satanic

The one on York Street opp QVB (next to adult book store) Totoya in Neutral Bay Musuya These three would be more your liking then. If I had to choose I'd go for Musuya; it's more a little bit less "traditional" but the food is top-notch and great value. Be sure to book and bring a map or else you'll walk right past it and won't even know it was there.

Well I don't know what type of power I'm hoping to make... The price for hte CDI is not cheap; so if I do get it, it better be worth it. Stezzo = stereo? I'm not too fussed; I've pretty much removed most of my stereo anyway.

Musuya Makoto in Chatswood/Liverpool Street Tetsuya Rengaya The one on York Street opp QVB (next to adult book store) Totoya in Neutral Bay Kenta in Neutral Bay Some small one in Chatswood past Crystal Car wash on the corner All are very nice in my opinion; prices do vary though - especially if you go to Tetsuya

From memory; of the last installation we did with such a front bar; everything can stay where it is - you just need to perfectly align the front mount. The indicators need modification; take them out and get at them with a grinder of some sort. Be careful not to go right through them when removing the plastic. Thanks Stan

Already gave you my advice on Pink Slips - again; nothing will prevent the slip being filled out

Hi guys; Been reading up on the HKS Twin Power units that claim to increase performance by doing things to the spark (ignition modification). Anyone using one of these at the moment and have some more information on how it works and how effective it is? Does it require a re-tune? Thanks Stan

You'll be fine Try telling that to the race team accross the road from us...

Well you answered your own question didn't you Howie 1) It's auto, weak gearbox that will blow up on you if you don't do something about it. 2) The auto zaps a fair amount of power from what you are making and 3) the auto ECU is both a masterpiece and a freak of programming nature. Sure you can stick with your SAFCs etc but soon you'll realize it just isn't enough. 3 options: 1) HKS F-CON V Pro, 2) PowerPlay Rom Tune and 3) Greddy E-Manage Systems R34GTT also has a bigger turbo - most of you have forgotten this one which is the main reason for the power difference. Other things different; the brakes, the suspension, the HICAS system, electronics, NCVS etc etc. Companies don't release a new variant of a car to make it take steps backwards; they release them to show what new and IMPROVED things they've done to it.

Forgot to say the above cost doesn't include labour and tuning costs so add on approximately $2k.

$4200 and you will have around 230-250rwkw FMIC $400 (any cheapy copy) Turbo Back Exhaust $1000 Slide Turbo $900 Power FC $1000 EBC $400 Fuel Pump $200 FPR $200 Pod Air Filter $100 * Above prices are rough estimates; obviously prices fluctuate and change depending on when you get it and what you get. It's not hard to draw power from the R34GTT; most of the members here have done the pioneering "research" into what works and what doesn't so all you have to do is read and fork out the cash. NOTE: * Auto R34GTTs are a complete headache to modify; I've spent a tonne of hours and dollars going around in circles trying to make things work (yes, one of the pioneers here). So even though you might save a few thousand on the cost of the car; you definitely won't keep that in your wallet for long once you start modifying * Manual R34GTT; just follow the conventional methods of modification to any turbocharged car (except for the Cam gears, they do nothing)

Hi guys, I have for sale a standard R34GTT Fuel Pump with the intake sock assembly... pump came out of the car ages ago and has just been sitting around the workshop doing nothing so I thought it's time for it to go! Pump is clean as the day it came out from Nissan; works 100% and is ready to be shipped out~ Price: $75.00 + Postage ($5-$10 max) Location: Sydney, Northern Beaches - pick up is OK Interest: Post up here or send me a PM Photos: No need; we all know how boring a standard fuel pump looks! Thanks Stan

If you want to get them off then just rip them off - taking care you un-bend the 3-4 brackets that are holding it to the rubber too. Then go out and get a can of Prepsol; a plastic scraper of some sort (don't use a razor blade); a high bar stool; and maybe a 6 pack. Apply Prepsol to the remanents of the double sided tape - it'll "freeze" over... use the scraper to quickly get as much as you can off. Repeat process until it's all gone. Once it's all off; hit the rubber with some polish and it's all sweet! Be prepared to stay there for a good few hours

I believe the R34 box is a Jatco box itself. The benefit of the R34 box is that it has the tiptronic function.

Added some photos!

I doubt this will happen but what happens if I win outright power? They won't be able to tune my car Anyways, this sounds like a great event already - will most probably be making an appearance. Time I got that new power figure.

Man I'm stinging to put the car on the dyno again

If you're worried about performance; invest in a PWR core and have the piping made up or buy a piping kit.

Pros n Cons: PROS: 1) Retains the factory engine bay look I guess 2) No need to trim the engine fan 3) No need to drill through the chasis 4) Legal? CONS: 1) Makes area in engine bay quite crowded which can be a problem later on. 2) Cannot accomodate for a front facing plenum later on 3) Makes the front of the car look one sided as all the pipes go back to one side 4) Scraping 5) Cost v Benefit Sure the setup may look neater from the engine bay but believe me it does get quite crowded in that region later on - particularly if you're looking for places to put things like catch cans, breather tanks etc.

One was a kit from JustJap; and the other was a Trust one I think... May I ask why you want to retain the stock piping setup? There are pros and cons to this setup you know?

They didn't mention it in SMH, but it got mentioned in the Daily Telegraph...

We've installed FMICs on R34s on two seperate occasions with the Nismo bar - NO cutting whatsoever.

With the Nismo Front Bar; any intercooler so long as it is installed correctly will not need the bar to be cut. I'm speaking of 600x300x76 FMIC cores... haven't tried; but I'm confident that 100mm cores will fit too

Lock those 'lines up boys - time for another Operation Hoon crackdown by the boys in blue... PHWOOA!!! did you see that one coming?

That is the option; I can rip it out for you and send it to MV

That's crazy!!! Awesome find...