c-west norway

Im building a datsun 240z with a vh41 engine at the moment. ...I know this isnt directly skyline related, but I,ll post it up here cause i believe you guys can cive me the best possible answer to my question. the vh41 is going to get a garret gt4088r and Im looking at 700hp at the wheels and ca 1000nm. Can anyone recommend a clutch for my application? I have used the tvin(ts2bd) and the triple(ts3b) from os giken. The twin was great to use, but the triple was horrible... A tuner in the states says the exedy triple pleate i street friendly with a tilton Center slave sylinder. Im not really convinced... Has anyone tried the tilton slave? Does it exist a Twin plate clutch holding this sort of power and will last? Have anyone tried triple plates with better driveability than the os giken ts3b? Any help is mutch aprechiated!!

Hi, I have a s14 with 350 hp at the wheels.(sr20) Im looking to upgrade the rear brakes and diff in it for track driving. I,ve had a nismo plated diff on my last car, and I wont have it again for a road/track car. Therefore im considering buying a complete rear subframe from a car with better diff and rear brakes. Change the complete subframe, or mount in the brakes and diff into the original one. Is it done before? What subframe is recommended to use for my application? r33 gts-t r32gtr r33gtr r33gtr v-spec 300zxtt any help is appreciated alot!!

I have a s13 with an rb26 engine. big single turbo, apexi pfc, 300zxafm, 260cams etc... I am having a problem with the engine at the moment. I pulled it hard in first and second gear, and all of a sudden, the engine lost power. idling is fine, no leaks, changed the plugs to see if they where blown but with no luck. its fine driving at low speeds aswell, but when it starts building boost at 3000-3500rpm things just bow down. the air/fuel is going ritch, and lots of black smoke comes out... right now im thinking there is something wrong in the ignitionsystem. it seems like its not firing at all on load. tried to release the pedal a bit too, but the same things happens. have anyone here had similar problems vith their rb26 engines? its REALLY boring to drive it now.... any help is mutch apprechiated!!!!

.... the fan is going the right way, and the thermostat is kicking in aswell. but it doesent seem to be enough.... I have a single 13" fan in front of the rad. There isnt any room fo one at the rear of the rad. will try to bleed the system once again, and see if it works.... Have heard that the n1 pump was better on both low and high rpm...? Right now im thinking its the fan being too slow.... if there was bleeding issues the problem would be there always.(also hard driving) the fan is a cheap ebay one.... flowing 1300cfm. can anyone recommend a good fan at a good price somewhere?

I have a s13 with an rb 26 engine. the car overheats in city driving. Its fine with hard driving. I can keep the heat down by using the Interior fan, but it gets HOT Have tried the folloving: new termostat sard 68 degrees removing thermostat new pump (N1) bleeding the system by loosening the bleed skrew on the plenum. it has a big koyo aluminium radiator. electric fan with thermostat Im thinking maybe airflow problems? I have intercooler and oilcooler in front of the radiator. Can anyone give me some tips for what to do next?

I have a nismo plated diff and need to change the oil in it. Do I have to buy the Nismo oil or can I use something else? I dont want to import oil from Japan for every change... What do you guys use?

its a r33 gtr engine in a s13. Right now I am using the comander on my apexi pfc to read the watertemp. The needle in the dash only moves a few millimeters when the engine is hot. Can I change the rb sender with my original s13 sender to get it working? Where are the sender located on the enine?

I believe I have the right mix. Do people have problems with air when changing the rb26? I will try to extend the in/out pipes and put the coolant and pipes in a bucket to see how good it flows.

I have a problem with the engine water going to over 100 degrees c. when driving at low speeds. The engine has now been rebuilt and i checked the water pump, changed the termostat to a sard 68c. and changed to a koyo aluminium radiator. But I still have the same problems.... Can anyone give me some advice on what else to look for? What is the normal watertemp on a rb26? Thanks in advance!

