Zensoku

aghh, you're welcome!

methinks that you have just read the latest copy of High Performance Imports magazine to put that question forward... You will have to speak to the Australian agent, or contact Takakaira.com for some information. No doubt more information will be available soon.

I walked away from 2f2f feeling a little disappointed. Don't get me wrong, i loved the movie for the cars, girls and the attempt to actually have a meaningful plot, but i went in to see this movie with high expectations from getting the initial adrenalin rush from watching scenes from the first movie. Was also a little disappointed that there was no REAL driving in this movie, most of this would have been either digital effects, or dummy bodyshells being pulled, pushed around a set... All i can say, is that after putting up with all the stupid ****s that have walked up to my dual-horn button steering wheels on display in my store and pressing the horn button button and saying "Awwww NOS!!!!! PPPPPchhhhhhhhhh!!!!" from seeing the first movie, will now be pushing both horn buttons at once now and saying "AWWWW double hit of NOS 'bra' "PPPcchhhhhhhh!!!! Siiiiiiccckkkkk mang!!!!"

Supercheap Auto can order you a 25 foot roll of 1" wide Thermal Glass Header Tape which can handle up to 550 degrees celcius continuously and up to 1000 degrees celcius intermittent for $45.

LOL Don't believe everything people tell you, especially those that work in automotive retail! i'm in that industry, and i guarantee that they will want to recommend something with higher gross profit than the something that is right for you and the right budget for YOU.... You can plumb it back to the intake just like OEM, or vent it atmospherically with a one way valve on the BOV outlet (will stabilise the idle, when it's partially open) Caution to people with air flow meter cars, though, unless you have the HKS EIS.

inflation! yeah i totally agree. all the aftermarket manufacturers are jumping on this bandwagon. the bosch bov's still are very cheap. depends who you order them from and what markup they want to take. i can gaurantee that they are well below the price people have quoted here. it'd be conflict of interest if i revealed the true cost of these, then i'd be in the $hit!

raist60 and INASNT are 100% right. I recently said the same thing in >> this post<<

I can vouch for Belly_up seeing Rolin Imports dropping the RB25DET into the E30 Beemer. It was a black car by memory. The stage i saw it in (this was well over 18 months ago) was when they just lowered the engine & tranny into it with the fabricated mounts. they were struggling for engine bay real estate, that's for sure. they had to actually cut a piece of the Rb25 timing cover to clear one of the intercooler pipes which crossed over. very tight fit. the car sat very low (stock springs?) with this engine. the guys there doubted its weight bias front to rear. i doubt it would have handled well being front heavy. i'd go down the SR20DET path if it was me and i wanted a great handling chassis. but if straight line stuff is more the go, then by all means, the RB is still a great choice.

Here is a recent thread that i was involved in that will answer most of your questions: Click here!

boys boys boys. The Bosch BOV is a great blowoff valve, CAPA actually use two of these on all of their aftermarket Supercharger kits for Commodores, Falcons & Nissans - 6's and 8's... Volvo, Saab and even some other european turbo cars use these from the factory... I will only say this once: A BOV will only work best at holding pressures when it is mounted in the proper the location, (before throttle body is best) and whether or not it's vacuum line is receiving the same boost signal as the boost pressure that is trying to push the BOV open... This will ensure the BOV remains shut (no leaks) when both sides of the chamber have equal pressures. When you let your foot off the pdeal, the boost signal travelling along the vacuum line suddenly disappears (closed throttle, no positive pressure in the manifold) forcing the BOV open by the boost pressure trying to get past the throttle butterfly(s). Simple. No S*** i hear you say... Well most factory BOV's leak because they are usually located after the turbo and before the intercooler, therefore when you increase the boost, the pressure drop across the restrictive intercooler core causes a lower than expected boost pressure to travel along the vacuum line (from the manifold) to the BOV, which causes it to leak. The Bosch BOV is going to be exactly the same as your original BOV, but offers people an option when they are going to have a different inlet piping and want to ditch the stock setup. It's more functional rather than w**k value compared to other aftermarket valves, i reckon. Can be either rigged up to vent atmospherically or be plumbed back to the intake. Part# 0 280 142 103 and can be bought for under $50 if you're lucky and know someone who has an account with Robert Bosch..

