courier33

This might be a crazy idea, and I'd say someone has tried it before: To upgrade injectors on my r33, leave standard FPR, Injectors and rail. Buy (1) 900 to 1000 cc top feed high impedance injector. $80 Using the emanages extra injector driver chanel, weld a bung into the intake pipe before the throttle plate for the injector. Make up a hose from the rail to the injector and bring it into operation at around 4000 rpm. 6 * 380cc = 2280 6 * 555cc = 3330 6 * 380cc + 1000cc = 3280 Any thoughts??

Hey Bazr33 I had the GT30 installed too in my r33 and I also have a Jasma exhaust. Got EPA'd and put a stock system on. With the GT30 it was borderline for passing at 92db.

Your going to need the pressure sensor as well as the pressure sensor harness. Also get a usb cable to connect to pc. It is just bolt on and go, although you need to connect it to a laptop or pc to configure it before you start it the first time. This is to tell the emanage what type of car its connected to and what it has that isnt standard. Once its configured it will still be outputting the exact same ignition and fuel signals as the standard ecu signal thats coming in. The maps need to be adjusted on a laptop via a usb cable to make any changes to the ignition or fuel ect. When you have done this, you will need to create a map BEFORE connecting up the map sensor and removing the air flow meter. This is explained on this thread a few pages back.

Could you please tell me exactly what was swapped around to fix the miss you said you had on your injectors UCD15R33? You said someone changed 1 and 6 around? You mean removed and swapped injectors around or whats the go? Just curious what fixed it for you because I had a severe miss with one of the injectors I was using.

What did he change around there?^^

Had a fair crack at fixing the ignition and fuel maps this morning. Adjusted the scale on the A/F target, Ignition, and INJ1 to: Start at 4000 rpm and finish at 7200 for rpm's Start at 3.0V and finish at 5.0V for input voltage. Still got a fuzzy bit in the ignition timing around 6000 rpm's where the timing goes from + to - with only one row of 0's seperating them. Might have to space it out a bit further apart with the scale changer. Heres a pic of my new datalog: Still some work to do, but the AFR's are looking really nice now. Power delivery is very much improved. nearly_fixed.doc

Either A. you have done heaps of these tunes and have got it figured out OR B. you know how to read Japanese and read the other half of the instruction book

Get it happening and Id be happy to run it in, or out. As far as that goes, I think you mentioned that in a previous post so Im wary of this already.

Hey UCD15R33 I had the 5 cylinder thing going on with mine. Tried 2 sets of the same brand injectors and same results. I took it for a spin up my road and didnt get far because within 100m i know for sure I had 5 cylinders going. Tries changing the response times around heaps and no fix. Seemed like @ idle 5 cyl. Under power 6 cyl. Cruise @ 100 5 cyl. What brand injectors are you using? When I put the standard ones back in it was fixed. BTW the quality of the injectors was substandard so im putting it down to them.

Your a Champ Trent. Im pretty sure I understand that bit. ^^ I havent touched the airflow meter map. I selected VG30DETT afm for the Q45 im running and its doing a good job. So as far as AFM map, 0's everywhere. OK just read it again and now i think I got ya. Pull 5 degrees out for safety measure in the power areas of the map. ie. bottom r/h half. Tune the fuel up to whatever A/F Im after. Then, move the timing back to 0, which is the stock wavy curve timing. + check for pipngin when I do it. I have only had one very small ping spike on every data log ive done so far. Im not sure what your talking about with the rpm Vs tps to fine tune the afm map. I figure when I can afford injectors and tune it for them, then ill be able to afford to get the fine tune bit done by someone other than myself.

Hey I just found that out. Im starting to really like this emanage now that im figuring out how to work it. Im sitting here with both maps open wondering what the red squares on the maps are And then it hit me! F.Y.I.

Ah HA!! Uploaded.

OK heres where Im at. DID have 660 CC injectors from USA but they were absolute crud!!. So sending them back. Decided to tune with stock injectors as I still want bigger injectors but cant afford the good ones (nismo) right now, and dont want to fork out for fuel pressure reg if im not going to need it in the future. So, ran with the A/F target map and copied the figures out of the booklet that came with it. Bypassed the boost controller so the wastgate actuator runs straight from the manifold. I have a GT30 BTW so didnt want too much boost. Gets 7psi by 3500 and up to 10 by 5000 to the redline. Did about 6 runs with the logger running and the emanage did a beautiful job of pulling the fuel out to achieve the target AFR's. But now I have had a look at all of the dyno run posts and it looks like everyone is running 11.5 to 12.0 AFR's all the way through. So im thinking, Im going to plug in 12.0 all over the relevant areas of the AF target map to achieve this. Made a noticeable difference having the AFR's cleaned up to this point. It did have between 9.8 and 10.2 all the way through originally. Next step is going to be to fix the 2 big ignition timing dips that I have. I have found that EVERY data log has the EXACT same ignition dips, so shouldnt be too hard to work on. Heres a pic of my log for a power run that I have just done. 4000 RPM to 6700 RPM. HMMM have to read up on how to post up a pic and then put it in. emanage_ultimate.doc

Had same prob with my R33 GTST and turned out to be O2 sensor. Heres a couple more ideas: Pull the spark plugs out. If its running really rich they will look like they are really black and very sooty. If they are ALL black then its not a leaking injector. Its more likely some sensor error or the ECU dumping fuel in for some reason. If only ONE is black then look at that cylinder. You would notice a missfire on that cylinder. If NONE of them are black and your getting bad economy then..... NO Idea. BTW I had a missfire when the O2 sensor was dead. Missfired from running too rich. AFR's were 9.7 to 10.2 when cruise. 250ks to tank.

