Deli Rep

Thanks for your help guys, have posted on other forum also as suggested Thanks again

Hi all I recently had the dash of my 34 GTR pulled apart to fix a leaking heater core. The issue is rectified, the dash is back together, but now the factory display (where it shows temps, revs, boost etc) is displaying only oil temp, and the water temp line is flashing red and displaying 130 degrees. All other readings are 0, throttle position doesn't move, nor does boost or anything else but once oil temp is up it WILL read that... According to the Power FC everything is as it should be... Does the computer need a reset, or...? Has anyone else experienced this before, or know what to do? Thanks Bec

"Ok guys, now before we go anywhere make sure you get yourselves a trolley, preferably one with an extra dodgy wheel... we're gonna cruise the sh!t outta this place!!"

Big thanks to everyone who came along and showed their support! Means a lot to me, and no doubt to 'the Olds'. Everything went pretty well, especially considering the lack of organisation on my part lol... Hope most enjoyed the route, spewin it was as busy as it was but I certainly wasn't expecting that... would have been nice to get a decent run down into yank & normanville thru that windy hills section but we were held up by many a car who for some reason required 2.5 lanes to negotiate their falcoon wagon down even at only 9.6km/h ??? and somehow it's us who earn the 'bad driver' label ?? Also apologies to everyone for the victor parking situation... yet another thing I definitely didn't forsee as being quite that bad But to those who snagged a park, & stayed for lunch, well done, thank you. All in all, was a good day, cheers again for all the donations, both time & money... Special thanks to Nicko & the 'Smooth Garage' boys for sponsoring the cruise, Little bec for helping with donations, Mike Cop for donating his time for the shoot, 'SASLY' for his donation & also a CONGRATS to him for winning the shoot too. Mark & Jules - We love you guys... your generosity, love & support is second to none.. Our scene wouldn't be the same without you both. Can't wait for the BSM Cruise, keen as mustard to stretch the GTR's legs (& maybe flex its muscles too) on that one!! Thanks again, speak soon. Lindo & Bec

Hey thanks for the response... The system was pressure tested, and the Power FC and normal water temp guage in the dash cluster itself are both telling me the actual water temp of the car is fine...? Hmmmmm... Electrics hey? LOL

Hi all I recently had the dash of my 34 GTR pulled apart to fix a leaking heater core. The issue is rectified, the dash is back together, but now the factory display (where it shows temps, revs, boost etc) is displaying only oil temp, and the water temp line is flashing red and displaying 130 degrees. According to the Power FC everything is as it should be... Does the computer need a reset, or...? Has anyone else experienced this before, or know what to do? Thanks Bec

Hey guys Will suss with Lindo tomorrow re a southern stop-off for all you lazy southerners to tag along from Watch this space! Bec

MEET POINT: Hey guys! We're lookin at BACK carpark at Castle Plaza, Edwardstown. Turn off South Road at lights onto Raglan Ave that runs down the side of Castle Plaza, then turn left onto Brooks Tce and into carpark 10.30am on Sun! The more the merrier!

Anybody know who deals or distributes Bomex stuff? tried googling but cant find squat cheers

I've heard that the RSRs are a street-legal semi-slick... Does anyone know if this is correct? Bec

Hi all After a chat with Mark Simpson, we have decided that asking for a donation at both the cruise on the 28th and the BSM cruise in February may be a bit much for some people. To those who are happy to donate at both, that is wonderful and is truly appreciated by the Simpsons, but if you can only afford to donate at one or the other, please still know you are welcome at both of these cruises. If you do want to donate $5 but can't afford it twice for example, if the $5 is split into $2 and this one and $3 at the BSM cruise for example, we understand (especially at this time of year!). Chances are we will have lunch at Victor, possibly at the pub, and all are welcome So please spread the word, get everyone together, and let’s have a great day Meet point to be posted very soon Bec PS Special thanks to Becalicious & Skyebaby for offering to collect donations & hand out maps on the day!