Probably a little bit off topic, but it reminded me of the time i had to remove the harmonic balancer on my old Commodore V8, and no matter what i tried (Body weight leaning on the breaker bar, hitting it with a hammer, borrowing a compressor and rattle gun) the damned bolt wouldn't come off!!! Even after many of my friends having countless frustrating hours trying to get this crank bolt off, one of my friends after staring at the car for quite some time, came up with the idea of getting the breaker bar, putting a piece of pipe onto it's handle to make it longer and give it more leverage and placing it underneath the chassis rail, whilst i turned the key on the starter motor, and voila!!! one crank bolt loosened by the torque of the engine's own starter motor! keep this nifty trick in mind kids, it could have saved me many hours of grief!

Guys, I deal with this very issue every day at work... Different oils, oil viscosity ratings, oil pressure and oil temperature are all related to eachother (obviously). You can get into very lengthy and often complex discussions involving oils, temps and pressures as there are just too many variables involved to ascertain what is the "right" oil and the "right" oil pressure for each engine and application. It all comes down to: 1. Type of oil. 2. Quality of oil. 3. Viscosity rating of oil. (there are other ways of judging oil properties, but I will leave this out for this example) 4. Temperature of oil. 5. Accuracy of oil pressure gauge. 6. Condition of the oil pump (if it is worn) 7. Condition of the engine. (if it has badly worn components/clogged galleries, etc) 8. Intended use of the car. (Drag-racing, Track racing, Every day use, etc) 9. Other variables like: engine builder's clearances/tolerances on a freshly built engine. As you can see, there are just too many variables which affect oil pressure. But for skylines i always recommend synthetic 5W/40 oil or 0W/40 oil for general use on a daily driven street car which is in good mechanical condition. Oils such as Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40 SL, Mobil 1 Trisynthetic 0W/40 SL, Castrol Formula R 0W/40 SL just to name a few. For track use, i always recommend a 10W/60 synthetic oil for its ability to withstand higher oil temperatures which then translates to a more stable oil pressure because of its ability to fight "thinning out" like most other lower viscosity oils. Anyway, i could write a book about oils, etc but i've bored you all enough to death about what things you've got to take into consideration about oils, temps and pressures. In short, your gauges are showing a lower reading after a hard run generally is due to your oil thinning out due to the higher temp by both your engine and turbo(s).

Fuel pressure for both the RB26DETT & RB20DET is exactly the same from the factory; When ignition switch is on: Approx. 3.0kg/cm2 During idling: Approx. 2.5kg/cm2 Idling when pressure regulator vacuum hose is removed: Approx. 3.0kg/cm2 Obviously these are standard fuel pressures for standard engines. These will vary if you have fitted an adj fuel regulator or rising rate type regulator. It would be up to the tuner to decide on the right values in this case. Hope this helps.

Sorry, incorrect. Ford has setup their XR6T's inlet piping to be restrictive on purpose, not the turbo itself. The Ford engineers actually detuned the performance of this engine, because they didn't want their new engine to outshadow their new "Barra V8's" which offered more torque and power than the XR6T & weren't even released at the time. I would just like to point out that the XR6T uses a "high flow" style Garrett GT ball bearing turbo. It uses a GT40 compressor housing and a GT30 exhaust housing, hence the small A/R you quoted. Obviously this would aid in this large turbo to spool up a little earlier in the rev range. Ford originally tried the GT30 off the shelf from Garrett, but found that it ran out of efficiency at high RPM/load. This is interesting, because, these XR6T's run very conservative boost from the factory, not enough to notice the "urge" of g-force associated with Jap turbo cars. I would be doubtful to the results of trying one of these turbos on a RB25DET, as this turbo was designed for the exhaust flow and engine volumetric efficiency of Ford's 4.0L engine. If you get a turbo builder to custom build a turbo, you will NEVER get the exact same specs as a HKS turbo, as these are custom built by Garrett/Honeywell to HKS's own specs. HKS don't actually modify these turbos at all. They simply show all their engine dyno graph, flow bench tests to Garrett and get them to engineer different compressor and turbine wheels which fall into an efficiency range that HKS would be happy with. A GT turbo from Garrett Australia will be alot cheaper than a HKS item, but will be just a bee's dick less in efficiency and power compared to HKS turbos. HKS turbos should be fairly cheap to get direct out of Japan anyway.

