Ryan1200

If you know someone handy with a lathe you could make some spigots to convert down to 11mm. This is a efi hardware adaptor for a Sr20 down to a 14mm injector.

I used a heat gun to slightly heat the yellow section then just flicked it off with a screw driver it should pop off does a little bit of force. What your left with is the same metal part showing on the standard 26 injector in the picture. You then need the new pintle cap thats suits the indy injector which just pushes on then it will suit the standard rubber on the inlet manifold... Hope that makes sense

To avoid machining your rail just machine the tops of the injectors to suit 11mm. In a lathe you need to remove a small amount from the top plastic part of the injector so it fits up into the rail. With 11mm orings in place the injectors fit nicely into the 11mm rail... If you need 11mm bottoms contact injectors online and they will sell you 11mm caps to suit indys. Just remove the yellow piece and oring and push on the new 11mm pintle cap and your done...

Make that 1 set of cheap 2000's available..... Thanks PJ

Price Drop $600

Emailed some info to another SAU member and thought id post it up here aswell: This shifter is used to prevent missed gear changes mainly in dog engagement gearboxes. I messed up once and it cost me. This is how it works. The outer aluminum shaft of the shifter is spring loaded up and down, the first picture is in street mode you can freely shift into all gears. Second picture is when its in drag mode, the outer shaft drops down and is ready for the 1st to 2nd shift. Once the shifter passes the step it cannot jump back up and into 1st gear and can only go to 3rd. In drag mode the shifter cannot be changed into 5th or reverse. The front of the gear knob has a small U shape cut out, this is for the grub screw to fall into when its in street mode which holds the out shaft up... The shifter has a aluminum spacer that bolts to the gearbox that raises the pivot point up like normal quick shifter... In a way is almost like a straight line shifter just pull it back and push it forward... For normal use the standard shifter is much easier for daily driving with the dog box, it did take a little bit to of time to get the timing back for smooth operation of the dog gears but not to bad. Sorry for the low quality iphone pics.... Ryan

Thanks for the reply madaz i cant get into the menu to init it unforuntely its funny it worked fine a few years back now nothing...

You must know both sides of the story to dig up a post from another thread... Is that you swiper the accountant??

Has anyone had this type of problem before?? My 33GTR Powerfc Pro is not linking up with my handcontroller or FC datalogit. My GTR has a normal FC running at the moment so i know the hand controller and datalogit are fine, but the pro wont link up although starts the car and runs, abit rough as its a unknown tune from the prevous owner... When i purchased the pro 3years ago, i hooked it up and everything worked fine, i varified it was the PRO and let it sit ever since... Anyone had a similar issue??

6 x Brand New bosch indy blue injectors suit RB26 11mm top 11mm bottom. Bosch no. 0280150842 $ 650 Post a picture tomorrow

Ended up being another level sensor thats mounted right at the bottom of the tank possibly for the fuel light.

I have a tank removed from the car, today ill see if i can see inside to what they run to..

http://www.motec.com.au/forum/index.php?si...8fbe0613d4d47ad Might pay to ask the question on the motec forum aswell.. Good luck with it..

Yeah i know its a bit of an overkill for what i do i just need to find some motivation to pull the car apart again to make the change as it hasnt missed a beat for a few years and i only drive it once a month. When i built the box i had plans of tracking the car but never finished off the brakes/suspension/tyres/cage ect ect $$$$...

PPG Straight Cut Dog engagement application - For someone that only uses the box on the street no track days and no clutchless shifting (ok twice when i first installed the box) what sort of life span should we get out of the billet forks before they become a worry?? Periodically iv checked the magnet on the drain bung and there is very little material from the dogs left there... Iv only done about 8000kms on it and the shift quality is still like the day i installed it.

Any other info on the 120y engine setup ect?

Looks like mercury has a similar design aswell.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...R3-t320243.html

The progress of this car is nothing short of amazing your team is a class act paul... What better way to advertise the BMS auto box with the wheels up and consistent 8sec passes. Looks like i lll be placing my order for a 4spd soon.. Nice work

Check all your earths make sure every things tight and clean. I had a loose alternator earth which was causing my 4wd and ABS lights to come on took me about a week to track the fault down was very painful... Hope its something easy...

Lukass 33 Prices for the CES stuff can be found here: http://www.cesracing.com.au/products_2.htm

Yes highmount kit has been sold..

Hks Electronic Torque Split Controller - Electronic Drag Adaptor $1050 SOLD PowerFC boost controll kit $325 33GTR Shell $1000 Brand new injector resistor suit 32 33 GTR $110

Price Adjustment: Hks Electronic Torque Split Controller - Electronic Drag Adaptor $1050 PowerFC boost controll kit $350 32GTR Engine wiring harness direct PNP into S13 SR20 Silvia/180Sx $650 33GTR shell $1200

Standard 33GTR Airbox SOLD....

I had similar issues pumping redline lightweight out the breather tube in my ppg straight cut. I ran the normal breather to highest point but still pumped oil. I had the gearbox out for some reason and decided to add second breather to the inspection plate on top of the box and ran it up into the engine bay. This fixed my problem 100% and hasnt pumped a ml since... Hope this helps.