MYRB30

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Hey all, Does any one have the nissan dimensions that crash shops use to align the vehicle when being repaired? I ask cos when I got my wheel alignment my left hand castor wasn't correct. I have got adjustable bushes now, but I'd like to know how much this thing is out...Its a gtr by the way. Thanks all

Thanks o2 FNE. Most appreciated.

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I once comped at 1jz which showed around 250+ psi....lots of carbon in the chamber will do this

Yep sounds like play alright. Rear sub frame bushes rooted I guess. Drivers side front, check that bush. Big job, pain in the rear. Ive done two cars for other people, now my own has gone aswell. Oh well, the joys of owning cars

You CANNOT get the sump off with the gear box attached, there are two bolts behind the flywheel. This has been covered before, It is not practical to take the box out, to remove the sump. Just pull the engine, there is no way around it. And yes, I have done it. Sorry to be a spoil sport

The new NATS (Nissan anti theft) requires a unique code for EACH immobilizer before you can unlock the immobilizer and program the remote.....you think nissan will give that to you?????? Kinda like the original radio, but the serial number is encrypted, then you have to get the code based on that encrypted number....no amount of tinkering at home will change this. Of course alot of the other non security based software will be cracked by tuners.

Manufacturers not giving any support to grey imports is nothing new, and will always exist....Anyone tried getting factory subaru parts for that STI motor they imported?????You'll get no help.....Tried getting the J spec bumpers for a vr4 from mitsubishi?????You'll get no help.... These new nissans...well their engine, and body control management has been designed with alot of control given to the dealers. Its getting really hard for workshops outside of the manufacturer to get the software to work on these cars, even for really simple stuff. Try programing a late model Nissan key at home... IT CANNOT BE DONE! A trip to Nissan is required. This information may never be released by Nissan, so your grey import may end up being a nightmare that will not idle, drive, rev or even start...... Yes it ticks me off to the utmost degree, but Renualt (main shareholder of Nissan) need a return on the money invested to keep "Your Nissan" company alive (nissan walks a fine line between viable and bankrupt....only the french were game to purchase it). Ask yourselfs how you would be if some competitor was undercutting the business you work for. If you think Nissan are being unfair, hows about you do a degree in automotive engineering (you'll need fluid, aerodynamic, thermal, elctrical etc degrees also) and get a job at your local car manufacturer and produce a car similar. Truth be told the GTR is a bargain, and remember what happend to the dodge viper. It hit the market at $50,000 us, and is now at $200 000 i think, its so popular that they didn't have to increase production, they increased the price. The R35 GTR was built to rival the exoctics, and to beat them. A consequence of that is that only a lucky few will be able to say they can afford one.

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Sorry to drag up an old thread, but mine does this too. I've checked heaps of things, has anyone ever found the cause?

True, advance timing to make more power, but if they wind the boost up it will ping, so wind the crank angle sensor back to stop the pinging, but still got high boost. So everywhere else in the mapping the timing is retarded, and hence more fuel usage.

I've looked high and low and cant find anything out of the ordinary. BUT, the workshop manual is confusing the hell out of me. My door lock timer (driver side kick panel) has only five wires. The workshop manual has 6 wires for the timer on page 780, and then 7 wires on page 788!!!! Any help at all is most appreciated. Thanks matt

Hi all. I have put up with this problem for some time now, and its time to fix it. When I put the drivers window up (must go right up), the passenger door locks, which is quite embarassing/frustrating, and nearly causing a break up. lol. Other wise the electrics seem to be fine, other than the key switch which doesn't beep if the key is left in. I dont think they are related. Has any one has this problem? Any common things to be looking for?

There you go..............Don't listen to the guy who worked in that industry....the guy who has dealt with customs and quarantine and the australian registration authorities....And as for all cars from Japan being top nick...the last GTR we imported was so rusted its not even good for a race car/drift pig..... But hey dont listen to me

I get 400-450km out of my R32 GTR, around town. On highway I can get around 11-12 litres per 100. I am a mechanic so everything is pretty well spot on. A stock GTR for economy should be tuned as Nissan says, not the local dyno shop who has retarded your timing so you can have another 20 horsepower.

