BezerkR32

torque plate honing is done when you are boring a sleeved engine, ie alluminium block with steel liners. it is done to prevent the liners moving. pistong ring filing should be done with a little tool called a pistor ring grinder. you turn the grinding wheel by hand and the ring sits on either side or as greg mentioned an electric one. it doesnt hurt to measure piston to bore clearance by feel. you can do it with a long set of feeler guages. try each piston in each bore and you will get a feel of which fits best in each cylinder. i havent built an engine with 4thou piston to bore clearance for about 10 years.

put the car on our scanner at work and it displayed a 4wd motor fault. im guessing this is the pump motor in the boot. Can anybody confirm this.

ive got a funny feeling your not allowed or supposed to use metal containers, due to the risk of static disharge. maybe its an andra thing and no a cams rule. i can get plenty of VP twenty litre drums if you like.

x2

no worries, so your going for a look then? I can get tyres as local Bob Jane has agreed to supply them for some signage, just have to do some more logging to finish tune, oh and put gerabox back in, have reverse gear scattered all over my bench. ill get it running and maybe we can do a practice day to set it up.......see what you reckon.

lol

ill see if my rocket account is still active, been 12 months but should work.

hey neil, dont know if you remember the red Jazz churns i had at the last track day.....they havent leaked so far and one still is full from october. They are rated for alcahol also. I payed $70 each.

im in for this as long as i get the gearbox back in. keen to do wakefield.

there is no point dynoing it for diagnosing a problem at idle, sounds like an air leak or possibly tps switch requires re-setting.

i have 2 mufflers now, which is one more than most of you blokes. maybe if i do the seel wool trick. or maybe fit some mufflers that muffle.

ahhh, cops in space, they had this years ago in warrawong when i first got my liscense. was found not to be cost effective. im more worried about the point to point thing happening on the m7. that is accurate. ill be doing as liitle driving as possible over the next 2 weeks...massive police presence already being felt in the gong. ps, why cant we use the word cop lol.

Stumbled across Skyline Nationals 2010 Thread, Shown shine, cruise and track day at Mallala Adelaid. This could be cool, its later in the year though, Sep 10. Posted in National Events Section.......any thoughts.

this is perfect, we were talking about an interstate track day, this is even better. Make sure this is posted in the motorsports section.

if i drop the exhaust after the mufflers under the car is it still classified as sidepipes... love to have a steer but not sure im allowed. im helping out with marshalling, but might bring her up and see if i can have a run or 3.

coilovers are generally designed for motorsport use, therefore are hard and noisy, they also have a short life-span. as 5000 track km is a couple of race seasons, 5000km 0n the road is 3-6 months. Buy something that is serviceable as street driving will work them hard. There are plenty of shock and spring combinations that are better suited for a daily driver and cheaper.

yes mate, have done the 4 corners package the last 2 years and was in Jones on the Sunday this year. very good.

definately have to be Chev powered....black on yellow and noisy lol

3-5 hrs to do pads and rotors lol, if the blokes disabled. Where i work would charge a max of 3 hours at $82.50 Pads would be around $60-$80 if you are running Bendix general GCTs or heavy Duty which is all you need for a street driven car. Rotors are $50 each for a standard, if you decide on a slotted you can pay $70-$90 A rotor. Dot 4 Brake Fluid $17 So max would be $790 Paying any more than that means you are being ripped or paying for items you do not need for general street driving. If you do track days i recommend you have a seperate set of pads and rotors. more than likely you have a cheap set of pads in the front which are a very hard compound. I reckon you would probably be up for pads and rotors on the front and a disk machine a de-gaze on the rear which would be cheaper again.....

so Matic J Synthetic for the Auto and transfer, 75w90 GL4 front diff and 80w90 LSD GL5 for th rear diff..... This sound OK?

hey guys, want to do 40k service and want to replace front & rear diff and transfer oils, was told that the auto oil was long drain, just after oil grades and viscosity for these if possible. cheers Stuart

x2 quote name='MBS206' date='20 Dec 2009, 11:34 PM' post='4996420'] Duncan, I can lend a hand if need be. Willing to help organise or do what ever.

no one dis-agrees, but this requires the removal of the top tank, costs about $88. all i am saying is check the fan first.

i have come across this with RB30 & rb25 clutch assy being different, but both are available aftermarket. $110

it still might not be the case but worth checking.