For starters im 99.99 sure skylines done have an egr valve (exhaust gas recirculation). If you are talking about the PCV valve, then its only sucking crankcase pressure under vaccum circumstances. Think about it, its connected to the intake manifold, so when driving around in vaccum (75% of the time for most of us) the valve lets the engine suck all of the gasses out of the engine block and head area, stopping oil leaks through gaskets, and sucking up and burning all of the gases that get past the rings. Ok, so may not be so good burning up already burnt gasses. When you go into boost, the valve in the PCV closes, stopping the turbo from pumping up the crankcase to the same pressure as the boost your running. So as soon as you go into boost, the valve closes and none of those gasses get in to the manifold and burnt, thus having no effect on outright power at all.

Cheers guys, some really good options in that lot Your right with the GT30, bit hard to hide, but ive still got it std position and done the job on the stock cover to make it fit and look roughly like standard. You can tell when you look at it from the front and theses a 4" pipe coming off it that it shouldnt be there. I did have a play around with the wastegate actuators, and eneded up with one off some really small garret I had laying around. With the hose going straight from the manifold to the turbo actuator, it holds 7psi to about 4500, then goes to 10 - 11 psi up to the redline. This is all the boost it can handle at the moment, as the stock injectors hit 80% at 6250. So I think i will try out one of the restrictor/hole in the hose ideas as posted above when i fit bigger injectors and are looking for a few psi more boost.

I am in the process of modifying my r33 gtst, but would like to keep it as stock looking under the engine bay as possible. I am running a GT30, and have read that aftermarket boost controllers are not legal in VIC, but i would like more boost than the stock 9psi. Therefore I have started looking into how the factory one works. From what I can tell, and I may be wrong here, is works like this: Boost pressure from intake pipe goes through a rubber hose with a sort of calibrated restrictor in it, and then to the wategate actuator. The solenoid bleeds air from this hose via the t-piece, and routes the air back into the intake, thus controlling the boost by how much air is bled off. As far as I know the ECU doesnt know how much boost there actually is (in psi). So heres my theory: If you get rid of the hose from the intake pipe to the t-piece, and replace it with a hose that has a pice of brass in it with a hole drilled through (to a specific size), and by controlling the size of that hole, the boost could be increased while still looking like its stock. I hope that made sense! Does anyone know if the factory solenoid has only the 2 specific bleed rates (7 + 9psi) or can it vary? Im not sure what size hole would have to be drilled in the restrictor because i threw out my factory hoses in favour of one of those $22 dollar boost controllers.

Has anyone here had boost cut kick in when using the emanage ultimate? I gave it a squirt tonight and at around 3.5k to 4k the engine cut out completely and fired back up again. Same type of cut-out as when I had the wastegate actuator disconnected (by accident) back when it was standard, and gave it a bootfull. I have read that the emanage ultimate has built in boost cut feature, but im not sure if this relates to cars which use pressure sensing, or the r33 which uses the AFM to detect it.

Its reading it from the Air Flow Meter. The factory ecu knows what load points are 'normal' for the stock engine and what load points are only capable of reaching during excess boost.

Would this plasma coating be referring to a type of coating in the bores that has been used on 2 and 4 stroke motorbikes for years? Ive had a couple of bikes that use a nickel/silicone coating in the bores thats applied by plasma when manufactured. The coating is extremely hard and therefore has zero bore wear, unlike conventional cast iron bores.

I have had 660's in but I took them out to get them tested. I am running standard injectors currently when I have this misfire problem. Try creating a brand new file, and input your data into that if you have any map adjustments. I have found its best not to mess around with any of the maps near the idle area as the stock ecu takes care of these areas fine. The emanage defaults rb25 injectors to 0.7 i think. This is what solved my problem. Heres what I also did to try to trace my missfire: - Disassemble CAS: Series 2 CAS comes apart and blew it out with compressor. - Check on the throttle setting of emanage to make sure closed throttle voltage is 0.4V. If not, adjust it via the secrews on the TPS. *** The engine needs to be fully warmed up before you do this (so the temp needle is 1/2)*** - Reset ECU by shorting pins under the dash, then set base idle and timing. - Disconnect TPS and set base idle at 650 - 700rpm via screw on ACC. - Set base timing to 15 degrees with timing light on #1 coilpack with ignition lead extension. - Reconnect TPS. This process solved the problem for me, although if you do a search you will find a heap more info on idle missfire. BTW I have a series 2 r33.

So that means your not running sequential injectors. Squential injection means that each injector fires in sequence as per the ignition sequence. You can run it as group fire injection which is what your explaning but its not as good.

#1 how do you know your on compression stroke on no.1 cylinder. did you remove the plug to check this? #2 if you are running wasted spark, you will get a spark on both the exhaust and compression stroke of no.1 you need to rotate the cas so the spark your timing the cas with is the first one you get after the no.1 injector pulses. This is assuming your running sequential injection.

Beauty. Did that ^^. Timing now works a treat. Had missfire at idle only, and couldnt track it down. Ended up reverting the injector lag time back to 0.7 by doing a new file and fixed!! Had no corrections anywhere on any maps apart from chainging to VG30DETT AFM both times, so im assuming it didnt like the lag time at 0. Was a very noticeable missfire, and at low rpm's at very light throttle would bounce off the backlash in the diff. So if you set the lag time to 0 and have this happen, this could be what it was.

3rd time round. computer =