I have Yokohama Advan Neovas on my GTR... From the little I've experienced so far, they're pretty damn good! Have also heard really good things about the Federal 595s or whatever they are called... My Dad has Bridgestone Adrenalines on his M3, and has done track stuff in it with them, and raves about them. Also, I don't know what other sizes they make them in, but on my MX5, the most grippy tyres I had were Michelin Pilot Precedas. The thing was on rails! Bec

No, this cruise isn't specifically affiliated with any particular website/car club, but is posted on both forums to try and get as much support as possible. Thanks for your outstanding support so far guys, keep it comin! Will be a great day

*winks* That milk run, remember? I was in 32 with S13s in tow, Bec rounding 'em up in 34 GTR

For those of you who know Mark & Julie Simpson, aka “The Olds”, you will know how important they are to the Adelaide car scene. They have helped a lot of people, including us, in everything from their drifting careers through to their personal issues. There is normally an annual cruise to raise money for Youth Suicide Awareness, a charity The Olds created after their son Ben sadly passed away in 2005. The Olds are organising a charity on the exact anniversary of Ben’s passing next year, but we thought they deserve a cruise in THEIR honour, to thank them for all they have done for everyone, and the scene as a whole. To show our love, support and appreciation to these two wonderful people, we have decided on a cruise on Sunday 28th December. The cruise destination is Victor Harbor. Meet point is to be advised. Rough meeting time will be about 10.30am. We ask that each car donates $5. All money raised will go to Mark & Julie to donate to the Youth Suicide Awareness fund. We personally saw a lot of people opting not to donate at the cruise on the weekend just gone, yet still accepting maps and participating in the cruise, & that’s just not on. $5 per car is very, very reasonable – especially when each car normally has 2 or more people – and will have a considerable impact on the lives it will later affect thanks to Mark & Julie. Cruise maps will be distributed upon donation at the entrance. We know it is often said, but people breaking speed limits & trying to be heroes throughout this cruise will NOT be tolerated. You will not look cool (the import community already has enough of a bad reputation as it is), but instead will make an idiot out of yourself when you are asked to leave. Please respect that this is a charity event. For those of you who don’t know Mark & Julie, this is a great opportunity to come and say hi & spend time with others. We look forward to seeing you all there to show your appreciation, show off your cars and use this as a good opportunity to farewell 2008 with fellow import/car enthusiasts. Please note this is not instead of the Ben Simpson Memorial Cruise. The Ben Simpson Memorial Cruise will be going ahead early next year as planned. We know this is short notice as it is a last minute thing, and although the Ben Simpson Memorial Cruise is probably the biggest event on the annual cruise calendar, we’d really appreciate it if you could dig deep and attend this cruise also, not just to raise money for the charity, but moreso to show Mark & Julie how important they are to our community (and for those who don’t know, to come and see for themselves). More details will be added as we go, this is just to get the ball rolling & give people the heads up on the date so they can keep it free. See you then, Lindo & Bec

I have an RB25DE non vct motor that has been de-compped and freshened up for my R32. They run the same top feed injector setup as RB20, same loom and my ecu will even run it fine... it's essentially just a 2.5lt RB20.... The crossover on the 20's and 25's has always sh!t me mainly from a cooler piping point of view and I want to look into other options... I too have heard of one of the jap brands (prob blitz) making an adapter kit to use gtr plenum... surely such a kit would mean everything lining up and bolting straight on, The injectors etc should not be an issue as it still runs top feed like gtr? Does anyone know more about these or used them on a 20 or 25 non vct like mine? I have searched the forums but it mainly just 25DET stuff being talked about and it's all too hard... but it shouldn't be for my set up

Hey people, I'm currently building/refreshing an RB25DE non vct from late model 32 gts4... I'm putting fresh rings and bearings in, now apparently there's a 'grade' for the big end bearings...... these are numbers that can be found on the rods..... then more on the front of the crank. Does anyone know if these are specific to individual motors or would all motors of the same kind have same 'grade'? I've been told they're just 1's or 0's...... anyone out there got experience with these motors? Is there anywhere on the net u can look up parts and part numbers? any general related info would be appreciated..... sorry if it's a bit broad.... cheers.

Do you know if that plenum will bolt straight up to RB20DET?

Cam timing has been checked and double checked...... no teeth out, all sweet. TPS..... how does one tell exactly where "right" is? Consult Plug..... unfortunately not. apparently the early models (mine 89) do not have the plug, tho i REALLY wish they did. Knock sensors are back in fine. EBC goes on monday, hopefully improves things a bit, then just some fine tuning for those last few kw and safeness. "If it works, why fix it?" the timing is happy where it is, I just don't understand.

