Zensoku

Yes, I can confirm that these R34 coil packs can be used in series 2 R33's. Because I have done the reverse! I am running series 2 R33 coils in my R34! They have the internal ignitor and will bolt straight up. They are a little wider on the base, but still fit up ok (doesn't interfere with anything) Good Luck with the sale and a free bump!

Thanks for the offer, but R32 GTR pump and cradle assembly won't suit my tank I'm afraid... R33 / R34 GTR are interchangeable apparently. I only need the cradle and strainer part for my bosch intank conversion.

1. WTB: R33 / R34 GTR factory airbox & snorkel needed for reverting pod filters back to standard to meet compliance. 2. Also, if also available, the hose belonging to the lower airflow meter to the front turbo. 3. Complete R33 or R34 GTR fuel pump and cradle assembly with strainer - can be dead or alive... (using for bosch intank conversion)

I'm in for R34 series 1 un-powdercoated. PM sent!

My RB25 has started dropping down onto 5 cylinders very randomly, which I initially thought was a misfire with the spark plugs. Used to happen under load 3500-5000rpm which prompted me to change the plugs... Plugs didn't help, and now it seems more regular now and drives like a "lumpy V8" most of the time now instead of the few seconds it used to drop a cylinder.... During the painstaking process of changing the plugs, I quickly put the multimeter onto each coil and got: Cylinder 1: 852 Ω Cylinder 2: 903 Ω Cylinder 3: 687 Ω Cylinder 4: 809 Ω Cylinder 5: 859 Ω Cylinder 6: 851 Ω Now, these figures seem very high compared to the series 1 RB25's, (0.7Ω is the norm?) but I believe my coil packs have the igniter built into them. (unlike the early RB25's which have the igniter inline before the coils) I have a Japanese Engine manual, but couldn't find anywhere how to properly test these coils and what the normal values are.... Can anyone help? Cylinder 3 looks like the culprit.... Oh, and the ECU self-diagnosis mode shows up error number 21: Ignition Circuit - "No consecutive ignition signal while the engine is running"

***************************** THIS ITEM IS NOW SOLD ************************************** This is a brand new and unfitted Twin plate clutch from Exedy which was incorrectly ordered and now up for auction at a fraction of the cost of a new one... Price one up for yourself... Since direct ebay linking is banned in this forum, further details can be found in the SDU For Sale thread Comes complete with everything pictured including new flywheel bolts - ready to bolt in. Please note it is a pull type clutch, meaning the pressure plate needs to be pulled to be disengaged. This was the reason why this clutch was incorrectly ordered, as this will not suit Skylines with a push type disengagement. Therefore, this clutch kit, part number NM042SD ,which will support up to 700HP, will only suit: Nissan Skyline R32 GTR RB26DETT 02/93 onwards. (late model) Nissan Skyline R33 GTR RB26DETT (all models) Nissan Skyline R34 GTT RB25DET Also, this clutch is fully serviceable with all parts available and also is able to be converted to a triple plate if the need arises. As a starting point, I'm looking for over $1375 AUD for this new clutch. ***************************** THIS ITEM IS NOW SOLD **************************************

can anybody else confirm?

Guys, I have an opportunity to buy a low km dash cluster from an R34 GTR which has just had a new Nismo dash fitted. Just want to know if the R34 cluster will plug straight into the loom on my R34 GTS? I am offering him $150. Is this realistic?

omp, the setup you have there, is a 100% legal mod, because what you have done is basically introduced a tank plumbed inline into the standard return lines back into the intake (before the turbo) You have also removed the PCV valve (another silly thing to say like ATM Machine?!? Positive Crankcase Valve Valve:p) which basically means your engine won't be breathing in crankcase blow-by when you are cruising/idling (off boost) through that valve. The setup you have now, will simply allow the crankcase vapour to condense and return to oil inside the catch can, and "hopefully" cleaner vapour will be sucked into the turbo inlet... All those catch cans with the "mini air filter" which acts as the breather (no return line to the inlet) are asking for a police defect.... very illegal mod on a street car...