Im running a 180sx s13 with a modified rb26dett engine. Once the spring comes, I would like to see where it can get me at the 1/4miles. I have some 7,5x16"rims lying around, and thought maybe they could do the job? Or do i need larger? What kind of tyre is best?(tire type and brand) thanks in advance!

I have tried the search forum, but with no luck.... can anyone give me some info on adjusting the gears?

I have mounted the 260 tomei cams type b into my rb26dett, and are now in the prosess of adjusting the cam gears.... have heard that in +2 and ex-4 is good. im looking for around 440rwkw with my garret gt 35/40. Can anyone tell me if this setting is good?

Just recieved my tomei oil pan baffle-kit for my rb 26. In the instructions supplyed with the kit, I can see a picture about removing the front axle in the pan, and then a pic with a man drilling against the baffle kit area.... Can anyone tell whats needed to get the baffle kit in? I must say it looks like a very good upgrade! But my japanese is quite crappy....

Thanks for your help guys!!! I think I will try the current setup to see if it works. Will keep you updated.... all the parts for the engine has now arrived, and I will take to my builder the next weekend. specs: je pistons 1mm oversize eagle rods arp head studs n1 oil pump tomei 1,2mm gasket kit tomei baffle kit tomei cams pfc pfc boost kit 300zx afm garret gt35/40r hopefully this will get me to a safe and reliable 650-700hp

I have a rb26 engine and are going to tune it to around 700 flywheel hp. On the fueling side I have twin valbro 255l fuel pumps in tank,700cc sard injectors, nism fpr, stock fuelline and stock fuelrail. Will this setup be capable of flowing fuel to 700hp? Right now I am running a hybrid intercooler (300x600x80mm) With 3"pipes. Do i need to go for a larger one? (300x600x100mm maybe?) regards, helge

I will try that! Thanks alot!!!!

.... how did you put it back in then? maybe it will come off with some heat?

Yes, do I really need to cut them off? I would like to have them back on after its cromed. is it possible?

Does anyone know how to remove the breather pipes on top of the cam covers? I am sending the covers in for croming, and they could not crome it with these on. its a rb26 thanks!

What are the recomended adjustments of the Tomei pulleys? Do you adjust them on a dyno? Or when the engine is out?

Thanks for the good info guys!! I will use arp bolts now. The cams I am using is the tomei 260 type b with adj pulleys. What are the recomended adjustments of the pulleys? Or do I have to adjust them on a dyno? The car will be used as a street car mainly. And it will also be used at tracks and maybe some 1/4 miles

thanks for the comments Pete! Yes, i will deck head and block aswell. It,s a r33 engine so dont need to do any changes with the oil pump drive? I see that the jun pump is ALOT more expensive than nismo, will try to keep i under 7800rpm so I hope the nismo is good enough. for the headgasket, is 1,2 mm thick enough for my application? Isnt the original shotpeened rods good for around 700bhp? The head has been profesionally ported,gasfloved, and rebuildt.(also the combutioncamber) any more help would be great!

I have driven my s13 with a rb26dett conversion for a while now and the compression has started to go down due to high pressure from the garret gt35/40. At this time writing, I am planning a rebuild so I can use the full potensial of the turbo and possibly make 680-700 flywheel hp. It would have been great if you could help me with the engine spec. My plans so far: boring and honing of block polished and balanced crank hks forged pistons 1mm oversize nismo n1 oilpump nismo rod and main bearings jun headstuds hks 1,6mm headgasket tomei rod bolts tomei oil gallery orifice I also plan to shotpeen my original rods and maybe get them polished afterwords. Is there anyone who can tell me how this is done? Anyone who does this for a reasoable amount of money? Do I need anything else to make the bottom end reliable?

Does anyone know where to connect the two wires that comes out of the solenoid valve? The kit is for a rb26dett engine. I have tried the search-link and apexi-usa.com, but with no luck. Can anyone please help?

Doesent anyone at this forum own a hks or greddy single turbo-kit? any help would be nice!