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hmmmm. :nowigetit if the ECU is stock with the original loom and sensors/actuators, except for the mentioned rising rate regulator, then i think you'd be right on the money with the engine running extremely rich and upsetting the idle. The ECU would be forever trying to correct itself to a stable air/fuel ratio from what the o2 sensor would be measuring. This would especially be the case if you have a big Bosch pump such as the 040. Stock ECU + rising rate reg with high base pressure + aftermarket pump = more fuel flowing through each injector on every pulse width. My next suggestion would be getting a wide-band lambda (o2) sensor hooked up to look at the air/fuel ratios at idle and load. It'd be worth getting the base fuel pressure set to standard Nissan specs if you're still using the stock Nissan ECU. (Can't "chip" it to fix the injector pulse widths either!) I'm no tuning expert, but i've heard of such stories from a guy i know that works for Chiptorque. He says he often sees guys bringing in cars to tune, which have read magazine articles and took a DIY approach with fuel pumps and adj regs and even injector upgrades and wondering why it drives like sh!t....:uh-huh:

it would be very hard to figure out if the original compressor housing or exhaust housing have been fitted with different trim wheels. An easy way would be to see whether the inlet snout has been machined out further than standard to accept a larger compressor wheel and usually when turbo builders do a proper "high-flow" they also get rid of the failure-prone ceramic exhaust turbine wheels for steel ones. (which will let you make more boost with higher shaft speed, without getting what i call "shaftus-disintegratous") So measure the diameter of the inlet of the compressor and give the exhaust wheel a flick with your fingernail to see if it is steel. you'd have to take the dump pipe off of course... if you measure it, i'll post up the diameter of my standard ones.

but, yeah, i tend to agree with everyone else. this is pointing to either extreme detonation or failure due to heat fatique.. NGK would be quick to point this out too. I have NEVER had to make a claim on faulty NGK spark plugs in my 5 years of automotive retail. The condition of plugs is an excellent indicator of an engine's health/tune.

Bosch plugs? Bosch SUPER4 plugs? :bahaha: They would have to be the worst plug ever. Alot of wasted R&D there... The produced spark is grounding all over the place, much like an lightning storm! Unstable spark! The best actual spark energy, is the one with the finest diameter with the highest voltage and the shortest distance. (but not too small to not entirely burn the whole mixture evenly) I'd like to see you fit these plugs into a skyline!! The correct part number is BCPR6ES. Just some friendly criticism to be more careful with your part numbers!

Yep, you have pretty much hit the nail on the head, Busky... Aim for between 33% - 50% Ethylene Glycol mix, as this has a good balance of the superior heat transfer ability of water and the advantage of a broader operating temperature range with the Anti-boil properties. It's possible with 50% concentration to get a boiling point of around 109 degrees Celcius instead of the usual 100 degrees. This is good in the extreme case of a failed cooling fan, for example, and avoiding the possibity of hot-spot damage which used to badly damage the alloy heads of early RB30's and VG30's by cavitation... When you buy coolant, read between the lines for the properties. An excellent concentrate will have at least 1000g/litre of glycol. Anything less like nasty cheapo brand ready made and diluted coolants have concentrations as low as 30g/litre. It's pretty much green cordial!!

I read what you had to say and immediately went to the garage and looked at my two standard T28's i pulled off my R32 GTR and here is how to identify them: They are stamped as GARRETT on the compressor side with a A/R 42 aspect ratio. They have a two bolt inlet flange and two bolt outlet flange. The core tag has the Nissan part number 14411-05U20. The exhaust housing was a little harder to identify, but looked like it was stamped with A/R 48 near the T2 inlet flange. They are a small compressor based on the T25 series, hope that helps.

