MYRB30

Weld a nut on to them then undo them

I have type flex teins in my r32 gtr. Now I hate a rough riding car....Been there done that. LOL. The teins are perfect, nice and firm, not rough, and handle potholes well. Im happy with them

Duncan, whilst they do plug in, I'm fairly certain the R33 & R32 GTR o2 sensors work differently. The power fc needs to know which type you are using. I stupidly remembered that my ECU must be an R32 as it has a chip in it, so definately a R32. Thanks guys.

Thanks Lippo, so theres no chance it could be an R33 ECU?

I've actually seen people use individual socket terminals that fit the afm pins then silicon the whole thing up! I personally would never do something like that. I actually tested mine, I used a couple of paper clips to back probe the afm's with a multimeter when the car was running. My signals were way out of spec, thats what lead me down the afm path. I cant remember what the specs were and what terminals to test. Its in the workshop manual. I can get it for you tomorrow. Another thing that can cause similar issues, but it would be constant, is if the fuel pressure reg seized shut, But I'd be checking the AFMs first.

Ok, so no air leaks. But overfuelling still? Next thing to check is the AFM's. There are two problems with GTR AFM'S as far as I'm aware. 1: The actual loom connector where it plugs onto the AFM. The pins loose their tension causing various, constant or intermitent problems. I had this, took a little while to track down. It would start running rough, smoking etc, so I could pull over, wriggle the connector and you can hear the engine change note. These connectors are not available from Nissan, some of the SAU supporters sell them. In my case I was working at an importer at the time, Subaru use the same STYLE connector, so I used better condition pins from a subaru connector and joined into the car's loom. Have done over 30,000km with no problem since. 2: The other problem is under the top cover of the AFM there are solder joints where the pins are soldered. With the weight of the connector on them these can fail. There is a thread on SAU showing how to do this. It is quite simple. Have a look at these two things before stressing yourself out.

Mate I sympathise with you being in a small town, been there done that. My first thought was it sounds like you have an air leak, have you checked right over all your hoses??? Especially the two on the intercooler? They can split under the outter cover and be a royal pain to find. Can you hear any strange noises? other than the actual engine running poor?

Hi guys, can I please have a list of all the ecu numbers for R32 GTR and R33 GTR??? Why? I want replace my O2 sensors and need to be sure which ecu I'm running, it had the later R33 type crank when the oil pump let go. The numbers on mine is partially rubbed off, I can see a Large 30 23710 0??02 MEC R128 0621 Thanks guys, your work is most appreciated.

This Rudd gov't makes me furious. I know I shouldn't be plitical like this, but K.Rudd has taxed us on booze, blown the budget (no more tax cuts for many years people) and various other issues. KNOW, LISTEN UP! Remember all the hoo haa about the Chinese governement controlling access to the internet during the Olympics?????? OUR hypocritcal government is planning to do the same!!! AFAIK it is being trialled by some ISP's now. As the first post stated this WILL AFFECT YOU, with slower net speeds, cost (ISP's gotta pay and comply with this rot) and potentially block you from sites you may need. The idea has merit, but is impossible to implement properly and fairly.

I had a fast idle issue with mine. I removed the throttles, cleaned with carby cleaner (didn't get it absolutely spotless as that carbon is seriously stuck after 15+yrs) and then adjusted them as they must have worn or someone else had adjusted them and not have closed them nicely. Cant remember what brand I used, any throttle/carby cleaner will be fine.

I know the Aussie delivered BNR's had that set up on the transfer case. Im pretty sure thats how they are with the factory cooler setups on the diff's as well.

90 degrees hey?? Um sorry be be a fun stopper but the caliper does get hot, remember that brake fluid absorbs water, and can boil in the caliper...thats over 100degress.... Besides the hub itself will get bloody hot from the wheel bearings..IMHO.I would be looking at using another material...

Hi mate. I tried repco here in Adelaide and they were able to get rack ends and tie rods both sides for like $160.

Thanks Roy! With my r32 GTR I intend to fit the 33 gtr front rotors and use the caliper brackets to suit. Is it worth fitting the 33 gtr rear rotors and doing the same with the caliper?

Mines no fire breather, but my big ends were set around 1-1.5 thou and the mains I set at 1 thou. I was bit worried that the mains could have been tight, but it was with in spec. I have since completed 30,000km plus. My Vl turbo done some 100,000km and I set the mains closer to 2 thou and the mains similar I think..... My first imression was that 2.5 thou sounds rather loose for an RB engine. Remember that NIZPRO run what are considered to be tight clearences, like 1-1.5 for both mains and big ends... Other than contaminated oil (or surge), detonation and clearence issues bearings are generally issue free. I totally sympathsize with you.

Sorry bout post above, I meant to ask do the rear r33 gtr rotors suit the r32 gtr, as in are the handbrake drum sections of the rotors the same?

Will 343mm rotors fit in a 17 inch rim? Also do the r33 brembo GTR rotor fit an R32, Is the hand brake part the same between them?

I've got a vl turbo, its always bubbled after switch off, done this for 8 years. Before and after I rebuilt it. Never caused any concern. And guess what? My R32 GTR does the same. Always has. I just dont let it bother me. Unless its using water simply ignore it. It's not hot by the guage, there's no problem.

Will the 343mm rotors fit a 17 inch rim?

Roy what are those 330 and 343 rotors off?

I'm only running woolies premium. Tuning has a lot to do with it. No air leaks, good signals from sensors etc, and make sure your you timing is advanced....retarding it for power kills economy.

Hell yes, I'm hunting around for a brake upgrade for my Zilla now. I'm currently doing the whole tie rod and rack end thing on her so I can put my Enkei's on (17x9) with out screwing them on the inside. Once they're on I want to put larger rotors on. I wanna keep the GTR calipers (sounds like they are a good caliper), just fill the rim a bit more, and really, these brakes were designed in the 80's. 16 inch was a big rim then. What I would like to know is: a: Has anyone changed their brake bias/proportioning valve to suit the greater leverage from the larger rotor? If not, do the front brakes wear quicker? b: Has anyone looked at changing the rear rotors? Thanks for everyones words so far

Woah....I usually aim for around 500km + out of a tank. Its a R32 GTR... Thats general driving around Adelaide....It evaporates when I'm having fun though

Bravo Sydney kid. My thoughts exactly....Dealerships pay mechanics F$#K all. I know, I'm still there. lol. Not on the tools now though. Yes most good/great mechanics work in private shops, but my guess is most leave the trade. How can a dipstick assmebly line worker at holden/ford/toyota who puts together a car earn far more than someone who knows how to disassemble. diagnose, repair and reassemble that same car?? Sounds stupid but thats the truth. All those guys at the assembly plants earn more than any employed mechanic i know of. Cars are personal, all I can suggest is take it to someone who can spend the time on your car, is patient, and don't be tight with paying them. Ever!

The oil serves two purposes on the under side of the piston. Yes one is purely to cool the piston from the high temps. The other is that cooler pistons mean a cooler burn which means better emissions. (Even some crappy old NA motors have oil jets). The bonus for performance is that a cooler piston creates a bigger difference in heat from intake stroke to exhaust stroke, leading to higher hp. So oil jets can cool the pistons, but you can take advantage of the cooler piston by running more timing or boost to make more power, which actually cancels out the cooling of the piston for reliability.