Kinks

Agreed. I had the same issues with RE001s. With my current Achilles I have dropped my pressures to 28psi, which helps a bit in the wet. But they are so greasy I cannot recommend them, they are really slippery tyres and I will be replacing them very soon.

Check how much "droop" you have. By droop I mean measure the centre-of-wheel-to-arch when the car is on the ground and then jack the car up so the wheels are hanging in the air and measure it again. You need at least a few inches of droop or your shocks will 'top out' out on the exit of a bump. Basically, your car goes over the bump, wheels go up, which pushes the car body up a bit. On the exit of the bump the body is higher, wheels extend and BANG the shocks reach the end of their travel, there is no bump stop in this direction and it sounds really ugly (and will destroy the shock). The workshop who installed my Bilsteins (who SHOULD KNOW BETTER given their proximity to the Bilstein importer) did not remove the spacer inside the shock that limits droop when used with lowered springs. They gave me a car back that had zero droop at the back. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it.

That is tops. Stao for achieving this sort of torque curve on an R34 GTT would you use a 21U or OP6? All the OP6 high flows I see seem to start making boost at 4k which is a bit late for a street car.. I have a second hand OP6 hoping it can be high flowed without going too big on the turbine side..

My R34 GTT has similar symptoms, I had bilsteins fitted and re-used the stock springs at near-stock heights (dropped the rear a little bit via the circlip grooves on the shock to make it sit level.. the front stayed the same). Occasionally clunks a bit when at slow speeds and turning, eg into/out of driveways. I haven't managed to narrow down what's causing it yet.

no idea whether the nistune does anything different to factory w.r.t the IAC valve. You'd have to ask them.

+1 disconnected battery will last 6 months before needing a topup. also, once lead acid batteries go flat, if you have left it flat for a while it will sulfate. sulfated batteries have reduced capacity and are essentially rooted (they will simply keep going flat). they like being stored fully charged. even at 50% charge they will slowly die.

You get what you pay for. Sport Maxx TT in the first half of their life could be driven very confidently in the wet. Even second half of life they were still good. My current Achilles tyres have to tiptoe around the place.. cheap cheap.

If you've still got the stock ECU then check to make sure the IAC valve isn't physically loose, that could also be doing it. mine did something similar when I installed an aftermarket ECU and the IAC valve PWM was set too low.. but unless you've got a programmable ECU it won't be that.

Agree with caveats. New oil colour doesn't mean anything you're just looking at the colouring they added in the factory in many cases (additive mix and stuff). Old oil colour is an indicator of how many particulates the oil has managed to trap. In this situation dark brown oil is a good thing, because the oil has taken the contaminants and trapped them in suspension. If an oil is really black then your change interval is too long or you have switched to an oil with more detergents in it and it has dissolved deposits that your last oil was inadequate in clearing away. Honey coloured oil means it is not doing its job well, assuming you are burning petrol. LPG/E85 doesn't produce any soot so oil will still look honey coloured even when it has reached the end of its service life. This is bad because the oil is not lubricating properly even though it looks new. You can draw conclusions from colour of used oil but only if you know what colour it started out, how long it's been in the engine and what fuel the engine has been burning. Without that information it's useless.

I had the RE001 and they were good to begin with and then hardened up like a rock when they were half worn. I switched rims and bought new tyres, and the RE001s did SEVERAL texi days (including lots of drifting and smoke) before finally showing belts. Couldn't believe how long they lasted, far longer than any "shit" tyre I've taken to Texi. Never again!! Dunlop Sport Maxx TT - great tyre, pricey but gripped like shit to a blanket in the wet and dry right down to the wear limiters.

It's just a bullshit measure to showcase the sport's "green" credentials. It ignores the fact that the most environmentally sensitive thing to do is not to hold a race at all. You can instantly knock off 100% of the fuel burn, plus all the fuel used by spectators turning up to watch it. But Bernie wouldn't get richer, so he won't do it. At least that guarantees we'll be able to watch *something* I guess. Personally, I'd rather have a race. Bring back refuelling and let them go for it. I hate seeing drivers drive to a time. I want to see them flat stick battling it out.

you get 100 internet points

just measure the current draw each cable consumes with engine off. easy to do with a multimeter. I would move the blue engine harness to the same side as the red one (isolated). I don't see how the engine can keep running with both harnesses connected to the isolated side of the switch.

as above for oil. high/hunting idle could be caused by faulty O2 sensor, check the ECU fault codes.