...here are a few more ideas... Is your Speed sensor wire been snipped to remove the speed cut? Because i know that this has some weird results on idle control if the ECU has no idea of what speed the car is doin. Another thought is if you have an aftermarket BOV, perhaps the spring pressure is way too soft and is open on idle which has the result of the AFM measuring "x" amount of air passing through the inlet only to find it leaking out into the atmosphere. What is your fuel pressure like? have you tested that? Perhaps you have a faulty fuel regulator. or even the vacuum line from the reg to the manifold is leaking. It can't be a cam out of timing, otherwise it would drive very badly across the whole rev range. It sounds like either a crook coilpack or a stuffed O2 sensor, as the ECU goes into closed-loop when it idles and looks at the O2 sensor signal when there is 0% throttle reading from the TPS. Perhaps the TPS doesn't even go to 0% when you take you foot off the throttle. Maybe the throttle cable/linkages need adjusting? The reason why it would drive OK is because when the TPS is sending it's signals to the ECU (open loop) and referencing this to it's internal program maps and not even looking at what the O2 sensor has to correct it. I'm stumped, if it isn't anything above... Let us know how you go.

Busky2k, I totally agree with EVERYTHING you have said. I was more interested in getting some feedback from people who might know more about it or have had good or bad experiences with it. Just curious and keen to add it to my "knowledge vault". hehe I haven't put much more thought into it until recently seeing it again at a car show on display. My thoughts are that they'd be more suited to an old clapped out Holden or Ford 6/V8 which has a had a hard life in regards to worn rings, worn valve-stem seals, etc. or a manual gearbox/diff which is whiney. "A band-aid fix". Like i said, i'd only like to see the PTFE additives used in metal to metal contact like meshing gears and bearings in a manual gearbox and the crown-wheel and pinion in a diff... It's interesting to note that my own opinions don't always match the claims of these companies' products, although ironically, I'm paid to help sell these... The life of a retail automotive employee...

methinks you're right.. i'll see if i get any response on here anyway, but it'd be a shame to order such a small part from Japan for such a high expense and long wait. Pity i don't need anything substantial ordered from Japan at the moment...

Jay95R33, you're an absolute legend for replying so quickly and even taking the time to post a pic grabbed from the VDO catalogue. Cheers... What you have suggested was going to be my last resort. I suggested this idea to all parties, including Pirtek, Enzed and even my engineer which does custom stuff for me, but they all reckon that by the time you have machined the thread down from say M14 down to a M12 thread, this would leave a VERY thin wall. like around 1mm - 2mm at the most in the overall thinkness of the brass. (prone to failure: cracking & leaking. and at worst: possibility of brass fragments breaking off into the oil supply system!:eek: ) I will do this if i have no luck in sourcing the purpose-made GReddy product. Best price so far was $35 but this was ex-Japan and tacked onto a larger order to avoid the rediculous freight charges. And Also around 3 weeks wait... Anyone else know who STOCKS these here, in Australia?

I require such a simple and small item, that no-one appears to have: GReddy Oil Temperature sensor adaptor (Part #16400713) You wouldn't believe how many shops I have tried for such a simple thing that converts the OE R32 GTR oil temp sender thread (M12x1.25) to an aftermarket oil temp sender thread (1/8" NPT) I have tried Pirtek, Enzed and various other suppliers that deal with fittings to no avail. Will pay be any preferred method: COD, Money Order, Direct Deposit, Credit Card, etc.

I spoke to a distributer of this Product while i was at work. After eavesdropping on a conversation i was having with a customer on a Nulon PTFE (Chemical abreviation for a substance better known as the Teflon trademark) engine additive product, he approached me after this customer had left. He handed me his business card and said: "That Nulon stuff doesn't work, try this..." It all sounded like a typical salesperson sledging a competing product and trying to promote his own "... that stuff polishes and glazes the bores, that's no good. This stuff is petroleum based and works with your existing oil, not a solid like PTFE." He went on to describe why it was better and that he'd tested all of the products on the market and said his product withstood the most pressure when it was compressed in between metal to metal. He said he had done extensive testing on his mates nitro drag-bike. **In my own opinion, i've only ever used PTFE/Teflon products where there is metal to metal contact in manual gearboxes and diffs. Nulon and Slick 50 are the main two here. Not so sure about them being brought into the combustion process of an engine though...** I am still a bit apprehensive, since it wasn't a mainstream product, but would be interested in the results. I would say it would be similar to Morey's Or Lucas' "Oil Stabiliser". Anyone else had any experiences or comments? I am still curious.

