Zensoku

Bleach1, this is a common story you tell. Our junior casuals do exactly the same thing. It's lucky that there are at least two of us who know our imports quite well, where i work. My other co-worker drives a mildly modded 180SX and between us, we nut out most problems or listings we try to find for imports. It surprises most people when we can actually grab exactly the right filter, for example, straight off the shelf, without looking it up, for their R34 GT-T... Times are changing for imports, it was once a dark art knowing what suits what for these great cars. It's a pity that the local manufacturers don't still totally embrace that people need parts for their imports. most parts still come ex-Japan.

another way of hooking up a tacho without taking abpart any of your dash and the ECU, is to connect it up to the diagnostic plug in the engine bay. it is a round plug with a cap on it, which has black electrical tape holding it to the rest of the loom.

oh, ignore what i said about the gauge sender. i just realised you have a mechanical gauge. same principle though, except you have the fun of running the tubing through the firewall without kinking it!

You use a T piece. I can't remember what thread it was. (maybe 1/8" NPT?) But you connect the "T" piece where the original oil pressure switch was, and you connect BOTH the OE oil pressure switch and the gauge sender to the remaining threads on the T piece. Try Pirtek or Enzed for the fittings. (i used an additional right angle bend) and i ordered a T piece made by VDO. Hope that helps. And forget about fitting an oil temp gauge, as i'm still searching for the correct adaptor...

Cobo, you have every reason to be unhappy with their service... maybe you should have a quiet word with their manager to get things sorted. not only will you get what you want, but it will highlight a problem they might have, and this will benefit future dealings with them. either that, or shop somewhere else!

This is a grey area... I have both the current ADR's CD-ROM and a copy of Queensland Transport's Vehicle Modification PDF. There is made no mention anywhere about pillar mounted gauges. But there is plenty of info on the legalities and requirements of bonnet scoops/projections/gauges. I'd be interested to know if this applies with gauges fitted inside a car.

oh, and yes, it's a standard contractual agreement these days that by paying a deposit, it binds you into paying the remaining balance on a special order. (Or forfeight a cancellation charge, if the goods have been despatched already) That's our terms, which is fair i think. If you want something, you have to pay for it. simple. There is nothing worse than ordering something for someone and going to the time, trouble and expense to order something in for a customer to find that they have changed their mind or found a cheaper price elsewhere. That's why i encourage people to SHOP around. I know i do. I'm not ashamed to shop at another retail outlet other than my own, to get a better deal.

Rezz, what exactly don't you agree with me with? The customer's being f%ckwits? (Not all of them are, just a minority, who spoil it for the rest of us) I don't remember saying that i also reciprocated the negative attitude back at them... Anyone who works in retail and has done the training will know that it's part of your retail certificates to learn how to "deal with problem customers". This is something that we do every day. I DO actually say what you quoted: But, in doing so, it shows good character to "bite your tongue" and hold back any smart-arsed remarks you would like to say back to them. (but, i still think it! ) I agree with you, it's the immature people who take things personally. It's often the F$ckwit customers who have their own share of personal problems, hence the attitude... That's my theory...

