MYRB30

You cant find a block for your pathectic offering....I got one stored in plastic....I think we know who the idiot is.

$300 right? LOL, I got a perfect (thats right PERFECT) block wrapped up in plastic in the shed....but mate you aint getting any where near it for that price....price up a new one, then get realistic with your price.

I believe that the GTST has the same sticker. Surely someone can post or email me a picture? Please

Hi all, Im Heading to Regency this week, and I'm all set except for tyre placard. It was removed when painted. Can anyone please help me out with a copy or a picture of theirs? I have a gtr with the stock 8 inch rims. Any help much appreciated. Thanx

Hey mate, Did you ever get a reply to this? Im interested in building one myself.

Who supplies this sort of gear? Even in fibre glass?

Sorry people, I've searched, but to no avail. Is anyone aware of where I can get my hands on the sideskirts for the N1 32 gtr? I really am chasing the pods part that goes in front of the rear wheels. Plz help. All help is much appreciated. Thanks guys!

Is that a one off? thats a nice front lip

Sounds like your air regulator is stuffed. This causes the fast idle when cold, but if stuck gives a fast idle when warm too. The later ones can be opened and cleaned, but the earlier ones cant.

Speaking as a mechanic in the jap import industry, that sticker is there from factory to make it clear that the belt is to be changed. The japanese are going back to chain driven cams, so this may give them a proper reminder. I know on the GTR engines there is also a tag on the crank angle sensor that must be torn to adjust the timing. When you by a timing belt from Nissan you get a sticker to put on the engine, which you write the next belt change on, and also the sticker to go over the crank angle sensor once the timing is set. In my experiance (8 years in automotive industry) the actual kilometers a vehicle has travelled isn't all that useful in determining if the car is a decent piece of kit or a rooted out piece of junk. I've seen cars with 250,000 kms look like new. and I've seen cars with 50,000 kms that are good only as scrap. So take your time and check wearing parts like suspension and steering, brakes, and condition of things like hoses etc. you'll get a better indication of that rather than the speedo. My vl turbo had done over 200,000 kms when i bought it, now its nearly done 350,000 and the main issue ive had is an alternator.

$1500 dollars to rebuild a rb25 gearbox? With new gears? I'd like to get that done to mine. I am a mechanic, at a Nissan dealership (at the time) when I rebuilt my gearbox. Try over $1000 dollars just for all the bearings, at mates rates. You cant get gears for under $300, and syncros's start round $100. If I could have got my hands on a box for $1500 I wouldn't have been able to get the cash fast enough. The stress alone of checking and assembling a gearbox is worth that sort of money! (Especially a tight tolerance box like the rb25) I dare say your mates box was repaired, not rebuilt. There is quite a big difference. Another point, its quite possible that a factory assembled second-hand gearbox is going to be friendlier and better in the long run than a half assed repaired box. No one builds things as well as the crew at nissan!

Good luck mate. I've ended up getting a full fibreglass bar. Not ideal thats for sure. But it was around the same price as just the Genuine bottom lip.

Any luck chasing those pods? I'd like them too, but are proving elusive so far

Im still looking for wheels. Anyone?

Sounds good. are the rims in good condition? ie no major dents/buckles? Freight to adelaide?

Wanted to Buy: Two genuine R32 GTR rims. Will consider buying set of four if neccesary. I'm in Adelaide, not worried about freighting them here.

Are these wheels still available?

Hi there, Are those rims still for sale?

Alot of these imports die after landing. Its from changing the oil! How? Well the japs don't do oil changes often, which means lots of build up in the oil system. We put fresh oil in them, new oil has detergents which clean the build up off, and next thing you know you have oil related issues. Dont mess around. Pull the donk out, up end the motor and lift off the sump. You can pull the crank out then and work on it. Look at the bores if they seem fine, just work on the crank and bearings. Why pull the head off if you dont need too? Alloy heads don't like being removed and refitted any more than they need to. It can cause them to crack. This is exactly what I did to mine when I lost oil pressue. Fixed the crank and bearings, threw the sump back on and put it in the car. Relatively cheap really. If you plan on modifying it in the future then you may want to do a full rebuild now. Its your choice. Note, workshops may not cover you with a warranty if they don't do a full rebuild. If your concerned about bearing material through the motor, cut open the oil filter and see how much junk is in there and if it has caused the filter to go to bypass. I would doubt it though. On mine I replaced the oil pump coz it had chips in the gears. This is my opinion, and incase your wondering yes, I am a qualified mechanic. In a perfect world the motor would be fully rebuilt. Hell why not get a os giken rb30 for it? I try to do repairs that are effective, and give value for money, leaving money for the bits that really make a difference.

Any sort of front lip would be great. They appear to always get ripped off. Even fibre glass could be worth it. Are there any other options available?

If thats for the pair im very interested. In adelaide too!

As far as im aware only the cams are different? Could be wrong. Fit the original cams and turbos and you should be fine. How stuffed is the old engine?

Obviously mine's been given a new crank/engine sometime. I've got the later style crank. The problem is too much silicon on the sump which has made its way into the oil pump pressure relief valve and stuck it partly open. The crank journals are fine. Its the thrust bearing surface that's stuffed. Haven't been able to find anyone willing to machine it either! May have to get another bottom end.

Wish it was registered other wise that rb30 sitting in the shed would be going in it. D'oh!

Least you got to drive yours! I picked up a stolen and recovered one. Idled nicely, started well. Yep I bought it. Drove it on the trailer, drive it off the trailer at home. Start putting the interior etc together before i register it. Then it turned to %$^t! My mate starts it and asks why my oil pressure guage doesn't work. Strip the bottom end. Previous rebuild had too much silicon on the sump and jammed the oil pump relief valve open! Been like it for a while cos the thrust bearing surface on crank is rooted. So i kinda lost motivation for fixing my GTR too!