am considering purchasing a copy of the current Australian Design Rules (ADRs) on CD-ROM from the Department of Transport website. ADRs I thought that it might be another useful thing to have when making both responsible and irresponsible decisions on certain modifications I make with my car. Has anyone on here have access to, or have such a copy of these ADR's, either through their work or own business? Would it be a worthwhile purchase at $23.55 for the wealth of information on this CD-ROM? (no ongoing subscription)

I can confirm that that part number is correct. It is the same one as the one i bought for my R32 GTR. The part number on the packet was 13028-20P25, but the belt had 13028-20P10 marked on it. Weird?...

When looking at the pins on the ECU, the bolt in the middle which secures the harness into the ECU is a little closer to one side of the ECU than the other, the side that it is closer to is the "top". Reference my pinouts (above) once you have established that. Also, once you have figured out which pin is which, i'd be looking at what colour and trace colour the wires are, and then tracing these same colours back to where they are under your dash to splice your TT wires to, instead of splicing directly onto the harness near the ECU. I downloaded my HKS Type 0 TT instructions from the HKS USA website.

Pulling out my service manual, reveals: PIN 7 is tacho signal PIN 53 is the speedo signal This is when looking at the ECU pinouts, not the harness. Pin 7 is the fifteenth pin on the top row, from the left. And pin 53 is on the bottom row, the eighth one from the right. Hope that helps. Zen.

PS or Pferdestaerke is Metric Horsepower. 1PS = 75 kgm/s. 1 Brake Horse Power (BHP) = 550 ft-lb/s or 745.7 Watt = 0.7457 Kilowatts = 76.0398 kgm/s. So, therefore: (example) A Nissan R32 Skyline GTR with the twin turbo RB26DETT engine is rated @ 280PS, which equates to approximately 276BHP or 206kW.

i hate to reign on your parade, but these can be bought NEW for well under $100... you might want to be a little bit more fair with the price. Please take this as constructive criticism...

aren't the Garrett/HKS GT series twin ball bearing turbo's water cooled only? why are you selling and how many kilometres have these turbos done? any pics? my offer is $3100 (pending an inspection of course)

check your pm for my offer...

as much as i'd like to sell these separately, i'm afraid, by selling one of these to you, then i'm stuck with another GTR turbo which won't be of much use to a skyline owner at all. sorry, only selling these as a paired set.

bump... Surely there is someone out there who wants these... Anyone who owns an R32/R33 GTR who has peddled their stock turbos just a little too hard, and now suffering from shaftus disintegratus? :burnout: These would be good on any 6 cylinder for a project... ...in fact i have friend who owns an EA Ford Falcon (yeah, i know! ) which has received the twin turbo treatment in the form of twin GTR turbos on his 4.0L XR6 engine. Built by Tony Rigoli Performance... any offers?

Sorry. As much as i'd like to separate them, these turbos aren't really any good for any other application in single form on any engine, due to their exhaust turbine trim. They will work best together on a six cylinder i'm afraid. I'm sure that other members would agree on this theory. Of course it's up to you whether you want to spend the extra money to change the ceramic exhaust turbine to another trim so that it'd be of more use in a single application...