Guys, it's great to see that you have opinions and experiences, both good and bad with the automotive retail. I have worked in automotive retail since 1998 and i can understand where all of the frustrations come from. On my days off, i often find myself visiting other parts stores like Autobarn, Repco, Bursons, Global, etc and i too experience terrible service such as lack of initiative to help out a customer and "go the extra mile" to obtain the bits that they are after. I see this all the time, even staff within my own store. This is put down to: 1. Fast turnover of staff. (This happens in ALL retail and hospitality professions) All i can say is that people come and go in this industry and often don't have enough time to fully learn and understand all aspects of the automotive industry. 2. Poor retail payrate. A shop assistant in automotive will often won't get paid much more than someone who works at Coles for example. For the income, not many want to divulge too much of their indepth parts knowledge to the public. It all comes down to making the sales at the end of the day. But for me, it's an enthusiast helping out another fellow enthusiast. RARE i know... 3. Dealing with the public. If you saw the amount of &$%#wits you had to deal with daily/weekly in retail, you'd understand why you wouldn't be too enthusiastic about helping the next person. I know that this isn't a good excuse, but, if all people actually had manners and some sort of respect for us trying to help them out, then we'd be more willing. We're only human. 4. Efficiency. It's all about the money $$$$ in the till. Take any advice with caution. I like to educate people on what their money is buying. Example: "Why pay over $42+ for synthetic motor oil for my Skyline?" I then explain why it is necessary compared to putting in a cheap mineral based oil will result in sludge buildup in oil feed lines, leading to turbo failure, because the oil's quality, grade and ability to withstand heat. Extreme example, i know, but i cringe every time someone buys the $7 SF rated oil into their brand new Holden, Nissan, Honda, etc, etc. 5. Costing. You see teenagers in retail because they are cheap to employ. simple as that. Make sure you talk to someone who knows what they're talking about, rather than walk out disatisfied. Sorry, i've been dragging on here, but i had to get that off my chest. It's simple, shop where you feel most comfortable. Whether that be Autobarn, Supercheap, Repco, Bursons, Cheapa, Global, etc. Remember that not all of the staff in these chains are the same. And shop around for the right prices too.

If you want to know the difference between the different types of O2 sensors, try this link: (about half way down the page) http://www.ngkspark.com.au/tech_info_oxyge...nsors_index.htm Also, the current NGK Spark plug & O2 sensor catalogue has detailed information on these including pics of the different plugs - great for matching up an alternative to that expensive OE Nissan sensor!

while on the subject, Mario likes to quote power figures for his GTR700 in megawatts, just to keep people thinking!

Horsepower is directly related to torque calculated over time. This is why dyno's (dynometer) although show readings in HP or KW, actually measure the amount of torque the car takes to spin the rollers or hubs. (chassis dyno) This is straight out of a history book: POWER: 1 Horsepower = 0.7456999 kilowatts = 0.0007456999 megawatts = 745.6999 watts = 42.44498 BTU/minute = 0.7074163 BTU/second = 178.2659 calories/second = 33000 foot-pounds/minute = 550 foot-pounds/second = 76.04034 kilogram-metres/second = 1.0138712 PS (Pferdestaerke is Metric Horsepower) There are other combinations of converting units of power, but would NEVER be used in the real world. Example using the above: "A Nissan R32 Skyline GTR with the twin turbo RB26DETT engine is rated @ 280PS, which equates to approximately 276BHP or 206kW." This is why the ongoing debate of "HP versus torque - which is better?" is always such a silly thing to be talking about, since HP or KW is torque expressed over time. This why having a car that has torque being produced early and in the middle of the rpm range will always accelerate away from a car that has it's peak torque being developed higher in the rpm range despite both cars having the same HP...

It appears that a reproduced circuit diagram i have got of the R32's shows that the EGT module is ONLY connected to the warning light. hmm, Browny's comment has prompted me to have a look at a genuine Nissan R32 workshop manual and the EGT module has an output which Tee's into both the warning light and pin 32 of the ECU. I was puzzled for awhile there, and i stand corrected. As for a "limp mode"? I still believe that there is no such thing on the R32's, as there is no diagnostic for this.

agh, a colder heat range and a recessed electrode, you must know your plugs too... Generally a colder plug changes the thermal effeciency of the combustion, hence slightly more power (preventing the problem of pre-ignition or detonation when tuned properly of course) Recessed tip? There is alot of debate in Japanese tuning circles on these. I won't comment, as i haven't seen any advantages of using these in skylines versus the standard type. BKR7E won't need gapping to 0.8mm because they are that gap, out of the box.

hmm, being cast alloy, i doubt that there'd be any internal deflectors. Alot of aftermarket plenums which are made by speed shops use straight alloy piping and weld in nice bellmouths to smooth the flow of the air into each inlet port. If you've ever looked inside a standard RB26 plenum, it is simply curved (as part of the casting) on the entry to each cylinder's port. The shape and seemingly smaller volume would suggest to me, that Nismo aren't interested in making more torque with a larger volume plenum, but are more interested in even distribution and improved throttle response. They obviously must be relying on the turbo(S) to spool early and quickly, as when the boost comes into play, all of the flow rates and plenum acoustics go out the window...