I worked in Importing for three years at one of Australia's busiest importers who prided themselves on good quality cars. Anything no up to spec was wrecked. We had guys in Japan working for us. GTR's doesnt matter what model, in top condition bring huge money in Japan. Always have, always will. Kinda like a Brock special in Australia, very rarely will a good genuine one sell for anything other than a premium price. So my point is GTR's have lost so much value locally that it is highly likely you'll find one you want here in Australia for a decent price. Importing is getting so expensive and difficult (Dont ask how hard the last 12 months were...I only left approx 1 month ago). And fines are being handed out for all sorts of things.....Air con gas.....and hey that brake pad might have asbestos in it...we need it tested...whoops it does, heres a fine for importing a banned substance..... Thats before you try complying it! Yes I imported my GTR throught work and complied it under the old 15 year ruling. Would I have ever done it outside of the industry? No f@#$%$*g way! Its too hard, and too expensive! IMHO put your energy into looking Australia wide (not sure how vic is about interstate cars, but SA will defect practically any car on interstate transfer) you can then see the car and more than likely purchase one that has had all the suspension/steering etc fixed and roadworthy, for less than the cost and hassle of the import yourself. Private importing is a risky game....I've seen too many kids crying at my old job because of import hassles.

Hi all. I got a R32 GTR with stockies, 8 inch 35/38mm offset (cant remember). I picked up a set of enkies from work, 17X9 with a 22 mm offset. Will these screw up my handling if I fit them? I've talked to some so called experts about it and the replies have been very unprofessional. One place who specialises in big rims replied with "All offset is good mate". Err no its not, it messes up wheel alignment angles real bad, scrub radius and track go out the window when messing with offset. Any knowledgable help if appreciated.

Depends what your budget is my friend. I have a figure in mind for mine, but is probably excessive. But hey its my car and I like it.

Hi all, can someone look at bnr32000489 for me? Thanks

Any luck on these parts? Im up for new front end joints (tie rods, rack ends and ball joints) any help with where to source them is appreciated...Damn Aussie roads flog these machines

Coulda been me. Black 32 GTR with a white "Autobot" sticker on rear of boot lid.

In adelaide. Ah, very good thanks

I have now got hold of a binary. I'm not sure how it'll handle Aussie fuel, I'll suck it and see. Surely someone has got one suitable for aussie fuel somewhere? I dont intend to do any major mods to it. If I ever decide to I'd get a real time tune done. I just want a fast reliable daily driver.

Hi guys, I've had a GTR r32 for sometime now, and its had its fair share of problems, (coils, air flow meter connections etc), but it has never had any real power. Even after fixing all these problems. Everything tested fine in the vehicle (yes, I am a qualified mechanic, and used the proper workshop manual and 10 years experience). I got my hands on two GTR computers, both have been chipped and holy hell is it a diferent car with these other ECU's in it! One of the ECU's pings terribly (as in down to the roundabout and thats enough thats coming out) and the second one is not too bad on the pinging. The chips in both of these has been soldered to the board. My original computer is also chipped (do stock gtr ECU's exist? lol), but a socket has been fitted to the board so my chip is removable. Now I have sent the ECU away to be tested, and the actual ECU tests out fine (they are unable to test the calibration of the chip, but all inputs and outputs are triggering correctly), so the conclusion is my modchip has died. I have to return these borrowed ECU's. I am not terribly worried if I have to burn my own chip, but what I would like to know is: 1: Does anyone know of a site where I can download a copy of a chip that is suitable for aussie fuel? Or 2: If there is a site I can get a copy of any of the stock maps? (Preferably not the gutless Aussie delivered tune) Or 3: Where I can get a chip I can just fit that will work well on the Aussie fuel? I dont intend on modifying it any more than how it is, airfilters, exhaust and restrictor removed. Any information anyone can offer on this topic is more than appreciated. Thanks