BezerkR32

can always run bigger pill

for those that dont know how a transbrake works, in simple terms it engages reverse gear when first gear is selected. so you roll into stage in fist gear, engage T/B and then hold down micro-switch. reverse gear is then also engaged meaning that the transmission is trying to drive against itself. you then release the brake and apply the throttle firmly. boost can be built as there is obviously load as the transmission pushes against itself. this is where the converter comes in. think of a loose or standard converter as a car with clutch slip. a loose converter will allow you to see alot of rpm while on the transbrake. this is good as it will come up quick, but it will behave like a car with clutch slip when you leave, giving you an average 60foot time and poor MPH overall. A tight converter is best but slower to see rpm and make boost. This is where Nos comes in. Anyway you are on the gas at 4500rpm and 15psi. you release the microswitch which releases reverse gear and away you go. its like those toy cars that you drag backwards and then let go. the glove box flies open and shit goes every where and the front wheels are in the air for the fist 40 feet. cool.

do you mean rear diff cradle? if so im thinking that you would have to get one custom fabricated. Next question is why?

the pump is designed to be plumbed in this manner, hose length also substitutes for oil cooler, not that a drag car needs one.

in that case i hope it does otherwise your going to be up for some exhaust manifold mods, as your compressor housing is tight now. wont get anything bigger on.

definately the right choice for your application...

the driveability of the 30/40 is excellent, have fitted this turbo to half a dozen r33s, two auto, the majority of these with standard internalls. adrians with the bigger exhaust housing due to the engine mods and use of gas. you be silly to upgrade to anything smaller. I would seriously consider gt42 if it is a auto race car. all-so finished the pressure side of the oil system, ran hose around radiator and through inline filter on driver-side chassis rail. there is a good 2 meters of -12 hose which eliminates the need for an oil cooler. mounted filter in a bosch fuel pump bracket. my work is almost done.

engine assy is in and bolted up. Nothing major to modify, just have to relocate a few minor things, and mount some of the new additions but otherwise all good. Aftermarket balancer is incorrect however and will need to be replaced. Shoud complete the majority of these things today with exception to the balancer. Thermo fan & shroud will also require fitting as engine fan and factory shtoud no-longer fit.

the rule continually states wet cell battery, i cant see why you couldnt run a dry cell battery inside the cabin.

Far out. $11000 is a lot of money, but when you sit back and actually look at what you get for your dollar its well worth it. If you were to compare it to an RB25, you would pay $4500 for a manual front cut, and then have to spend $15000 to make between 400 & 500hp.(Thats if you payed someone to do it) It is the sensible choice. In my case i didnt spend any where near $11000, but my engine is a 5.7 and i have spent $5000 on it to make 450hp. But any way you look at it, dollar wise it seams a good choice. Now it just has to perform. Its no good it being cheaper if it goes like a 253ci red motor. Rather the RB any day. Time will tell. at least it will sound tough, nobody can ever take that away. There is no arguing that the turbo motors make excellent power, but at what cost. maybe 2rismo could give us some idea how much it costs to have your RB25 make 500hp. Or maybe he shouldnt say infront of his wife....... sorry mate

ill talk you through it, Paul in the GTI cuts an excellent light ( take note 2rismo) and takes off down the track only to be consumed by a semi out of control black skyline pushing hard towards the centre line but managing on this occasion to keep it in his lane for the win. little GTI follows with a PB.

my ears just pricked up, did somebody say Monique, i want one of them too

forgot to ask you, did yoy happen too see the pro stock car run............i want one.

how did i know that ben was talking about you?

