BezerkR32

Agree, definately due to the salting of the road, my 32 has surface rust on all the seems underneath, some more extensive rust in the rear quarters, some in the sills under the skirt and a little in the corner of the front floor pans. I guess its also an age thing. they are not as young as they used to be. All is be repairable in my case but it looks as if some of us havent been as lucky.....

30k will buy you 2, or one 33 GTR

Few pics of engine & transmission dummy up, had to cut small section of transmission tunnel on passenger side. Had a few sets of engine mounts lying around, unfortunately cant remember what was what but they bolted directly to RB30 block and to crossmember perfect. Got a bit lucky. I think they are RB25 mounts. Just have to finish rear crossmember then get shaft made.

a burnout is what happens when you forget to switch the 4WD back on silly.

In the states dont you have to drive your car around a circuit for a few miles in order to qualify it to run in a street class? Thats a good idea if it is the case.

Plugs on coils are a redish colour on series one and grey on series two

Does it get hot in traffic or while on the higheway? Clutch fans a common for failing, this will cause it to heat up when in traffic.

I think you will strugle to make close to that with the RB20, will do it with a 25 but all you will be able to use is your FMIC & coil packs. the rest you will be able to sell. It is possible to make 250rwkw with a 20 if you squeeze it hard enough, otherwise Rb25 with about 12k worth of bolt ons and labour to fabricate & fit etc. 25 will make this power with standard internals but bolt ons are not cheap. can also make 250kw comfortably with less modification and expense.

Still have front & rear door trims, Quater glass trims or C pillar tims sold.

They would do the cage different for street use, the side intrusion bars would be removable, and it would all have to be fitted with roof lining and pillar & door trims, would be 6 point, not 8 so you could sit people in the back etc etc but can be done.. Quick street car 10.99 or quicker?

Roll cage was done by Pro Fab in Wollongong. It is a 8 point Molly cage. also includes rear strut brase bar and front dash cross bar. Cost $2900 fitted. they have to come and finish the seat support and parachute bracket. Its a bit hard to see from the pics but there was a huge amount of work done on the floor to mount the cage on boxes and plates. Took the best part of a week. Yeh getting exited now that it is starting to take shape.

I know you cant with a 32, front guards are narrower as well. can buy GTR bars to suit GTST in fibreglass. I bought one from JS Auto Imports. Very good quality and fit. 0405 153 290.

Added a few pics

VpW shold sell Cometic, otherwise JPC definately do, otherwise i can get one out of Sydney for you. about $280 delivered.

I agree with 90% of what you have said but this idea that 300kw will kill a Rb25 is silly. The cars arent on max boost all the time, and if the tune is good you wont have a problem, plenty of cars making this power now days without a hitch. who would of thought that a standard RB25 could handle over 150 passes on 100 shot of nitrous? there are a few cars getting around that are daily driven and have copped that abuse also. The only things that will kill one is lack of maintenance, poor tune or overboosting without correct supporting mods eg ECU, fuel pump injectors. If you set yourself a power goal, you can then modify to suit. common knowledge that standard Turbo can make 200rwkw with FMIC, Exhaust, PFC & some type of boost controller. But as the guys have said, first mod should always be your ECU.

shouldnt the supplier have supplied you with fitting instructions and a list of parts?

Yeh nice to drive but wait to you have to work on one....

What stud pattern is your car? I have a couple if you want one.

You should have dynod car before you modified it, then you would no if you made any improvement, probably best not to shoot your mouth off as you have no idea what car made in stock form. if you are seeing an extra 2 pound of boost, the exhaust mod is clearly working. Put some boost in it and the dump pipe will come into its own.

Hey, just noticed the g/box and manual conversion in the classifides, your the biggest, something you should be telling me?

Hi mate, Pm me with some more details and price.

I guess thats why sport compact racing is so much better suited to our racing. ANDRA should have a good look at how we divide classes up. with the exception of 4WD racing against 2WD, but we wont go there again. Its definately the speed difference that is scary. Just like how your car runs 120mph and mine will run 160mph, HaHa.

Just out of curiosity, if you happen to have a problem with one or more of these coil units that were imported how do you have the warranty sorted out or coils replaced?

i understand where you guys are coming from, but putting a metal headgasket in is not the fix for poor tune, now the detonation will brake ring lands instead of blowing the head gasket. so if you think lowering comp ratio is the way to eliminate knock your going the wrong way about it. good luck with it, but if i was splitting my engine id be doing more than replacing the head gasket.

He only wants to make 250rwkw, not 400, why advise him to spend a thousand dollars if it is not necessary? Boost or comp , tune to suit, higher comp = lower peak boost, and vise versa, i run 9.5:1 and 30 psi to make over 400kw, i would have to run 35-40 to make that power with 8:1 comp. and you loose mid range with lower comp. it is a street car after all. There are plenty of people making good power on standard internals including head gaskets on this forum. ask around? a few examples are Adrian Hodgson (2RISMO) making 265rwkw with 100 gas, Daniel Beer Making 285rwkw, Rob Brown Making 290rwkw, all street cars, all standard internalled, Jason is seeing well over 300rwkw and has run a 10sec pass in his car.