That extra long wire found near the igniter module (or what the Japanese call a power transistor) is cylinder number 1 ignition. This is used for inductive pickup type timing guns/lights only for setting the timing (CAS position for twin cam motors) only. This will not work with a tacho. This is the case for the twin cammed engines using coil-on-plug ignition. You connect the extra tacho to either the ECU tacho output or the diagnostic tacho plug. The Single cam motors: RB30E, RB30ET, RB20E, etc use the old fashioned distributor and leads with a single electronic coil. Connect the tacho to the negative (-) side of the coil. I assume your VL has the original single cam head setup. Hope that clears things up.

MarioGTR will be the guy to talk to regarding the prowess of JUN gear. The GTR700 uses extensive JUN parts both off the shelf and prototype/custom. http://www.exvitermini.com

Since RB30E's use ignition leads, a distributer and a single coil. Connect to the coil, "old school" style...

Direct Clutch Service 4 Bimbil St Albion QLD, 4010 Australia Ph: (07) 3862 2680 Fax: (07) 3262 9250 Mobile: 0412 032 829 These guys can supply any custom clutch combination. Just say what you want and they can build it. I had a co-worker fit a custom heavy duty organic Exedy/Daiken clutch using OE Nissan hardware on his 180SX with great success. Slightly more bite on take off, with same pedal feel. Try these guys. If they can supply a clutch for the famous twin turbo V8 JUDGE ute and Gicattolo (spelling?) then they sure know what they are doing. Cheap too. They are also regulars at the Jamboree and other meets at Willowbank.

fictional based upon the technology that i believe was used in the gulf war? I remember reading somewhere that some of the missiles were equipped with a form of bomb which only had the effect of frying computers, in particular nano devices like CPU's used in military equipment. harmless to humans (apart from the impact of course) Wouldn't laugh though, it may just become a reality some day, although i'd doubt they'd waste it on petty boy-racers.

AAC valve? (auxiliary air control valve) This flows air to the engine to control the idle when the throttle body butterfly is closed. It's a longshot, but if it isn't the AFM, ECU, O2 sensor, then it'd have to be either that or a bad coil.

This is what separates the Japanese sports cars with the Aussie built performance cars. The Ford XR6 Turbo "Barra" project was undertaken with a very small budget in the hope to boost (no pun intended) some showroom sales against the popular Commodore SS's.... ...and this shows, no money was spent on the R&D for a stronger driveline. Ford are STILL using Borg Warner hardware. A T5 manual gearbox, BTR auto's and weak BW 2 pinion diffs. It's great to see that people like Chiptorque, Nizpro, CAPA and others are making impressive numbers on both the dyno and track by defeating the ECU's abuse/protection modes, but it's a shame the weak drivelines let these cars down.

Yes, it is. Sounds like a turbo timer with many features, if it needs the speed signal as well. Type 1 HKS, Blitz FATT?

This probably explains why alot of PRO-GTR drag racers are having a hard time getting the right setup with the correct torque split for the 4WD. There are plenty of GTST RWD's running quicker times than their GTR equivalents. This is something that HKS struggle with on their car too, apparently. Because all of those drag RWD suspension and tyre setups go out the window as soon as you try to do it on a 4WD.

Going from the stock shoebox intercooler to a decent FMIC will give you a performance increase because the ECU would be retarding the ignition advance, the moment it sees excessively high inlet air temps and possible detonation with the stock intercooler getting heatsoaked. The reason why you see more power with a new FMIC, is because the ECU is dialing in more ignition advance because of the cooler inlet temps. Although you do get a bit more lag as the turbo is filling the volume of the larger intercooler and piping until you notice it making boost pressure.

pure w@nk value...

sounds like the centre bearing is gone. as this is a two piece tailshaft, there is a CV joint in the middle which has a bearing which supports it. This is surrounded by rubber. When they wear, you get a shudder/vibration through the car at certain speeds. The clunk could be stuffed Uni-joints too. While you are under there check out the play in the tailshaft by twisting it (in gear) and see how much play there is in it. and if it makes that clunking sound, this will be worn uni's. Also if you get a shakey gearstick, then you also have problems with a broken gearbox mount and worn engine mounts. Hope that helps.

i have dealt with Brent Richards before (Nengun) he is a one man band and is very cheap, quick and reliable. Although, i have only ordered small parts from him. Highly regarded. Purchase with confidence, like many of the rest of us.