courier33

double post

Here how I set my CAS up. Removed #1 coilpack and put dummy spark plug in it to check spark. Line TDC up on the crank with the marker (the red stripe on the pulley) Remove CAS and turn the shaft with the ignition on, until the dummy spark plug fires. Make sure the plug is grounded. Now without turning the CAS put it back in the motor. If it still doesnt start and backfires, then the #1 piston is 360 out. Get the motor to TDC again on the crank pulley. Turn the engine over EXACTLY 360 degrees (1 turn). Refit CAS there and try again. This will get the CAS close enough to start the engine and fine tune it from there.

Hey I have found someone north of Melbourne that cleaned and tested my whole set of rb25 injectors for $40. Was quoute between $90 and $150 for testing only in melbourne

Thats why people upgrade the afm to one that reaches maximum voltage at a higher airflow than stock. If you run a map sensor on an emanage you can change the scale of the maps to avoid running out of load points. I had the same cut thinng happen to me a couple of weeks after i purchased my r33, removed the wategate actuator pipe and forgot to re-connect it. As soon as I went flat out, I went from pinned to the seat to nearly head butting the windscreen when the turbo boost went to god knows what, and maxxed the air flow meter.

I think its because you afm is at maximum voltage and cant read any more airflow, and hence cant meter fuel delivery from that point onwards. Thats why it cuts out, because from there onwards will become lean. Theres no way around it apart from bigger afm and aftermarket ecu.

Yeah i am running three, although ive been told the center one is a resonator. The extra muffler i fitted was one of those straight through chamber mufflers which doesnt seem to have any insulation to dampen out the noise. Instead it used the shape of the inside to cancell out noise. I should have used a straight through with the insulation packing in it instead.

Just another point to check, I have a split dump pipe and when it was removed I looked inside it to where the split joins on, and the hole on the main pipe where the split pipe was welded to was no where near as big as the diameter of the wastegate pipe. There would definately be a restriction to wastegate exhaust in this area. As far as I can see the only way to fix it would be to cut the dump pipe just behind where the split joins, and port out the hole with a die grinder or something.

I have the exact same system as you and I can tell you that its way over the db limit. I got epa'd for it and had to fit a standard system for the test, which still came in at 90.4 db for a 90 db limit. The standard system was a lot quieter than the one you have.

OK heres another one which im not 100% about. Just adjusting the ignition timing because I have a slight miss at idle. Plugged the timing light in with the laptop on datalogging and found some funny results. The timing was at nearly 0 degrees on crank with the tps connected and about 800rpm - datalog showing 14 - 16 degrees Disconnected the tps, idle went to 1000, timing on crank goes to 15 degrees - datalog shows 20, i think... Left the tps on, adjusted the timing up to 15 degrees, from 0 which it was on. Reset base idle on the acc valve because it was idling a bit high. Now the datalogger is showing 0 - 2 degrees. Im assuming what I have done here is correct because it seems to be idling a lot better, and when you give it a big rev from idle it doesnt shudder. I have both the crank and cam wires connected. So.... The emanage datalogger is showing ignition adjustment from 15 degrees and not the actual timing. Does anyone know if this is correct??

The rb25 plenum can be pressurized without the air leaking through the exhaust valves. I just tried it and the first time there was a leak, but i cranked it over a little bit and it sealed up. Removed afm, blocked the intake pipe, and pumped it up to 5psi through the fuel pressure reg hose that goes onto the manifold.

Interesting you say this about pressurizing the plenum. This must mean that rb cams have 0 overlap. ie only intake or exhaust open at any time? Therefore pressurizing cylinders without losing pressure through exhaust ports is possible?

Thanks for the feedback guys, it certainly seems a better way than trying to listen for a leak when the engine is running. Not surprised its been done before tho. Funny to hear the different ways people use to plug the intake up. Maybe jam a spud in there, it works well up the exhaust

I have read heaps of threads about rough idle, stalling etc etc and it seems to come up very often that intake leaks are the source of the problems. Its pretty hard to find a small leak when the car is running by listening for it, especially with the noisy engine fan, and it can get messy with a can of wd40 or something similar being sprayed on every seal and clamp. So I have been thinking about another way of checking for leaks. Has anyone considered making a blank that fits inside the rubber hose on the intake pipe where it bolts onto the throttle body, and another blank that fits over the air flow meter where the fliter attaches. Then fit a rubber tyre valve stem into one of them and pressurizing the intake system to say 20 psi. It would be a lot easier to listen for leaks this way when the engine is off. Also I was thinking you could not have a blank on the throttle body pipe, but instead put one on the dump pipe/exhaust tip and pressurize the whole intake/exhaust. Can anyone see a problem with this? Im thinking of making some blanks up to check my engine but dont want to damage anything in doing so.

