satanic

I was wondering how you got it down to $400, but then I realized you're from Cairns...

Only my flex plate was damaged, the box is fine... it is the worked MV job though. My standard box never really saw much power, well not anything more than 200rwkw. Umm... the plate held for a total of 1 week? Prior to installation it was inspected and was perfect, it was only at 240rwkw at that point though (under the RB25) All in all I think it took about 10-15 dyno runs at 300rwkw+ And let's not forget that the Dyno runs are actually done from start to finish on the one gear, i.e. no changing gears mid way which would no doubt add a lot more forces onto the plate (I would think so anyway).

I don't think it's going to be a very fair comment from me as I do run an auto transmission with a high-stall convertor. Car is still at the tuners (awaiting new flex plate) so all I can go off is the initial graphs. 14 psi is reached at 4,200rpm... I'll post up more info next week after the tuning is finished, as I believe this result can be improved by tweaking the E-01, so far only the F-CON has been tuned and not the EBC.

My ER34 loom was plug n play

Yeah I knew what you meant... If they don't make one, then I hope you're handy with the soldering iron. There was a guy who did one by hand on his Supra and he said it was an absolute mission.

Cool... I'll forward you the bill

With the amount of work required in manual wiring, I'd just cough up the $250-300 for the wiring harness...

Some of you will know about the latest developments to my R34 which involved a RB2630 transplant still using the GTT auto gearbox. Was a long term project (1.5yrs) & was only finished in mid-September. Main obstacle was free-time, but also doing a lot of the R&D involved with tricking the system into thinking it was still running a RB25DET NEO. Anyways, that's all done, it starts, it runs, and it makes power... And in case you thought you read incorrectly, YES! It's STILL AUTO! Bit of History: The gearbox in my car came courtesy of Abo Bob (Adam) and had already received the full works from Mike @ MV Automatics in SA. Anyone who has played with autos in a Skyline before will be able to tell you that Mike does an awesome job with the boxes. The box I believe has been fitted with the shift kit, and been fully rebuilt using stronger items so that it can take much more stress than the standard item. A high stall torque converter has been fitted as well, 2,800rpm worth. We've also fitted up a Davies Craig transmission oil cooler and a DEFI oil temp gauge to keep things in check. We thought it would be OK and would hold up fine... this was a very wild guess as we had no data from others to go by, was kinda paving the path as we ventured along~ Torquing about Problems: Anyways, the car was run in over a 4/5 day period by a couple of people and all around Sydney - it was then sent back for power tuning. Aim was to run a between 1.5-2.0BAR of boost from the Turbonetics GTK 650. Tuning was done in stages to test the limits of the system... thought it'd be better to play it safe than sorry (very paranoid about this after so much time n money spent on it) At 9psi, the car made 240rwkw @ 6,000rpm At 14psi, the car made 330rwkw @ 7,000rpm (487nm) * there is a video on my Youtube Page showing the run that did the damage... link in signature below. Munch Munch Twang Snap - Fail: The 2nd last run of the day which generated 330rwkw was the last straw... the flex plate in the transmission had given up. Weird sounds came from the transmission & the car was promptly cut to prevent further damage. The attached photo shows the extent of the damage after the inspection plate was taken off. Not only were there signs of major stressing on each of the arms, and the very evident cracks / tears. One / two of the arms actually snapped right off (now sits on my shelf as a little momento). Fix: Naturally I was disappointed, but what can you do? I got on the phone with Mike @ MV Automatics that afternoon and racked his brain for a solution. Apparently out of all the Skyline boxes he'd done, I was the first to present this problem to him. It was decided that a new plate was in order, one fabricated from more durable materials and shaped for maximum strength (he advised that the shape of the standard plate was not the best for big power applications). Turnaround time was estimated at 1week provided I sent down a plate for him to take measurements off (next problem). Sourcing the Part: You'd think with the amount of people converting cars to manual etc that these would be in abundant supply... took me a full day to find one! Big thanks to Darrin Spencer for coming forward n answering the SOS. Finished Item: Mike called yesterday afternoon (30/09/2008) to advise that the plate was finished and looked fantastic. There were some issues with his laser cutter guy which added a day's delay on it which he was very apologetic for. This is a description that was given to me over the phone: * Standard ring gear re-used * Pressed-Out Plate design replaced with a Flat Plate Design * 4mm Steel (treated for maximum hardness/rigidity) * Total Cost $470.00 with Express Delivery NOTE: It was perhaps really lucky on my part, but not so much for someone else there just so happened to be another R34 that had gone in with EXACTLY the same problem. Mike had expressed his surprise and was looking into packaging this upgraded flex plate with his existing gearbox upgrades (assuming you get the full works done) Anywho, plate will be back hopefully tomorrow and will be fitted up Sunday to re-commence tuning. Will definitely post up photos of the new item so anyone who's looking at big power from their auto can factor this in as well. Contact Details Mike MV Automatics 1 Stirling Rd Blackwood SA 5051 PH: (08) 8370 0430 FX: (08) 8370 0431

