BezerkR32

yeh i second that. its definately the best rear end ive seen since Bar 20 in Melbourne last March. hope it all works like intended, otherwise autosalon is a go. must be a good feeling to hear the engine run. well done guys. Barons got me freeking now that every time i brake im going to go around.. lol.

legs arent the issue, i couldnt shift into 6th under 105kmh in the commodore without labouring it. i put it off the clock in 5th, 230kmh. stock standard vx ss. should see alot more of 6th gear now.

im pretty sure its a 4.3:1. yeh the holden ratios were way to tall, you get get a commodore to boogie by putting in a set of 3.7s. as for the box ratios im not sure.

1st and last mate. no more, lost enough hair lol. planning on ducting the front bar when i get her back. the tossers will think the radiator is a cooler anyway. trust me, the cam is big enough, its the bigest hydraulic comp cams has ground for a small cube ls1. we were gambling that the fact the car is lighter than your average comodore that we will get away with it. plus the diff ratio and 6 speed should help. ill send her over if the missus makes me sell it.

its true, its definately much harder for you to watch all those guages over 400m then turn around, than me to look at mine over a lap of EC. your definately pushing the envelope.

sounds like you may have an over-travel issue. is shouldnt have to move that far to disengage clutch.

any GTR rear cradles would be the go. Can get the whole cradle for around $1000. That way you have the diff, shafts and hubs. as far as driveshaft i personally had a 3" single piece shaft made. that way i had the gtr uni at the back and i had a heavy duty uni put at the front, but i am running a 6 speed tremec and ls1.

only whats already been posted, nothing much else has changed.

what, 3 and a tacho, not even in the ballpark.

i have it on good advice that any car you are driving is scary Roy lol i

Had this cage built 2 years ago a ProFab motorsport fabrication. was initially built for a drag car. we added a second side intrusion bar on the drivers side when we decided to use the car for circuit. Box method was used for the main hoop with large floor plates at the front and rear.

tell me about it, its got more guages than a 747. and if you ask him at the end of a run what was doing what his answer is usually i dont know. lol

the other way is to run different fuel, i am planning on running a Ethanol based fuel so fuel temp will not be an issue.

i cant see that a cage that has been ANDRA approved will have any issue being CAMS approved, but maybe not the other way around. From what the guys have told me CAMS are not as stringent with there inspections, but in saying that i am sure there is minimum guidelines.

A little more done. I have fitted the LS1 wiring harness and ran it into the car to the ECU which is mounted on the passenger floor. Mounted com port plug in pasenger air vent. modified the harness and moved the position of the o2 sensor plugs as they were mounted further down the exhaust before, now they are in the headers. brakes are bled, clutch also. fluids in engine, trans & diff. Modified the steering knuckle a little just to get a bit more clearance. had to relieve passenger engine mount also. had to pump the trans tunnel around the shifter opening also. Radiator, thermo fan and hoses all plumbed. Temp sender was fitted in cylinder head. Tow hooks fitted front and rear. Fitted diff pineapples, waiting for front & rear sway-bars to arrive. Thats about it, going to get wired this week, then doing the tin work and fabbing a catch can and recovery tank and some ducting. Should get her back after Christmas.

so realistically for the amature doing track days, practice days and the ocassional sprint you can get away without it. and if you run it in the rear circuit it will aid in tighter circuits. if it rains you go home like the drag boys do lol. im still running the standard master with r33 booster and the G4s front & rear. I guess its a case of suck it & see. I read a story on the Stop Tech web site and it got pretty full on into where the pressure is actually applied relative to the pedal pressure and stroke. i had to have a few beers and read it again to understand that i didnt really understand and should just ask you guys. im not driving a super taxi and i guess most guys who do wouldnt understand either, they just have an engineer tell them turn brake bias two clicks clockwise. everything was so simple when you didnt have to worry about brakeing and turning.

whoosy drag racers, oooh, we cant race in the wet.

is it the one with the blue knob? if so can it be used without the pedal box set-up as it says something about balance bars etc. i didnt understand.

yeh, have seen that set-up, looking for a valve with a de-tent set up so you can count the turns of adjustment.

Ive got some part numbers out of the rocket catalouge, what kind of money should you pay for a valve?

Ok, so do you plumb it it the front or rear circuit? as you know it only reduces pressure to that circuit, so do you plumb it in the rear and leave it fully open when you want rear brake or plumb it in the front to reduce the amount of front brake? plumbing in the front would be harder, but thats what ill do if necessary.

think everybody will be running full wets anyway.

F&ck that, those lease people dont pay their bills, should have charged them double.

a little off topic guys, sorry, but do you intend on running a brake bias controller? is it necessary at this level, and if so where is the best place to purchase one? i was wondering whether to leave it for know and do it later.

i agree that a good quality kit is much less of a headache to fit, but some cars are shit to work on regardless. i replaced a set of low mounts on a 33 gtr last week. used some manifolds with a balance pipe on top so had to fabricate water feeds, also fabricated oil feeds as the hard pipes are a mongrel. after 2 days of f@%KING AROUND I WENT HOME AND TOLD MY WIFE I DIDNT WANT TO DO THIS ANYMORE. im closing the shop at the end of december. from know on i am only working on nissans with chevs in them. you can all jam your 300s, gtrs, gtirs etc. funny that nissan build the best sports cars but also the worst to work on. i now agree with he mentality of other shops to charge like wounded bulls to work on these heaps of sh$t. charging fairly never got me anyware. the day of the modified street car is dead as most shops cant be f@cked and people wont pay the money the job is worth, unless your from sydney where it seems you can charge anything and people pay. plus cops are sending everybody to EPA testing. looks like dedicated track cars are the go and people will be doing there own work. thats my rant and before you ask, yes i have had a few beers.