Freebaggin

Turn it up BoughBoy, as if he's gonna stuff around with setting up twins. Show us Merli's dyno to prove that his mid range is good.

Who's organising forum name tags? :uhh:

Thanks a lot paulr33, but I've heard all of that stuff before, also not interested in cam gears info, only proper HKS, Jun, Tomie etc etc cam installs. I (and many others I'm sure ) only want to see dynos charts before and after with the single mod of a cam upgrade.....no chatting about it, just dyno charts. Cheers.

So who's done cams on any turbo RB with no other things added and has before and after dyno charts to show us scrubbers? Thanks in advance.....(BTW, no definative thread on the subject I could find).

Yeah I know but I was just givin Roy some pointers to other places I think are OK, you know maybe when he has another night/day free.

Sorry maybe a bit late now but I reckon in the city somewhere near either: * Rundle Street *West end of Hindley Street *North Terrace west of King William Rd Otherwise: *Anywhere along/near O'Connell Street in Nth Adel. *Along Melbourne Street, but more near the city end *Anywhere in Glenelg (beach area) but as close as possible to Mosley Square or Holdfast Shores *Last bit not least, somewhere near Henley Square (beach as well), bit quieter but a couple of good pubs. Some good pubs, but too many to list: Kings Head (CBD) Queens Head (Nth Adel) Oxford (Nth Adel) Old Lion (Nth Adel) The Pier Bar (Holdfast Shores) The Grand (not too bad - Glenelg) Crazy Horse of course (Hindley Street)

Nothin special mate but a good enough. In Nth Adel of course but a fraction away from the main Melb St activity. However generally close enough to most stuff as well as Adel CDB, especially if pissed and need taxi.... :freak: Also about 500m from Old Lion. They giving you a car? Who do you work for?

Thanks guys. Actuall I should clarify, idle quality is OK, it just stalls under certain conditions with the current fueling I have. I had a go on the way home from work....plenty of bloody idling opportunities!... and increased from 14° prgressively to 16°. Was funny though, woudl still stall sometimes but other time with all parameters the same it would be OK. The ECU has other idle functionality I need to play with so I'll keep ya posted. Edit: Just read in book that 15-32° is typical for motors, so I'll jack it right up and see how it goes.

I have programable ECU and wanted peoples opinion on the best idle ignition timing to use, it's currently 14°. I have idle probs sometimes but I have big injectors, light flywheel, big turbo and exh cam timing retarded that don't help. I have also played with fuel (dropped) to improve city cycle fuel econ. so I can easily increase it up again to get rid of problem but I want to be more smart about it. Apart from trying it, will an increase in timing from 14° improve idle quality and reduce stalling etc?

Sounds good. Where is the best place to source one of those Holley TBs?

Clint, do you have a pic of your new plenum? Maybe showing runners from the bottom side? I'm thinking of new TB as well, every bit helps to keep pressure drops low once flows increase. Bit I found somewhere: Why use a bigger throttle body/Intake plenum? There is a great deal of discussion on the need for an improved intake manifold or larger throttle body on a Forced induction vehicle. In order to better explain the need for this I have pieced together this step by step look at why it is necessary. My personal knowledge of this subject is in its early stages so special thanks to those that assisted for explaining it to me and performing the calculations so I can pass the info on. Corky bell is world renowned for his knowledge on turbo charged vehicles and states that “A maximum air velocity of approximately 300 ft/sec thru a throttle body will keep flow losses acceptable” This is because at speeds above this aerodynamic drag will create unacceptable flow loss (ie Pressure Drop) In order to work out the air velocity for any engines intake there are a set group of formula’s and information required. To illustrate this point I am using the details on a highly modified 3TGTE engine as owned by a Toymods forum member. Please keep in mind this is a small area of things we are looking at and needs to be considered as part of the big picture. Airflow Rate Airflow rate = (cid x rpm x 0.5 x Ev) / 1728 cid = Cubic Inch Displacement rpm = Revs Per minute 0.5 = This is due to the fact that a 4 stroke cycle engine only fills its cylinders only on one half the revolutions. Ev = the volumetric efficiency of the engine ( I am using 85% as a average figure of a well designed system) 1728 converts cubic inches to cubic feet. That being the case the 3TGTE in question yields the following equation: Airflow = (110 x 7200 x 0.5 x .85) / 1728 Base airflow or cfm = 195 Pressure Ratio The Pressure Ratio is the total absolute pressure produced by the turbo divided by atmospheric pressure. Therefore atmospheric is 14.7 absolute pressure. Pressure Ratio = (Boost + 14.7) / 14.7 In this example we are using and extreme boost level of 38 PSI Pressure Ratio = (38 + 14.7) / 14.7 Pressure Ratio = 3.6 Please keep in mind this is an ideal ratio assuming the ideal filter element and pipework etc is used. Any other areas of increased aerodynamic drag will add pressure to the atmospheric division value used. For example with an Oil filled pod type filter is not uncommon to have a pressure drop of up to 2 PSI thus producing a value of 12.7 on the base of the equation and an actual pressure ratio of 4.14 Now that we know the Pressure ratio and base cfm we can calculate the engines flow rate under boost. This is quite simply: Boost Airflow rate = Basic cfm x pressure ratio Boost airflow rate in this case = 195 x 3.6 = 702 cfm !!!! Air Velocity OK now we can get to the juicy bit. The stock 3TGTE throttle body is 2 inch in diameter. (So is the 2TGEU) Air velocity = airflow rate / Area of section The airflow rate is simple the airflow rate expressed in second (The cfm/60) The area of section is the area of the throttle body divided by the area in inches of a foot to convert it to ft per second ( the Throttle body area in inches / 144) To calculate the area of a circle use the equation pr2 (Note: a 2 inch diameter (50mm) throttle body yields an area of 3.14 inches 2) Therefore air flow rate in this case = 702 / 60 = 11.7 Area of Section in this case = 3.14 / 144 Area of section = 0.021805555 Air Velocity = 11.7 / 0.021805555 Air Velocity = 536.56 ft/sec ! By comparison this exact same set up as fitted with a 70mm Throttle body (2.8 inches) would yield an Air Velocity of 273.50 ft/sec Conclusion No-one ever hesitates at the suggestion of fitting a sports exhaust or air filter. Hopefully this will help to show the benefits achieved by installing a custom intake plenum or more importantly a larger throttle body.