HICAS, the motor is probably screwed in the assembly... before you get too upset, undo the plug, spray it with contact cleaner n see if it works. If not, who cares - buy a $100 lock bar, put it in, and take out the globe (fixed - will actually improve the car) TCS n SLIP, this is a bit of a rough one as it can light up for a few reasons... again, pull the plugs off the TCS motor n clean them. Then crawl under all 4 wheels (maybe just rear 2 I think) and make sure the wheel speed sensors are plugged in. Not having them plugged in will send the ECU crazy thinking your driving on a sheet of ice or something. Engine light, your guess is as good as mine here... but all the essentials that would trigger it (AFM, Coilpacks, Factory Boost Sensor, Knock Sensors, Oil Level). As mentioned earlier, my light came on when we removed half the factory sensors (no use for them) - can't really help with this one. Although, I think you'd be able to use a process of elimination here (AFM shot = car run like poo, Coilpacks shot = car run like poo, Boost Sensor = irrelevant with aftermarket ECU, Engine Oil = check dipstick, Knock Sensors = dunno how to test sorry, assuming voltage output)

Yeah after reading the post above... prob not best to take my advice My car runs perfectly fine with those lights on, reasons will be a little different to yours. HICAS - has been removed TCS OFF - doesn't have TCS stuff anymore SLIP - can't be slipping if it doesn't have TCS Engine Light - I'd like to say it's only because of the missing AFM, but I'm pretty sure it's complaining about other stuff missing too...

Remove old piece, get new pipe, weld on, shove vac cleaner inside to remove any metal filings...

The HICAS, TCS OFF, SLIP and the Engine Light Symbol on my dash are lit up like a Christmas tree always... It's normal, just leave it And if it really gets you paranoid, take the dash out n remove the globe (why spend hundreds finding problems when you can just "cover them up") In all seriousness, I wouldn't be too concerned... I'm not EDIT: Can provide photo evidence if you're in disbelief...

I'm running the following: HKS Twin Power DLi Splitfire Coilpacks for RB25DET NEO HKS Race Plugs (un-touched) RB26/30 motor... So far it runs like a wet dream, but we're only at 1BAR, will see how it goes with 2 - shouldn't be any problems though.

UPDATE: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Stan They are running on the machine right now, Should have them all sent out by tomorrow afternoon Regards Ann Harris Business Manager ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SOLD! Thanks~

Chopping the stock bonnet or the aftermarket one? I've just spaced mine up for now, still looking for inspiration n balls to chop the standard bonnet.

Since you're in the US, why not go for Turbonetics items? Cheap as chips straight from the US.

Have you fitted the bonnet yet?

Cubic printing is a lot more expensive than this film, but it is still a long shot from the price involved with getting parts made in pure CF (been there done that, know all about it) Here's a link of a mob in QLD who do it: http://www.mad-coatings.com/?page=home Personally I think it's a great option as you're guaranteed a flawless finish - sometimes even more flawless than the real thing (due to the laying process involved with real CF). It adds no weight either, but then again it doesn't take away weight. The only thing against it, is that it still looks like film from your standard inspection distance - from afar it looks fine. Still trying to find an alternative to mad-coatings.com, they haven't been too helpful in the enquiries department.

Mmm... I was impressed by the ash tray as that came out sweet. The other bits are a bit 'how you doing'? No indication of your skill, I just don't believe that it's possible to apply this stuff perfectly without the tell-tale signs of "stick on" (things like creases, air bubbles) Have you looked into cubic printing?

Just throwing a question out to everyone - especially URAS - keen to know if people think this goal was actually achieved? I'm aware everyone will have differing views on "responsiveness" but given the graph & stats stated so far, I think it can be a YES / NO answer. Most importantly, is the owner happy? Or does he/she want more?

RIPS NZ is typing - everyone shhhh....

+1 for RIPS, go to GTROC forums from the UK - those guys have money to burn hence why every 2nd car has a RIPS motor in it Their work is absolutely amazing - Rob is an awesome guy to deal with too (given us heaps of info re RB30s for nothing)

It's my birthday on Sunday so I'm feeling generous... $85 + postage/pickup if sold by then.

Morning all, Confirmation email along with a spreadsheet containing your order and delivery details have been sent to Ann. Production will commence immediately, I've asked to be updated on each unit that is finalized and sent so that I can relay that information onto you. Stay tuned... PS: DECIM8, find a hobby, standing by your mail box is sooooooo uncool.