if you know someone with a smaller harmonic balancer puller, this will work too. done it many times, in probably less than a minute to get off too. save the frustration, do it properly!

want cheap Nismo parts, ex-Japan, try Nengun. www.nengun.com

grab a hold of an R33 service manual, for the specs on an RB25DET. Those RB26DETT specs were straight out of my R32 GTR service manual

Guys, when the conversation of what how much money i spend on cars comes up, i usually respond with a "don't want to know" because lets face it, we love doing up cars, thats our passion and we should be doing like the Mastercard ads: Twin HKS GT2530 turbos: $XXXX 90mm stainless exhaust: $XXXX Dyno run and tune: $XXX Hearing the RB26 sing it's beautiful exhaust note all the way up to redline and embaressing old-school V8 drivers? ....PRICELESS.....

guys, if you've ever tried calling NGK for a recommendation, they have actually told me to sell BKR6E plugs to skyline drivers if they want a cheaper copper core option to the more expensive Platinum and Iridium tip long-life plugs (only differerence is the greater resistance to fouling) Reason behind the "K" instead of the "CP" is that the "CP" is a projected tip type plug and NGK have discovered that the "K" recessed type plug seems to complete combustion more effectively due to the shape of the cylinder head "squish zone".... that will add more discussion to your thread (adding to the numerous hundreds of other spark plug threads on here) Oh, and yes totally agree with the gapping and heat range advice above. Buying NGK plugs without the "-11" should give you the default 0.8mm gap.

I have this program too. Putting all of the below stats into it showed a graph which was very similar to what Nissan shows as factory output of the RB26DETT in an R32 GTR: RB26DETT Bore: 86.0mm Stroke: 73.7mm Intake Valve: 34.5mm Exhaust Valve: 30.0mm Compression ratio: 8.5 Lifter: Solid Cam Specs @ seat to seat Int Lift @ Valve: 8.58mm Exh Lift @ Valve: 8.28mm Intake Valve Open (BTDC): 7.0 degrees Intake Valve Close (ABDC): 53.0 degrees Exhaust Valve Open (BBDC): 63.0 degrees Exhaust Valve Close (BTDC): 7.0 degrees with the above specs, all the other data will be automatically calculated by Dyno2000, like cylinder cc volume, total cc volume, combustion cc volume, and camshaft specs like Lobe centres, valve overlap, int & exh duration. It's all maths... very interesting program once you start playing around with the turbo specs, although it is hard to find data on the CFM flowrates of certain turbos unless you went to the trouble of going to a turbo specialist and flowbench each and every turbo... Have fun, but use it as a GUIDE only... I have the save file of the above specs i gave you if you want it. Cheers, Zen.

so yeah, setup number 1 would be ideal, but it's certainly a waste of intercooled air if it vents atmospherically... still reckon hybrid is the way to go if you want the sound and functionality of what a bypass valve is supposed to do.

fatgts-r, i should have been more careful with my explanation. i think you understood the point i was making, but you also picked up on my mistake. good spot! setup number 2 is the culprit. not setup number 1. all GTR skylines are setup like situation number one. have you heard an gtr owners complain about boost leaks?

guys, depends on the individual setup on your car... is it mounted: 1. After the intercooler and before the throttle body? or... 2. After the turbo and before the intercooler? reason i ask is because if there is a pressure variance between what's actually trying to "push" the BOV open and what's running down it's vacuum hose, then you're bound to get leaks. I wouldn't be quick to blame the BOV to be at fault. As quite often than not, the problem can be associated with situation number 2 (above). In most situations, for example, there might be 15psi coming from the turbo compressor housing, but by the time the boost pressure makes its way through the intercooler and piping, this pressure may have dropped to say 12 psi due to intercooler and piping restrictions... The pressure in the inlet manifold which travels down the vacuum line to the BOV will not being "enough" to hold the BOV shut when the throttle is open. Hence, your leaks you are reporting...

