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stolen_s15

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Everything posted by stolen_s15

  1. Oh its on now!! *if yuor Brembo's go missing it wasn't me!!*
  2. Found my windscreen wipers up when i returned to the car. i'm looking at you Ray!
  3. +1 for Carizma. I purchased my S15 through them in 2003. Good cars and good service, but make sure you bargain on the price!
  4. +1 90% or more of reports show people NOT happy with these turbos after purchase.
  5. PFC is a full replacement ECU for the car, SAFC is simply a tool that trick the standard ECU into working properl with the mods you have. PFC is a far better unit but also comes with a higher price tag. What you will need for 200rwkw- 1. Full exhaust from turbo to tip 2. Boost Control 3. Intercooler (R34 SMIC will be fine for up to 200rwkw, any more get a front mount) 4. Fuel pump 5. Clutch 6. ECU (huge amount of options, TOSHI remap seems very good value and retains the stock computer) 7. Air filter, either pod or upgraded panel What you will need for 250rwkw- 1. All of the above 2. Z32 AFM 3. Bigger fuel injectors, the S15 480cc's will be fine for this power level. 4. Turbocharger upgrade, look in the rb25det upgrade thread for heaps of info. I'm currently making 249.7kw on 16 psi with a bolt on hi flow, which only cost $1050 second hand with onl a few hundred km's on it. 5. Tune.
  6. The current price on a student income is already taking a serious chunk outta my wallet, if it got to 2.00 i would have to say no more. But soon i'll getting about in an LPG commodore and the line will serve totall pleasure purpose, so i wont car about fuel.
  7. Should be picking up my daily this week, first and only mod will be an LPG conversion! Driving the line from Sth Melb to Bundoora and Mt Waverly 5 days a week on a student income suxors!
  8. I have a mate with stern 17"s on his car but they are not 5 spokes more like 9 spokes, car is stock apart from that so prob not a very good indicator.
  9. My uncle got clocked at 281 on a suzuki hayabusa just over 2 years ago, no loss of lisence or even a fine. Nothern Territory, on a no speed limit road
  10. Easy answer is sell your car and buy a turbo model. Much less trouble, effort and better results. Otheriwse you will need to get : turbo exhaust manifold new dump/front pipe setup intake piping intercooler piping and cooler itself new ecu (to run th thing) plus a handful of other things i cant remember off the top of my head. You will be limted in the boost you run due to the high compression of the non turbo motor. Plus other things like brakes, clutch, etc will not be up the task of sufficiently handling the new power. But that being said it can, and has been done check this thrad for details ------- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...lin-t69998.html
  11. It states that instead of on the spot fines they will issue warnings or take the matter to court. No free ride guys
  12. Idiots.
  13. I have an R33 S2 you can borrow but i guess thats not much help.
  14. As above, use PFC for inj duty cycle.
  15. ^^ As paul said. If it keeps doing it then its toast if not then its fine. My clutch (twin plate of some sort) has slipped only once, when I first picked it up from getting its 250kw tune and i thought it was stuffed. Since then i have had 1-2 nights of doing nothing but launching the car and burnouts (calder park not the street) and i just cant kill it!! So you may not have ot get a new clutch just yet.
  16. Good suggestions above (save for a couple), this is what I would do. 1. Finish that exhaust!! JJR dump/front pipe. $195 + shipping. 2. Get some boost control, and bump it up to 12psi. Turbotech manual valve - Less than $40 from ebay. 3. TUNE!! I would stay away from the S-AFC route and go for a Toshi remap of the stock ECU. Better value for money. $400-600 You will also be needing a clutch, so budget for that $800 +
  17. I have oil temp and pressure top of the dash dead centre (cause if i loose oil pressure I wanna be able to notice it), and boost on the steering column. I also use water temp, knock level, and inj duty cucle on th PFC.
  18. Just spotted roy. Cnr of Park st & Canterbury Rd South Melbourne. The car looks very tuff with the cage and race seat!!
  19. I had one of these things flying through traffic today......wow.
  20. A short shifter will make your GB feel very tight and notchy.
  21. Well I got my first 400km / tank today in 90% city driving in heavy traffic!!! :D I'm now convinced it was 80% my driving and 20% mechanical (plugs, fuel/air filter, and O2) I drove the first 2/3 of the tank purely for enconomy (inj duty cycle basically never above 10%) but I couldn't keep it up and drove 'normally' the rest of the way. Siddr20 I'm running NGK BK6EYA I think, will need to check when i get home.
  22. Darren, just caught up on all the news! Congrats on being a dad mate, big change from the old days back in Melbourne ey? I would put the oil cooler behind the incooler as behind the passenger side duct is a pain. I have it like that on mine, and i have to take the front bar off to drain the oil properly.
  23. Forget abotu looking at the KM's as stated above they are almost all wound back. For a real idea of KM look at things like the drivers seat, you will see wear on the outside hip support, also check the 'leather' on the handbrake boot, the wear on the gearstick and also on the steering wheel. This will tell you how much use the car has had As for fuel consumption, if you really have to ask then it will cost too much. I have a big thread on fuel economy for R33 gts-t's, which will give you detailed info if you can be bothered finding it. Basically its all down to how you drive and if its city or freeway. When my cra was making 200rwkw i was struggling to get over 270km per tank, changed filters, plugs O2 sensor blah blah blah and it went up to about 320. My cra now has 250rwkw and i did a whole tank driving for economy (car only went above 12% inhector duty cycle 2-3 times) and hey presto i got 420km!!! So as i said its all down to how you drive and the tune, thats if the filters and sensors are operating correctly.
  24. SpunkyMonkey remove the recirculation pipe from stock bov to intake. PRESTO!!! You now have stock bov, and an atmo bov in one. Amazing I know!!!
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