I'd be trying either Castlemaine Rodshop or Dellows Automotive for adaptor plates or bellhousings for this sort of conversion. The problem of the "rare manual" equipped Toyota V8 Soarers will soon be over. I heard they (CRS) have developed a Supra 6 speed conversion kit for these cars, maybe you should try them. Rod Hadfield knows his shite, he'd be the man that would know. www.rodshop.com.au

Thanks for the pic MegaGTS4, Nameless EJ6, how is this conversion going? I'd be keen to find out how you went. We know that the RB20, RB25 & RB30 use the inside bolt pattern (the smaller ones) and from memory i had to drill out one of the holes in the sump near the front of the engine, as this actually took one of the larger bolts from the 4WD sump. I'd still like to know if the pickup location on the block are the same between the 4WD engines and RWD engines on the RB20's and RB25's... I know from experience that when i used an RB30 oil pickup and sump, i had to cut the baffle in the sump to allow the pickup to sit a little further forward. I also had to modify the sump to clear the pickup. (as you can see in the pic) I'd still like to see the original sump modified, as i also removed the rear baffle off the main bearing cap to help the sump clear the bottom end. Post a reply on how you are progressing.

yeah, i agree with that. It's the blue/grey smoke that you should fear. Although uncommon in Skylines.. Ever seen a Mitsubishi Colt lately? Anyone in the automotive industry will tell you they've got the worst valvetrain ever.

Guys, on skylines, the only ceramic part is the exhaust turbine. And when this lets go (a condition i like to call Shaftus Separatus) it will either get lodged in the dump pipe, or further down near (or in!) the catalytic converter. This is due to the massive amount of exhaust back pressure pushing it downstream. I haven't heard of a turbine making it's way past the manifold and anywhere near the exhaust ports on the head. Rarely, ever, rarely will you see a turbo that also has a ceramic compressor wheel as well. If i had a digital camera, i'd take a photo of the back of one of the GTR T28's i pulled off my motor. "Where's the wheel?!" LOL On another note, i have heard of stories of race teams not running blow-off valves on their drag cars at all, (in the quest for power, no leaks!) and when they've just hit WOT, and lifted their foot off the throttle, the amount of pressure now slowing down the still spinning turbos has caused the compressor fins to bend and eventualy snap off and head into the intake! Although, i think this was the case on the old school turbos and their lack of knowledge back then...

HERE IS THE TRUTH FOR QLDer's: I have both a Queensland Transport PDF file on vehicle modifications in Queensland and also have a copy of the current ADR CD-ROM. The ADR's are very difficult to read and take a few re-reads to fully digest, but, here is what was said about steering wheels straight out of this PDF file: QUOTE: "Steering wheels fitted to vehicles manufacured after 1970, may only be replaced by a steering wheel which has been tested to comply with ADR 10A when fitted to that particular vehicle. Vehicles originally fitted with a driver's side airbag must be fitted with a replacement steering wheel unless it is supplied by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that model. The diameter of any replacement wheel may be up to 25mm smaller than the original wheel but must not be less than 350mm." This is the reason why most wheels you see in shops around Australia, such as SAAS, Autotechnica, MOMO, Isotta, etc are all minimum 350mm in diameter. Also, this is the reason why for years i got away from being defected for having a sports steering wheel in my old Commodore (C'mon everyone had one, right?) by saying to the Police/Queensland Transport: "But the Brock Commodores and SS's had sports wheels as standard..." They then withdrew their defect... Also, although the authorities can't tell, it would be wise to fit a collapsable style boss kit for both your own safety and legality. I don't like the idea of a solid cast or machined boss on a street car. I hope this has armed you with the real info to defend yourselves.