Since having prog ECU (for over two years now) with digital water readout, I have been able to monitor exact water temp. I have R33 with of course RB25DET. The thermostat setpoint has is 82°C. However whenever I either drive up hills or use some boost (still light load stuff) it will rise to 86°C pretty quickly. If I give it max throttle for a while it will rise to 90°C very quickly and at track days at Mallala it will reach 98°C after "only" 3 laps. I have completely stock water cooling except for now an N1 water pump that is apparently much better for cavitation (or lack of) but even with this mod the temp goes up, but it is better. Also no oil cooling. Having said that, the Nissan dash water temp guage still reads OK even at 98°C. Another thing, I live in a foothills location and the drive to the city is mostly very very slight downhill. It takes ~20minutes to reach operating temp in the morning. Whereas my wife's 2001 VW Passat takes a very very short time to reach op temp under the same conditions. Is my temp hike I get a problem or just normal? Is the slow warm up time normal? Is the problem maybe an old/sticky thermostat? Or something else?

Yep, old hat that one but I was due for an avatar change and picked that one. Chris32, pick or prick or pic?

Any luck with heavier spring?

Was waiting for a reply from you

I agree, cheap 4cyl crap. No offence to any SR owner :wassup: Remember this is a skyline forum so ANYTHING else is CRAP.

Very nice analogy Grepin.

Ain't much different from Sydney really in late August-Sept, same lattitude. Warmer than Melb for sure but it sure ain't Dunk Island either

Not 100% sure what exh housing. 2.5L, full boost by 3400rpm, power drop off on dyno above 7000, but on the road still worth revving to 7300rpm, so 4000rpm odd rev range is good for me.

It's all above. Joel, No split dump. I'm much more confident it will make 300+ with more boost and cams (I'm just not going to try for a while as it has stock pistons and I drive it every day). Tim has has very little to do with my setup for some time now and is probably pretty unfamiliar with what turbo he actually got me. I only run a bit over 17psi and get 280rwkW, plenty more to come. Look at Whatsisname's power with the boost increase from 14 to 23?? psi, 250 to 300 (OK, 299.1 or something), give or take some other bits and pieces, but not a huge amount. YEah sorry Clint, but it along the same lines as your thread tittle. But please tell us to piss off whenever you want

Joel, The 0.82 will be good for the 3L. Will you just get an off-the-shelf complete Garrett turbo and then fabricate a manifold + ext gate or go for a Tim or XTR style int gate hybrid like mine. To be honest, all the effort you are doing with motor mayeb better to go ext gate and fully designed manifold. My power drops off when I go past 7200-7300, might be internal gate restriction in exhaust??????? Steve-SST, Do you remember what "moderate" boost was for 435rwhp?

Yeah, no doubt with an external gate it would be a bit better for flow and I would go with that setup as it's optimal compared to mine but my original aim was "only" 250rwkW and it's doing it easy. Mate, it all comes down to the ultimate power you want and why...for bragging or for dragging or do you want a circuit/Adel hills beast. For me 2.5L and 600HP in the hill would be just too hard to handle and not "fun", torque band is just too narrow. But for draggin and braggin, that's a different story. If it were me I'd go slightly smaller in wheel size and just run more boost, particularly if you have nice forged pistons. Nothing wrong with 1.5-1.7 bar if the motor and coolling system can handle it. So I'd recomend a GT3040 CHRA with 0.7 comp cover and 0.82 exhaust and simply see what you get. You'll have a much higher rev range than me so don't worry, you should have a nice big tourque band to play with

Head work etc looks good. Don't worry about surge, basically I have a GT3040 CHRA with the 82mm comp wheel but with 0.6a/r comp housing plus the 0.63a/r exh housing.........it does not surge at all, it's fantastic actually.....but it won't make 600HP. The compressor wheel size is good for 600HP (better with a 0.7a/r) but you'll essential need less restriction in the exhaust side to achieve that number so that's where the GT35 comes in + maybe a 0.82a/r, but it's more important to have a big exhaust wheel (particlarly a big outlet diameter) to prevent back pressure at high revs. If you aimed for say 520HP then a GT30/40 would do it with ease with the right support gear on the motor and with less lag ....... but that's the compromise eh.

600HP is alot and if you want that much you need a very big turbo and therefore lag. I have GT30 with "600HP" rated compressor wheel with 0.63 exhaust housing and internal gate. I get 280rwkW at 1.2bar, but I think if I was game (stock pistons ATMO) and ran 1.5bar I would easily get over 300rwkW. From what I read that's about 360kW at the flywheel which is "only" 480HP. You know approx my setup Clint. Even with nice aggressive cams and head work that I assume you are doing to get to 600HP I reckon you'd surely need the GT35 with the 0.82, run 1.5 at a min and use lots of revs.

Very nice. It's funny how long these things can take, but you've has a lot of ups and downs with your car for so long. With the same fundamental mechanical package it's gone from 180 to ~300. It's good to have that development and optimisation over time. BTW....GO THE GARRETT/MICROTECH LEGENDS VS THE TWO LOCAL HKS/POWER FC SLY AND DIRTY ENEMY! The war continues