K guys, when you're done making up..... (jokes) I did a lotta stuffing around with knock sensors igniter modules, discovered F**k all.... Did some more toying with timing and stumbled across a massive improvement. Until now my crank angle sensor has been sitting in almost 'fully advanced' position, but only been showing about 15deg with a timing light, and the whole thing of hugely retarded under load as you've read already. I know it immediately seems as if that's obviously the problem (CAS positioned fully advanced) but it was showing very reasonable moderate timing none the less. No-one had moved it because it was showing a decent amount of timing and the only direction left to turn it was anti-clockwise or more retarded... yes? Anyway, out of curiosity/frustration/boredom we loosend it off and turned it (anti-clockwise) to about centre, tightened it up and took it for a lap of the block. Much to my surprise there was instantly MUCH more bottom end response, power and pull... Not knowing where the timing was actually at (no timing light) meant taking it a little easy, but it was clear there was huge change. Today, back on the dyno it's making 170rwkw with about 17psi (fluctuating bleed valve gayness) only spiking as lean as low 12's afr and ramping on very hard.... from 40kw @ 60kph to 140kw @ 100kph then on up to 170kw. But, at idle timing is showing 30deg with 20deg under load.... I'm confused??? I understand that previously it may have been so advanced the knock sensors were making the ecu back timing off to 10deg retard under load for engine safety sake, but it doesn't change the fact that we turned it nearly halfway anti-clockwise and now it's showing double the timing at idle? Is there something playing silly buggers with me? can some part or area be giving false readings? I mean we're talking about markings etched into pulley wheels that have key ways to ensure they only go on in one position, how can there be any discrepency? I'm stoked... it's nearly all sorted, but I'm spewin cos I'm confused as!

Does anyone know how they work exactly? To find out if they're what's causing the problem, can I just unplug them? Does the ecu need a signal or certain voltage? could I earth out the plugs to get around this? We just unplugged both, took it for a spin and now it feels f**kin 30deg retarded! much worse than with them in, but I know for a fact it's not right when they are in cos I watched the timing myself settle at about 10deg retarded under full load on the dyno? This timing thing is definately the area at fault, just need to nail the cause still.

You boys might be onto something with this knock sensor theory...... Apparently the ecu wouldn't be controlling that timing (not retarding it that much anyway) something else must be causing it, and first thing would be knock sensor...... Back to the dyno...............

OK! It's official..... my car is retarded... literally! Tonight we did voltage checks to fuel pump, coils, etc.... all showed up fine power supply. We tried another ecu, another afm and another crank angle sensor..... almost un-noticable differences. Did another fuel return test, fuel returned fine. Dyno's were all over the show, leaning out, then phattening up, but barely scratching 140kw! and still missing at that most lean point.... then then spark plugs came out, gapped from .8 down to .7.... made a significant difference to the missing when leaning out, just enough to keep it from going any higher than 12.5 afr. But still no power..... Then with timing set at 15/16 at idle, we did a power run whilst monitoring timing..... AAHA!! the timing was moving around then settling at about 10deg retarded when under full load/max throttle. Instead of a desired 10-15deg advanced, it was 20deg out... retarded no less!!! for those who know, that 20deg easily accounts for my 60-80 kw lack of power. PROBLEM SOLVERED! unfortunately it has to stay like that until I can get someone with the appropriate tools/hardware to get into the ecu and alter it... but never the less, at least it is no longer an 'unknown' problem ASAP will have it done! YEEEE mutha-f**kin HA Cheers to everyone's info, most of which was very useful weather it ended up being the problem or not. will let ya's know what it does make and how it goes when sorted out.... CHEERS

OK Guys, now we're getting somewhere... finally some theories I haven't heard yet Goodwork! I'm happy to remove the FCD and run it without, but isn't it basically a boost cut where if I were to run 18psi or so the stock ecu would cut it? (I can't be sure but I don't think the 're-map' did remove it) I realise I wouldn't hit the cut @ 150kw but the point is I should be @ 200kw I have checked the AFM to be RB20, it is. As for the Volts.... will follow that up. I have experienced faults with plugs, coils etc before... it's different, altho coils have been changed and plugs checked a few times. Under load the fuel pressure is dropping off, but The pump itself is ruled out as 4 pumps all of which have good working history can not all be shite... 1 or 2 maybe... but not 4. The volts to the pump will be checked 2morrow arvo, along with volts to everything else. The Reg is rising rate (I think), but I will stick the stocky back on just to check it out. There is also another stock ecu at the workshop which I will give a go. There is a metal line that runs from the fuel tank, into the engine bay and to an emmisions/charcoal cannister up front next to radiator (passenger side). If that cannister were removed, would that line need to be pressurised/blocked off etc? Or can it vent to nowhere?... may only be a little thing, but a thing none the less. Cheers for your input peoples, hopefully 2morrow will shed some new light on the situation. Fingers crossed

So far, cooling temp is the one sensor I have changed..... did squat