espn and click on the calendar then it show you. meh, i'm not waiting until 12:30 to watch a racing formula I'm losing interest in anyway. if it's good I'll watch it tomorrow after work.

Jesus H. Christ.

any live streams of the race? ch10 aren't showing this one. dream boats...

I hope United keep carrying Ethanol. However, we need to be making it from sugar cane. Making it from corn is retarded. The yield (energy produced burning it vs consumed making it) is only 1.3 - that is you only get a 30% energy benefit. Sugar cane's yield is 8 or higher. You get 8 times (800%) as much energy as you put in to make the fuel. That's why Brazil has done so well with Ethanol fuel, and we can produce sugar cane in QLD so we should be on board. Corn ethanol is a waste of time and ties up land that could be used for something more productive.

Use PPC POR15. Follow the directions (cleaning and prepping the surface is the most important part) and use their Metal Ready prep spray too. Everybody just washes it in water and forgets about it and then goes "oh f**k it's still rusting". Yes, when you leave uncoated steel exposed to the elements, guess what happens!! POR15 dries like an epoxy, it is rock hard afterwards.

Yeah I feel like I'm missing something as well. I'm not sure if it's fair to compare pressures and temperatures like that in a dynamic system using gas laws that are derived using a constant volume of gas. I initially thought that since the volume flow was the same on both sides that you could simply compare pressures and temperatures. But volume flow isn't the same thing as volume. In saying that though, what we really care about is the delta-T, and pressure drop. The most efficient cooler will have the biggest delta-T and smallest pressure drop, all other factors being unchanged. So your metric could simply be delta-T divided by delta-P, the higher the number the better. The air flow across the outside is absolutely important, and changes will show up as a difference in cooled charge temperature. No flow means no cooling and 0% efficiency, you will reach an upper bound of diminishing returns depending on the design of the cooler so the main thing is to be consistent with cooling air when comparing cores.

http://www.smh.com.au/comment/six-degrees-from-asher-keddie-to-pope-francis-20150327-1m8b5t.html that second party name

It's way too scientific for anyone to bother but you could calculate intercooler efficiency if you measure MAP and temperature on both sides of the cooler. You can easily calculate what the temperature should be on the cold side purely based on pressure drop. The difference between that figure and the actual temperature on the cold side is due to frictional losses. You have to be sure you're measuring steady state condition and that you equalise the airflow cooling the cooler (ie dyno fan) in a fair manner. Example, if you drop 22psi to 19psi through a cooler and your hot side is at 60 degrees, a 100% efficient intercooler would drop the temperature to 33 degrees. If you only drop the temperature to 40 degrees then your intercooler is 73% efficient. The efficiency loss is friction causing pressure drop. I knocked up a quick excel sheet to fiddle around (you need absolute MAP and absolute temperature, for a start...). It's possible I've overlooked something, my maths is a bit rusty Of course, it's easier for most people to slap another cooler on and do another dyno run. Or if you run a turbo workshop you throw a different turbo in there

yep. I want to make my skyline quieter! I've had a penis for 34 years and we're not parting company any time soon...

They're all f-wits, so it doesn't make any difference. we're screwed.

There is some excellent advice in this thread, except for this line. I'm self-teaching as well, so thanks all who responded (including Guilt-Toy for your other advice). Since fitting my Adaptronic my fuel consumption has gone up 10-15% with the same driving habits, I put it down to my (lack of) tuning ability but I am keen to close the gap. I don't enjoy visiting the petrol station 60km sooner on every tank. My ignition map is similar to zoomzoom's, so will try adding a bit more timing at 60-80kpa and keep an ear out for knock. Cheers all!

chassis rails are quite soft, I have bent them before. With a block of wood to spread the load you should be OK but make sure your lifting setup is solid and not going to fall off the jack. Axle stands - Crossmember at the front, subframe at the back. Those will NEVER move

not real smart to talk about that after getting defected. Cops read forums too you know! R34s are sensitive and throw codes quite easily. Mine told me about coil packs before it even started missing under load. The R34 doesn't have a cat temp sensor (at least mine doesn't) so that won't be a problem. The only sensor in the exhaust is the O2 sensor, and that may be on its way out. You need to check the fault codes and that will tell you exactly what is wrong. O2 sensor and coil packs are the 2 most common issues.