Kinks

yes you need jap R31 struts - or custom caliper mounts to be made (which is expensive). When you put jap struts on you have many more options. talk to a brake and clutch place for rebuild kits. 1 spot kits are cheap, 4 might be more costly. But make very sure you know what you're doing rebuilding brakes, if you don't have expertise on hand to supervise I'd let a workshop do it. Because if you stuff up one piston and it leaks, you squirt the fluid out your pedal goes to the floor and you have NO brakes. But rebuilding them is a very wise idea if their condition is unknown or suspect.

umm, best not to identify locations guys. I'm sure the owner wouldn't appreciate people telling the world where he normally parks his car. Who cares who drives what car anyway...

I'm grounded until I rebuild my calipers.

ryde works for me. straight down lane cove rd and onto the M4, can do that in my sleep! (although hopefully will have my eyes on the road lol)

best drifto look

I'd say the driver training day will be more structured and have closer feedback. You'd do well to do that and also do Aaron's stage 1 day at a later date - I've been driving for ~5-6 years and I still got a lot out of stage 1. But either day will give you the opportunity to get out and see what your car does.

scare tactics. i've had one threaten me with confiscation under the "burnout policy" for doing a 0.5 second chirp off the lights in my charade. i admitted to doing 10km/h over the limit too (i was doing at least 20 over) but once he found out my old man owned the car he put the pressure on to slow down "and i'll tell your old man if you don't" (he asked and I said dad probably doesn't know i drive like that - which was complete BS of course my old man encouraged me to drive it hard lol) they have a shit job and i respect them a lot but they sure don't do themselves favours occasionally.

MRT did all the mods and servicing on the charade I used to drive and the car was a little ripper for what it was. But MRT = expensive. I'd dread service time because the cost was always high - although I was much younger back then so money was worth more. In the end, when I left the charade behind I left MRT behind. Just had the feeling I was paying too much, and started to get a little cynical about the place towards the end. The mechanics started to get quite narky and would tell me to wait in the lounge rather than watching them work, although i was only watching for interests sake. They had one who was friendly and would chat to me while he finished up on my car but he left, and so did the open friendly nature when I went there. I remember at one time asking that they adjust the idle up because it was too lumpy - and they made more of a deal than was necessary about it and said it was adjusted a bit but they couldn't adjust it much etc etc and fuel emissions from high idle and whatever - and the idle was no different. Eventually I found out there was just an air bypass valve near the manifold with a big white knob on the top and I adjusted the damn idle myself! Made a world of difference when sitting at the lights. I think that's when the cynicism started, actually. It was a very small issue but just showed that they didn't really care as long as they had my money. The gearbox eventually went, after a very hard life, and the second hand one I asked them to put in (limited budget and a fair price by MRT) started leaking. Had another workshop look at it (and show me what was going on - he insisted on not charging me too, before saying it was definitely a warranty job for MRT) before taking it to MRT again, and MRT were very quick to diagnose a cracked casing and offer me a warranty replacement. The second gearbox was fantastic, so that episode restored some faith in the place. They do much better work than dealer service, people in dealers are sometimes/often absolute monkeys. But you pay hand over fist for having a rally shop do work on your car - as many have said you're paying for Brett to go racing. Ultimately I've had some great times as a result of the work MRT's done, but they definitely pander to the cheque book racer.

boo.. i'm busy that day. will have to get out to an R31 meet soon tho

Yep.. I mashed that wet corner and pretended i wasn't expecting the back to step out just to demonstrate to myself what happens. Stage 2 is where I try to control it. Coming into a corner normally at 60 and hitting 'go' before the apex with a fair amount of lock still on is about as stupid as stupid ideas goes. But it's a good exercise and reminder about things going pear shaped.

experience is something that comes in part with time. but doing a driver training day is certainly beneficial, there's no reason to hold off doing one. Either way if you recognise that the car has limits and you do too, and drive within both types, then you should be right. Learn where the limits are in a safe environment.

Might be a bogan in a commodore but after that skidpan day he's a self pronounced drift god. Coming sideways to a telegraph pole near you

5W-40 is probably good enough all year as long as you don't give the motor a hard time when it's hot (which is bad for it in ways besides lubrication anyway). I wanted slightly thicker for summer but I'm sure 5W-40 will do OK. Wouldn't really be keen on using a 0W oil though. You do need to have some viscocity!!

R32 does it for me!

P.S. eek I haven't updated my user text! Fix it fix it!

This thread makes me want aftermarket management..

Brendan has news? :uh-huh:

I started whoring other forums

:bahaha:

it's back. I'ma gonna have to post whore the last 25 days again though by the looks of it

interested pending details (date, cost, activities). But I'll be on the skidpan on the 12th anyway.

My pulsar manual said 91 RON minimum but you will notice better performance and enconomy if you use 95 RON or higher. I do. The Skyline always gets 98 RON though. It deserves it

there will be different generations of technology too don't forget. A brand spankers trust will be better than a stock RB20 turbo, obviously. So you really have to compare turbo X, for Y bucks, with what you have on the car now. Certainly, when comparing stock nissan turbos (eg RB20 vs RB25) you'd expect the ball bearing one to spin up faster.

don't bother with special measures. if you cut ignition or fuel, you're still compressing air into the engine so there is some load. the engine won't fire but there's still some load. the starter motor is also very high torque and that loads the engine too. You'd have to remove all the plugs and turn the engine over by hand many times until oil came up to truly have no load. I wouldn't worry about the turbo either, they don't spin fast at idle and again there's not much load on them. Genuine filter with anti-drainback valve, 5W oil and let it idle for 30 seconds when you start it, then drive it off gently until it is warm. That's all you need, motors are designed to be cold started (not excessively but a reasonable usage) and with synthetic oil you won't get nearly as much drain off components as mineral oil (not that anyone w/ turbo cars uses mineral but compared to normal engines out there - my charade always used mineral and revved its tits off after 140,000km of hard use!)

could it be a 4 stud wheel/disc with upgraded 4 pot calipers? I find it hard to believe 2 wheel studs can be hiding under the lip. 2 of the 3 visible look like they're directly opposite each other, the spacing is too wide IMO. I assume this is on an auction site, otherwise i'd be asking for better pics. I'd be wary but if it's sold as a GTR and you don't get a GTR, you'd want your money back.