Sandpaper? :eek: - RB20DET & RB20DE 1989-91 Copper: BCPR5ES-11 Platinum: PFR5A-11 Iridium: BCPR5EIX-11 RB20DET & RB20DE 1991-1993 Copper : BCPR6ES-11 Platinum: PFR6A-11 Iridium: BCPR6EIX-11 Drop the -11 off the part numbers to get a 0.8mm gap out of the packet. And do not attempt to gap iridiums.. You have been warned. Hope that helps.

Sorry guys, but you are both WRONG.. the EGT sensor ISN'T connected to the ECU in ANY way... There is no way it can illuminate the light on your dash and cause your car to go into "limp mode". The EGT has a switching module which is earthed and a powered by a positive switched ignition feed. This module illuminates the light on the dash which is also earthed. The module is set to illuminate the light on your dash at around 850 degrees celcius... On some more sophisticated ECU used in late model BMW's, Mercedes, etc, etc this is the case, but the skylines only take refenences from sensors, such as CAS, AFM, WATER TEMP, AIR TEMP, KNOCK, VSS, O2 & TPS in their Fuel, Ignition, Timing maps. The light illuminating for no apparent reason, (all tuning aspects have been checked and OK) would either be a faulty EGT, module or a short circuit somewhere.

Hmm, could be a faulty EGT sensor, but i still think that it could be indicating an engine that is running a bit too lean. I hear stories from a dyno operator i know here that sees cars that come in every day that have been so called "tuned" or "dynoed" that run extremely lean in the quest to extract as much power as possible. He says that some performance shops tune the cars so aggressively to extract as much power as possible to impress their customers, when in reality it's better to tune conservatively on a street car taking into consideration different qualities of fuel from batch to batch, different ambient temps, etc, etc. Too many variables to consider, and you should be factoring in some reliability into the engine with some form of thermal control. (A bit richer from Stoichiometric) Anyway, i'm rambling again, get it looked into! At least check your fuel pressure and A/F ratios, as a EGT warning is a rare instance on a street car, i'm told.

I have no idea what other mods you have done to support this turbo conversion you have done to your RB20DE, but i had an acquintance a long time ago that toyed with the idea of adding a turbo to his NA RB30E VL Commondore. I warned him about using the factory management and the higher compression ratios of the NA motors compared to the turbo motors. The result? An engine which although went alot harder than NA, suffered from detonation BADLY (depending on the available traction and load put onto the motor of course) This ended in a %$ed piston ring land, in (GUESS!!) cylinder number 6. The case of the leaned out and detonating engine strikes again... To answer your question, i will look into what NGK part number is recommended for both RB20DE and RB20DET at where i work tomorrow, if i remember. But this mightn't be you problem... I'd be hooking up an A/F ratio gauge to check the mixtures...

The EGT sensor illuminates a warning light which looks like a side view of the catalytic converter with wavey heat lines coming off the top of it (looks more like a BBQ!) It will illuminate when the temperature has reached around 850 degree celcius. This is very hot, and is usually due to either driving the car very hard continuously (ie: around a race track) or if driving normally is due to an extremely lean engine conditions (not good! perhaps a lazy fuel pump?) This doesn't affect the operations of the ECU, but serves its purpose to help protect both the turbo from excessive heat (ceramic turbines in particular) from high temp failure and also to help the Platinum Rhodium material in the catalytic converter from being heat damaged. Heat damage reduces the cat's ability to convert carbon monoxide and other poisonous gases back to a safe (and legal) emissions standards. Most cats don't work too well after 80,000km's anyway, from what i've been told. If you ignore the warning light, then i think you'd be taking a blind eye to a possible engine problem if the light come on when you were just driving around normally (ie: not doing laps on a track)