Kinks

Echo thanks to John and his dyno operators / Unique / Turbosmart / Nick / Carlo / etc for running the day. My car was about where I expected it, just making sure it's still running good mixtures etc. When I have more time and money, R33 turbo + EBC

Or I have a sense of humour? Some guys piss their money away on women, who can turn around one day and go "by the way, i've been ****ing someone else for the last month" and leave you on your arse feeling sorry for yourself. Some guys piss their money away on cars, which can also give you grief when they break. However, when it comes to cars, there is ALWAYS a logical reason and there is ALWAYS a way to fix the problem. They normally end up cheaper than women in the long run too Personally, I'd rather be in the latter group! (until I find Ms Right, but that ain't happening any time soon).

Dark oil is doing its job - holding particles in suspension. If you drive 10,000km on an oil and it comes out looking like new then it must be a shit oil. Your engine will probably rattle to a halt soon if that happens However if the oil gets REALLY dirty REALLY quickly then something else is going on that shouldn't be.

I'm going to do my best to make it to this one.. will put my g/f on the rollers if she feels like it (90% certain)

normally a half inch socket drive goes into the plug and rotates it, i'm gathering it's been rounded off though. The standard practice for fixing that is welding a nut onto the top of the drain plug and getting another wrench on there.

I had the same issue in our SR20DE pulsar. mobil 1 looked good and hadn't used much, then i drove it around for a few weeks and then did an old pac run, next time the oil was really dark, and just about down to the low mark. the speed with which it changed did not please me at all, one minute it was a light gold/brown colour and full and the next it looked tired and empty. been using motul 8100 since then, and I use motul in my R31 as well. normally change between 3000 and 5000 (when i feel like it) and the motul comes out looking good. the previous owner used to change mobil 1 every 3000km which would be a decent drain interval for that oil. however, i prefer to use something a little better. have also used castrol synth r 10W60 on the track and it does hold oil pressure better in general but for city driving i prefer to use a thinner oil.

you should hear my car's turbo noise... FMIC and large diameter metal piping sounds like a truck turbo

Woo R31!!

Look at the heat cycle colours on the clutch centre! you've been riding it haven't you andrew. 2rismo is right you drive like a woman

30-36 for street. i actually found mine were wearing more in the middle at ~35 so i put them down to 30. on the track i'd run a bit higher though.

Makes me wonder... If the outer jacket of the oil filter is the intake side (which I think is correct), then this magnet will catch the particles before the filter has a chance to do its job. Also, when you turn the engine off some metallic particles will probably fall off the surface of the oil filter and cling to the magnet. So big deal, you don't really know how much benefit you're getting. Probably the same as changing the filter and oil more often. If the outer jacket is actually the exit side then the magnet's actually trying to pull metal particles through the filter... whoops!

The 31 can fit 8 tyres without using the front passengers seat

+1 pls.. still getting used to the whole calendar thing

I'll have a copy of FD2/CDD thanks. Also if anyone can burn me a copy of the FD1 video pete was distributing that'd be great! (got yours mal, thanks)

:upurs: 6 more weeks and i'll be a qualified alcoholic. so ner

Dan - cheers matey.. that one went bang mid-drift too nah no more entertainment for me until july. I have a thesis that needs to be done quite urgently! this wakefield day took up a big chunk of time helping with prep work and being down there for almost 2 days. entirely my own choice of course but I can't afford any more distractions like that until I'm done with uni

0W-40 is pretty thin for the track. probably fine on the street altho the winter rating is still very thin and not needed in temperate climates. I've run 15W-60 synthetic on the track (warmer weather) and also 5W-40 on the track (cooler weather) and had no troubles at all. I only tend to do a few hard laps and then give the car a breather though... it's a daily driver after all not a racecar. There are a few other just as important factors though - how fresh is the oil, to what level was the oil filled, and how was the car being driven. Old oil = no brainer. Level - you want as much oil as you can safely put in ie right up to the high marker on the dipstick. If you thrash the hell out of an engine for 20 minutes then your oil temps are going to climb and eventually you'll hit the point where the oil stops working. Granted this will be different for a 40 weight vs a 60 weight but if you don't have an oil cooler you shouldn't be asking that much of your car. Also are the other engine components OK with being run that hard for that long... and does the car have sump baffles

Impossible to say until you know whether you have a problem and what the problem is. You should be more worried about the potential of running it too lean for too long and melting an important engine part, which will end up costing you a couple of grand to fix rather than a couple of hundred. If they try and sell you a new aftermarket ECU that's one thing, but if your fuel pump or an injector is on the way out then you should definitely replace it. air/fuel gauges are accurate to the extent that they can show you an indication of "rich" vs "lean". that's only richer than stoichiometric though, just because it says rich doesn't mean your fuel ratio under load is correct because stoich is 14.7:1 and you really want to be running somewhere in the region of 12:1 under WOT... BUT, if you give it a bootful and it goes rich and then comes back to lean again then stop booting it, and get it checked ASAP. If the meter is reading correctly and it's running that lean under load then you have problems! Best case the meter is wrong. Worst case something needs fixing, get it dyno'd and checked and then you'll know.

haha yeah those drift tyres were no match for the RB.... would make a pretty good 'owned' pic

great day guys.. had a ball

400 million times better? shit... i'm gonna feel like I've died and gone to heaven

Yeah but as soon as your tyres leave the ground the squealing stops, the smoke stops and all you can hear is your RB bouncing off the limiter I know what you mean though... airstrip would be top fun

I've heard EC don't like drifting, they claim it wears out the bitumen. Like, whatever As if drifting turn 2 isn't the fastest way around it

Can't it be both? P.S. I should be in for dinner