Great idea - this is the only true way to do a tyre test. Make sure you document kms travelled as well so you can see the wear rate (although this varies on driving style). I have had tyres that have been great when new and then when half worn have become treacherous in the wet (Bridgestone Adrenaline RE001). The rubber just seems to harden up and stop gripping. I have had other tyres that were brilliant wet and dry right down to the wear markers (Dunlop Sport Max TT). If you have to replace a tyre that still has half its tread left then it's a waste of money. I have some sort of Achilles tyre on my R34 at the moment. When new they were impressive for a compliance tyre, now that they are half worn the wet grip is dropping off a bit, but it's still reasonable. I have a feeling that I may replace the tyres before they are worn due to lowered grip levels in the wet though.

more rules, more money at least they got rid of the double points race next year. that was gay (although i never watch abu dhabi anyway, it's a shit track)

kids these days.. 200CPI metal cat + decent flowing but not too loud exhaust + good attitude = ZERO harrassment from cops. the attitude part is important. run a bit more boost to compensate for the exhaust losses, and get on with your life.

What this does at high RPM is produce jitter in the RPM signal. It means you might bounce from 1 cell to the next on your map. If you are making 400kW and your tune is highly critical then this could be enough to ruin your day. If you are tuned conservatively it doesn't matter. That's the "it depends". It depends on what your margin is on the tune. Also, I read elsewhere on SAU the problem was worse with aftermarket "performance" timing belts and that the OEM Nissan belt doesn't cause as much jitter. Seems like the factory belt having a bit more "give" in it is working in your favour in this scenario.

The factory R34 ECU uses AFM for steady-state and MAP for transient throttle.

I don't understand how this can be the case.. petrol has a very narrow window of air/fuel mix where it will ignite. if you are leaner than say 17:1 then it will not fire. fuel cut cuts ALL fuel. The only way you could get fuel into the combustion chamber is if it were left over from the previous combustion event. pretty unlikely to be enough fuel to make a flammable mix. when an ECU cuts fuel to a cylinder it needs to decide before opening the injector, it would be pretty f**king stupid for an ecu manufacturer to put out an ECU that decided to stop fuel delivery mid-injection. also, ignition cut and antilag are different things.

I don't know why you would even consider a 15 year old ECU now. Technology has moved forward a long way. You can buy an affordable ECU that is Australian designed for not much money. I went with Adaptronic and it has been in the car (stock R34 GTT) for about a week. I have never tuned a car before, and there are a LOT of options but it is rapidly making sense to me. I would say that my car already drives better than the factory ECU. Haltech will also be a good choice I'm sure, but I saw a few names I trust on here say Adaptronic is great and I'm very happy with the quality of the product and ease of use. Next step ID1000's, then FMIC/turbo.. woohoo

I'm looking at this, but I am hoping to replace the screen with something more modern. the standard screen is 5.5" diagonal, which is an unusual size. Fitting a 4.3" would be easy but a backwards step in size. 7" seems just a bit too big to make it fit.. and there's not really anything in between. otherwise if you can get a decent result with the factory screen, it's a good size so i'd be happy to leave it. haven't tried pulling mine apart yet. I'm on the lookout for a spare TV unit to try replacing the screen as above.. don't feel like leaving a hole in my dash while I mess around where does the composite video input plug in for the screen?

keep the standard clutch fan. upgrade the radiator. stock core is 16mm thick, put a 42mm core in and it will make a big difference to cooling ability. make sure you retain the factory fan shroud. it's there for a reason.

bump

Cold start enrichment is only a few percent and just enough to compensate for fuel condensing on cold cylinder walls. There is a MASSIVE difference in the fuel requirement for actually moving a ~1500kg lump of metal compared with making the engine continue spinning of its own accord with no load on it. Engine temperature changes from 20C to 85C over the course of 3-5 minutes. This is slower than boiling some water in a kettle so I don't know why you're hung up on things warming "too fast". When petrol burns, the cylinder temperature shoots up a few hundred degrees in milliseconds, if you're that worried about things going from cold to hot perhaps you should drive an electric car?