If your on the stopper and still need to turn it further, remove it by undoing the three bolts and re-install it with the splines one tooth out. Which way you need to re-align the splines depends on which way your turning it and running out of travel. If your turning it clockwise as far as it can go, then turn the rotor anti-clockwise in the CAS before you re-install it.

Every 3 db increse the sound volume doubles. I had epa test done with stock system from cat back (split dump and hi-flow cat) and came up to 90.4 db. Limit is 90 db in vic. So 93 db is twice as loud as stock, and 96 db is four times as loud. I have a Jasma 3 into 3.5" system. Was tolerable with standard turbo, but fitted a gt30 0.86 and bacame a lot louder. I ended up fitting another muffler between the diff and the cannon bit at the back, which only decresed the noise level slightly.

Once your motor is hot + hot weather + heatsoaked intercooler, pinging is more likely to occur. If you have thrashed it a bit, it will be likely to ping then because its hot. Doesnt mean its going to ping every time you step on the throttle from now on. Bigger intercooler will help stop it from happening on hot days. + higher octane fuel also helps.

I hate funny buggers.

I have noticed that the input and output voltages for the afm are different. The emanage outputs slightly more voltage than is coming in.... At idle there is about 0.03 to 0.08 more volts. I think if the voltage is different, and im running standard injectors and afm, that its going to cause problems with the standard ecu trying to compensate fuel and timing? Should the afm map be adjusted in its entirety to reduce the voltage back until the input and output match at idle?

I find it is very unresponsive to adjustments of idle. You wind it in or out a fair bit and it stays at 750 rpm, and if you keep winding it in it jumps to about 1100 in 1/2 turn.

Played with the idle screw on the butterfly/throttle cable, only to find out the idle should be adjusted on the ACC valve. Ive done a search and because it seems like it shouldnt be touched, I cant find any answers as to how to set it back to stock. Theres a little bit of red paint on it from the factory but I cant lie it up with anything. Does anyone know how to reset the throttle butterfly idle screw position?

Yeah im up in the tullamarine area. The number on my ecu is 5076. I am going to take it to a tuner but i would like to be able to get the q45 afm running properly and my 660cc injectors running properly also. Im going to map the voltages for the stock afm on the datalogger and then when i fit the q45, adjust the voltages in the low load areas (0% throttle) to match up. Maybe map the cruise voltages as a reference also. Then use the a/f meter and the fuel target map to adjust the parts of the fuel map which are in the high load areas. When i get to this point and im happy with how its running I will get it on the dyno for finer adjustments. If I end up pulling too much hair out over it ill just take it to someone to sort, but id feel like a better sense of achievement if i can get it to this point on my own, and have an understanding of whats going on with the ecu.

Got the latest version (2.13) and have knock sensors tapped in to the factory wires and set up in the configuration to run both sensors. Running non resonant at 7.2khz as mentioned in previous posts. Have a reading of 0% knock on both sensors when driving around. Is this normal or should there be some degree of knock 1% - 2% 10%? I am a bit worried about advancing the timing incase there not working properly and the knock sensors arent reading at all. emanage ultimate is on r33 gtst rb25

Ive noticed this as well since I have fitted a higher flowing fuel pump. It sounds like a vibrating type noise coming from the fuel reg. Not sure why this has started to happen now, maybe the extra amount of fuel flowing through it causes this. Also similar problems with revs, but reset the ecu and see if it improves. Mine stabilised on start up quicker after the ecu was reset.

I have the LC-1 connected to emanage ultimate for data logging. Works very well and easy to use. I did have the narrow band output running into the standard ecu but I think the updating of it was too fast for the ecu to run closed loop properly. Although, I think theres an option in it to slow the response time down. Cheap option for monitoring A/F ratio. Havent had it on dyno yet so I havent verified the accuracy of it against another A/F meter.

Have you set up the emanage using a laptop and configuring the type of engine you have? It doesntt matter if the setup is add/trim in order to get the car going. Once its plugged in and configured it should start. How do you know your injectors are dead?