clayoth

Sold

Wheels are sold, pending payment.

Yes, I'd be happy to sell the damaged rim.

Oh, I thought I put an image up... Silver

For sale: 3 x Nismo LMGT4 18 x 9.5 +12 offset One of the set was damage, hence just 3 for sale. Open to selling as singles/pair if someone else also needs to replace a damage wheel. They are straight, with original coating/decals. They have a the usual scuffs and marks expected from 90K's of street driving. $450 each, or $1200 for the 3. More photos will be available on request. (...otherwise I am wanting to buy a single or pair in this size to recreate a set...)

Looking forward to my first official event with the 300ZX.

Thanks mate! Enquiry sent...

Wanting to buy cabin carpet for R34 GTR in good condition.

Wanting to buy a car trailer to cart around a GTR. Looking for something that will work with a low car, so either tilt or duck tail. Preferrably in Vic, but SA or NSW also OK.

Beautiful car! I was on the forum (haven't been around for a while), thinking about selling my R34 GTR. But not now.... Inspired!

Cheers...

allblitz, Not sure whether a GTT exhaust will fit??? Anyone know..?

If you dont' ask... Constable Plod was good enough to hit me a defect notice on my GTR last week for insufficient ground clearance. Would anyone in or about Melbourne have a standard (cat back) R34 GTR exhaust in their shed that they would consider renting (for say, a box of beer) for a day? Cheers Clayton..

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm This seems harsh. However, this is the approach that I used for my track WRX. I did the first 30km on the street (up to 10psi boost, 1/2 and then full throttle, up to about 5500 revs) and then changed the oil. Did the balance of the run in on the track (12psi boost, full throttle, 6500rpm limit), followed by another oil change. I used mineral oil for the run-in plus two more events, then synthetic (Penrite 25/60). The engine is strong and the rings have bedded-in nicely.

Absolutely brilliant!! This should be in VIC. I would be there with bells on. I have been wanting move up a rung on the pyramid of speed (I currently only do club sprints), but have been unexcited at the prospect of restricting my currently extremely-fun-to-drive WRX to fit into IP. It seems quite unlikely that a WRX will be competitive in this series and I don't find anything attractive about going into a sport (series) when there is little chance of success. I may have misinterpreted some of the previous comments. However, I am all for - if the rules don't suit take your bat and ball and start a new game. That to me is common sense. If other people start lining up to play your new game, then you have probably done a good thing. I have been watching the IP Late Model debate for a while and it seems that there has been a bit of lobbying over the past couple of years (please correct me if I'm wrong). It would seem that the series is still weighted toward non-turbo and earlier model vehicles. That's great and I don't necessarily see the benefit of changing rules in a series that is working and potentially causing disadvantage to the current competitors. (Besides that, it seems to a chicken-or-egg thing... if there were more late model vehicles in IP, then there would be more support for changing the regs. However, without changes to the regs, where is the incentive to get started???) This Tas series sounds brilliant!!!

Sydneykid I don't have any so I can't get the measurements. I was wondering in you know what the standard R34 GTR spring rates are? Cheers...

It wasn't me. The HICAS did it. It appears that the only damage that will require $$ is the rear bumper. The skirts need to be re-fitted and a bit of polish should sort out the rest. For anyone that is interested, the data logger has confirmed that Michelin Pilot Sports max out at about 1.1g.

Post tips on how to keep these things pointing forward here.

Please count me in for two meters and two plugs. Thanks..!

Does the PEII flow well? Would you expect that there would be a power drop over say, an Apexi N1 or similar? Cheers...

This is a bit off topic I guess, but.... how can you say a lightened flywheel doesn't cause driveability issues. You could say that in your case (and probably many other cases) it hasn't. But, if you are passing on accurate information to those who haven't had experience, then you should add that a lightened flywheel "can" cause issues. Consider the basic physics. Using an extreme case to illustrate the point - If there were no flywheel the engine would have very little momentum and trying to get the clutch out (from a standing start) without stalling would be nearly impossible. Things that will affect whether driveability is impacted by a lightened flywheel are: 1. How much lighter the flywheel is, and 2. What type of clutch you are using I have a 5.5kg billet flywheel and a fairly bitey 5 puck clutch and the difference is quite noticeable. It is a track car, so I don't care. I personally would not use the same configuration for the street, as I would find it annoying to use in traffic.

Right on. I agree that the flywheel will offer greater performance benefit from an inertia perspective (hence, I have one in my track car). However, you do pay for it with driveability. The driveshaft offers less bang for buck, but if I had an infinite supply of loot, I'd buy one. Another benefit to a lighter flywheel is that it spins faster than the driveshaft in the gears lower than 4th. As such, it needs to accelerate faster and therefore offers further potential gains from lightening. The driveshaft spins faster than the wheels, but with 4 wheels there is a greater opportunity for weight saving.

It's not the same as lightening the flywheel. The flywheel gives the engine end of the drive train additional momentum, which assists with maintaining revs (helps you to not stall) when you let the clutch out. This improves driveability. There are some other benefits during gear changes. A lighter driveshaft (or lighter wheels) will not have this effect on driveablility, as they are on the other side of the clutch. There is no downside - beside the cost.