Finished fuel system today, also fitted seat, harness, fire extinguisher and window net. starting to take shape. I can sit in it and pretend now...

if you had of put both his balls in your mouth at the same time he might have given you the better one....... A bit unprofesional to sell the plenum knowing that there was issues with it, unless it was cheeeeeeep. Nevertheless, plenum is sorted, sump is also well underway so our work will be done very soon......hope to be finished this week. sorry, i have broken the one beer rule again..

thats right. adapter goes between g/box & rb bellhousing. my bad...

the plenums are very well made, just need a little refining. i like to retain the metal gasket with the rubber orings. this gasket only came out in series 1s, and you cant get them any more. they hold their shape and seal well. the all rubber gasket moves and gets squeazed out the side. have removed these seals when the metal one was not available and just used a paper gasket with sealer also. this works, but have to discard the studs supplied also.

tailshaft was a custom unit. GTR rear uni with front yoke to suit tremec with f100 uni. this cost around $800.

you use the powerglide bellhousing with an adaptor plate

seriously, yor quite welcome to come to the shop and have a go, but they are the same mount that came out of my 32gtst, 33 mounts are round. they will not fit without modification and even then, what makes them any better than the standard mount that lasted 12 years before failing.

soon is the emphasized word, unfortunately adrian is learning the hard way as we all do that when you modify, you can expect teathing problems. When you modify to the extent that adrian has, the more problems to rectify. some due to poor workmanship of parts supplied, others down to poor or miss-communication, and somethings you just cant forsee, oh the joys. After repositioning the external oil pump bracket, which was much less painless than expected, we continued the fit-up. next was the plenum. Looks pretty enough but was quite envolved in fitting. It was found that the studs supplied bottomed out before they were flush with the base, which meant the gasket had no crush and would not seal. had to remove all studs, countersink holes in plenum, clean threads then re-install studs. Plenum was now fitted. all was good until it was found that the vacuum port thread for the brake booster was welded over. had to mask plenum up, die-grind weld back, re-tap thread and machine fitting down. Just when we thought it was all good we found that the throttle cable bracket did not have enough clearance for the cable retaining bolts. So out came the die grinder again. This was a mission for us in a workshop with all the tools necessary. Hate to have been attempting this at home in the garage. Next was the turbo water feed plumbing. The factory pickup point was unfortunately overlooked when the block was grouted so had to find an alternative point. ended up using the port behind the thermostat housing and eliminating the bleeder port and throttle body plumbing. next was the oil pump/sump plumbing. Just before fitting the engine it was noticed that the position of the sump pickup fitting was in a position where it would not clear the engine crossmember. Could have been worse i guess, could have fitted the engine and then noticed. The sump will have to come back off and the fitting moved. Hopefully after all these issues are rectified it will be smooth sailing for Adrian and his project. But lessons have been learned all round. sometimes too many cooks spoil the broth, but it will all be well worth it in the end. The worst part is these setbacks which require rectifying are time consuming and therefore expensive to resolve. An unwelcome additional cost seeing you have already payed good money for the item or service provided. This is not even a case of you get what you pay for as sometimes you pay good money and it still the product or service falls short due to poor communication or workmanship. At the end of the day communication is the key, when you are getting something fabricated or supplied, get some advise from whoever is fitting it as they may have encounted issues with products previously and can help to avoid these issues. but on some occasions you just have to suck it and see. After the sump is modified the engine will be fitted and it should be smooth sailing. Adrian would have much loved to race his new baby this weekend but as you can see its not going to happen. He will be racing however in a borrowed car, wish him luck for the meeting and his project.

the cars can, most guys who drive them get a bit confused when the car isnt pointing straight. Adrian is a good example, you should have seen him in my go kart, very funny. good luck with the stup mate.. power sure is not a problem.

he was running in the street tyre class last season which means no slicks. i have had 15' rims on the rear of my gtst and a front runner with big offset on the front, otherise the single pot calliper will give you more clearance. dont need big brakes for drag racing, and if your planning on going fast enough to run slicks you will have a chute anyway.

you look to have explained it very well, besides everyone can see how good my work is. besides this thread is more interesting than mine at the moment. lots of bling to be seen. at least you know you can always enter the car in autosalon if it is to slow. ha ha ricer...