Yes R32 GTR ecu's are chipable. (I have one) To add more useless information to this thread, Apexi Power FC computer's are interchangeable between R32 and R33 GTR...

Ok, I know I'll be hearing the typical "There's one in every crowd!" but here goes: 1 Bar = 14.50377 psi = 0.9869233 atmosphere = 75.00617 cm of mercury = 29.52999 inches of mercury = 1.019716 kg/cm2 = 100 kpa = 1000000 dyne/cm2 = 1.044272 tons/foot2 = 750.0617 torr. ...and the list goes on. Have fun quoting that your car runs "x" tons per square foot boost pressure.

phew, thank gawd! at least there is another mature person on here that doesn't start bagging Commodore drivers, as soon as it is mentioned. Like you, i have nothing against people who drive any type of car. Working in automotive retail, i see all types of cars which cater for different driver's needs. in my case, it is purely transport (i haven't been tempted to perform one single mod! that's what the other car is for) i'd be covering all bases by checking everything on a dyno. i know it is expensive at around $80+ an hour. but things like a/f ratios, fuel pressure, vacuum/boost pressure, RPM, timing, lambda analysing, injector duty cycle, inlet/water/oil/exhaust temps can all be monitored in a controlled environment. That way you can easily eliminate things you thought may have been a problem. failing that, get a hold of a 100psi fuel gauge and check fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum hose on and off (should be a change) Don't forget to idle the engine and remove the fuel pump fuse! This will let the car stall to deplete the fuel pressure in the lines before you fit the fuel pressure gauge! or you will get a nasty surprise! Since i only have an R32 service manual, here are the Nissan fuel pressure specs for an RB25DE: When ignition switch is ON: Approx. 3.0 kg/cm2 (42.67003 psi) During idling: Approx. 2.55 kg/cm2 (36.26953 psi) Idling with vacuum hose removed: Approx. 3.0 kg/cm2 (42.67003 psi) not sure if it is the same for RB25DET. i'd imagine it would be, but can anyone else confirm?

:uh-huh: yeap! :uh-huh: spot on. although those figures will vary slightly depending on the brand and concentration of the ethylene glycol content of the coolant. I couldn't find a link for Tectaloy, but the Nulon and Castrol links in my previous posts point to what i consider the main players of concentrates.

hmmm, you're not supposed to mix two different types/brands of coolants. reason being that they can actually react against eachother and accelerate corrosion. Should try to at least drain the radiator and undo the drain plug on the block. otherwise, drop the bottom radiator hose and drain it all and flush the whole system with a hose while the heater is set to hot and turned on. that way, you'll get rid of all of the old coolant running inside the car for your heater.

The factory fuel pressure regulator works just like any other manufacturer's... I also have a Commodore V6, dead stock, as my daily driver. (please don't laugh! at least i get to appreciate the modern Japanese cars alot more) This also has a vacuum line connected to the inlet plenum. All EFI fuel regs vary the pressure, dependant on vacuum. Or in turbo/supercharged cars, boost. There are two aftermarket types: Ones that are purely adjustable up and down only. This only moves the whole pressure versus vacuum/boost curve up and down. The other type is the rising rate adjustable regs which you can actually skew the whole pressure curve in ratios. you can have a ratio of 8:1 for example, which would multiply "x" amount of fuel pressure for every pound of boost. Basically more boost being produced, more fuel pressure. these are hard to setup perfectly, apparently.

But bear in mind that if a concentrate glycol coolant were used over around 65% with water, you would actually have overheating problems. You are correct though about the car's capacity to actually remove heat in the first place. Not trying to sound smart, but glycol has the ability to stabilise and transfer heat more evenly than water - nuclear thermodynamics. Here is some links to specs on good quality coolants: http://www.nulon.com.au/content/tech_ll.htm http://www.castrol.com.au/products/pdf/B11...reeze%20350.pdf