satanic

Blast from the past indeed... Trav33 (PM Replied) To everyone else; I learnt a very important lesson from that incident - always be vigilant about where you leave your car; what you leave in your car and most of all.... HAVE INSURANCE!!! ztuned; thieves that leave your car there are usually oppurtunists - most would not even have the IQ to open a can of baked beans let alone unwiring a radar detector. When I got broken into; the idiots broke 2 windows to open unlock the passenger door, they ignored all the expensive items in the car and just went for the face plate (of which I had a spare, lucky for me). Anyways, keep your guard up peeps!

Hi there I have for sale a used Triple Gauge Cluster + Hood set from the R34GTT. Condition is pretty good; hood could do with a fresh coat of paint (as per the tutorial listed by another SAU Member). Not a scratch on the gauge lenses though. Price: $150.00 ono Contact: PM or stan [AT] 2evolve.com.au Pics: Don't have any but we all know what the gauges look like. Thanks all... Stan

Sorry guys; first come first serve... Mr Cali; the chroming was done overseas... I have no idea how much.

OK; this time round they are officially SOLD! Thank you to benm!!!

PM Sent mrgilly

PM Sent!

Back up for sale; buyer never came through with the money! Now $65.00 delivered!!! All boxed up and ready for find a new home

Good morning all... To the 4 remaining people waiting for these; I sincerely apologize for the delay experienced. I have been in non-stop negotiation / arguements with the supplier over the last few weeks about the remaining items. The last 4 sets were completed late last week; however there was an issue with them which means they will not be sent over to Australia. The money for the last four sets is being wired back into my account; as soon as this happens I will be making a 100% refund to the remaining people. I expect this to happen sometime next week (Thursday / Friday). An individual PM will be sent to the 4 affected people with a transcript of the conversation I have had with my mate (guy who is the contact with the supplier). I apologize guys; I've tried 110% to finalize this order but it was out of my hands. Please await my PM Sincerely, Stan

Hi all, I'm going to Osaka in November too with my girlfriend... our current expenses without even leaving Australia is as follows: Tickets $1000 (for the pair - return) Insurance $112 (for the pair from http://www.travelinsurancedirect.com.au) Accomodation $450 (6 nights at a 3-Star hotel, booking made at http://japanhotel.net ) - cheapest hotel booking place Other expenses that will be required: * Travel to and from Kansai Airport $100 max for 2 people both journeys * Subway / Bus Pass for the trip $200 or so for the pair Budget for Shopping, Eating, Emergency... $5k each should be enough considering we're not there for any major purchases (i.e. car parts, technology) - more for the cultural aspect of things. If anyone stumbles upon cheapy deals / sites - post them up

Hey all, As far as I was told, Matt had sent them off yesterday. They had to get the 1mm restrictors machined up as they had run out at their shop. Thanks Stan

Just use the stock check valve - save yourself $50... Can either of you please explain the necessity for the fuel cooler though?

I'm running a R34 High-Flow from Sliding Performance... We managed to pull 250rwkw from 1 bar (automatic transmission) so that was quite an effort. For under $1000 delivered for the turbo; you can't really go wrong, especially if you're after a sensible / streetable level of power. Other supporting mods apply: Full Exhaust Fuel Pump Injectors Cams (optional) FPR Air Filter Head Gasket ECU blah blah blah... As Andi has said though; suspension and braking is a key component that has to be looked at... without them you won't be able to effectively / safely use the power to be gained. For a list of my mods; visit my site - it's a little off, but it's pretty much the setup for thet 250rwkw. Thanks Stan

We're using the stock GTT pump as the lifter; going into a 2L surge and then through a 044 into the rest... works a charm; and hasn't let us down yet. I guess the only thing you should worry about is whether or not the lift pump will be enough to make sure the surge tank stays full, but the stock pumps should be more than enough. PS: When I was doing mine; the VL Turbo pumps were highly reccomended for a few reasons which evade me now.

I use a variety of cut/polish compounds along with a buffing wheel Turns you from Asian-Boy to Black-Boy really quick, but does the job. This is of course the expensive way to doing it, but also the fastest. Autosol is great for the job too... just got to make sure you're using lots of energy when you're polishing as HEAT is what does a lot of the work.

Hi all, Sorry about the lack of updates... been having some personal issues of late. All the remaining sets are being closely scrutinized before they even make it out of the supplier's workshop to prevent any more returns. I have been assured that each one that gets sent over will not disappoint. I will keep you all posted; it'll happen all very soon. Thanks Stan

LOL Dan; you know I still haven't gotten around to finding out 1) what that problem was/is and 2) what the shift solenoid looks like I'm so lazy... Anyways, yeah listen to Dan - he taught me a thing or two about the A/T box. Else speak to Abo Bob... he's done some research on it too back in the day

Knock?

Need more details to help... can you be a bit more specific on "driven hard" My guess would be fluids; or even the temperatures...

1) Yes it's auto; your point? 2) No, your mod list is nowhere near as varied / many as mine 3) You have a bodykit, wing and wheels - wow... and if you take a closer look at my car; the exterior is far from stock - I just keep it subtle. 4) Comfort? You bought some glorified seat covers 5) KMs? just clicked over 60k kms... and these are genuine; full OEM log book showing all services up until the KM that I got the car - grade 5.5 I admit I haven't much experience in Audio / Visuals - but going off the rest of your car; you'd be lucky to sell for $30k and I'm talking LUCKY to. Do a search of SAU and take a look at the R34s that have sold; see what type of cars have attracted what money. WOOHOOOOOO

1. Insurance + Storage 2. Maintenance 3. Suspension, Engine, Brakes 4. Sound 5. Suspension, Engine, Brakes . . . . . . 999. Aestethics

Anyone?

More mods = more money... woah, my car must be worth a pretty penny! Hell I'll just go get some body kit and it'll be SUPREME!

You are forgetting that Filo's car has a bigger rep than yours... it probably has never been thrashed either. I'm sorry; but it's all up to the buyer's preference. Bodykits n sound systems may do it for some; performance gear and a well looked after car will attract others. Personally; audio visual stuff is the LAST thing I look for when making a purchase (there is nothing unique about audio visuals unlike engine bays where you can get VERY unique.

POO GREEN = Fitting BLACK = Push On Barbs BLUE = Temp Sensor (comes with gauge) + Wires The temp sensor screws into hte fitting... Use gasket goop or similar to stop leakages... or thread tape

I've got an autometer one yes (it's actually an engine oil temp gauge but it's the same thing). You will need to make up your own sender / feeler thing though, my one was a hand-me-down but we have since made ones from plumbing fittings (brass). The whole thing should be shaped in a straight line (ideally) with the temp sensor to the gauge measuring the temp in the middle. However, as we've found on both occasions, such fittings are hard to come by and we've ended up with a L shape fitting. <nipple> - - <fitting>|temp sender|<fitting> - - <nipple> * this is the ideal way to do it... * think of the <fitting> as a solid object that the temp sender just screws into OUR METHOD WAS: |temp sender|<fitting> - - <nipple> ........................- ........................- ....................<nipple> Does this make sense? Sorry the diagram is a bit shitty...