BezerkR32

All the heavy hitters involved know, just have to put a bit of shit on 1j & 2Jz in cressidas and then every body will be upset.

Thankyou bu5ter, your opinion as a GTST driver means the world to me. you know what i am going through as you also run GTR parts, which would also classify you as a big cheater ricer haaaaaaaa.

Thats what you would think but it seems that some people think differently, maybe its just a R33 driver thing, they have complexes about their cars being overweight fat whales, so they cheat with a 100 shot of gas.

As some of you know, i have purchased a R32 GTST, i have purchased a GTR rear Diff assy for strength, GTR rear quarter panels as to run a larger tyre, and a GTR front style bar to suit the large front mount. I have no intentions of changing the front guards, running GTR wings Or Badging it as such, but it seems that some members of this forum not mentioning any names 2rismo, BU5TER and all the other whale riders have already labeled it as a GTR cheater ricer wanabe. So my question is, what classifies a car as a GTR wanabe. Someone who is using parts for performance improvement, or one who badges his GTST as a GTR although it is stock. all opinions welcome, as in my opinion nitrous is the for cheater ricer f**ks and 2rismo knows im going to chop him hard.

I think fair example might be Rockos performance rx7, standard 2j, runs mid 8s, tough, even though its in a Mazda, just gos to show that the straight sixes are gaining respect from the drag racing community that was prodominantly v8s and rotarys.

This stuff has to go, reasonable offers will not be refused. Plenty of interest but only a few concrete sales. I am very negotiable and have lots of other parts that are not listed. Regards Stuart.

Seconded

Try to find one that has not been modified, no boost controllers, exhausts or pod filters. gives you a small hint on the cars backround. I had a customer buy one from an importer in melbourne, had aftermarket boost controller on it. broke ring lands on 4 pistons 4 weeks later. the japs like to drive them hard too. Be very careful with the warranty you have also as it does not cover some mechanical failure or turbos. and usually only pay up to $4000. His bill was about $6500. That was for an exchange engine + parts & R&R. he got lucky as i did the job for nothing and kept the blown engine, but he could have been $2500 out of pocket. Warranty mob were pricks also, constant phone calls to Melbourne for about 4 weeks before they finally coughed up, was a nightmare experience but all is good now. Hard to no if there is any underlying mechanical weaknesses due to previous abuse. Car was running fine when he got it and drove it back to Sydney, but a few weeks of fun put the final nail in the coffin. Probably best to expect to have to spend some money on it. On the flip side i have customers running modified turbo setups on 18psi with no problems, its a bit of a lottery. good luck with it. they are the best value for money sports car on the market for around $20k and are lots of fun when running well.

I hadnt even noticed that, ive never driven the car, have the mirrors 2. looks like some kind of demister button.

second this post, which turbo was hi-flowed?

yeh i do, asking $50 the lot.

have some parts for sale listed in for sale section for those that might be interested. heaps of interior stuff and some mechanical.

Full Pro wheel drive car. give those rataries a run, thats the shit, cant wait to see it run.

You dont need a full slick as you will be required to run a tail shaft loop, and cross ply front tyres if you run them. Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials are what you are after. most of the guys who race on this forum use them. can 1.6 sixty foot on them, so they do the job very well. have them on shelf. you would be looking for 255/50/16 and run them on 32GTR rims or 300zx rims. $250 each.

Have replied to all PMs and will post pics Tomorrow.

Those windows are sicaflxed in, do you mean the seal between the door and quarter glass?

All the parts you are after are included in the dash and are in perfect condition. will add pics of all parts on monday.

Selling the following parts from a R32 GTST 2 door. * RB20DET complete including wiring harness and ECU. new water pump, timing belt, thermostat & plugs. $1100 (SOLD) * Front & rear door trims and hood lining. $250 (will seperate) (rear quater glass surrounds sold) * power window regulators and glass. $150 per side. D/S/F window glass SOLD (will seperate) * Quater glass. $100 ea * complete dash pad including vents, speedo head and stereo surround, centre console and glove box. $200 (SOLD) * heater box/air conditioning evaporator and condensor. all ducting. $100 * GTR rear wing. $50 (SOLD) * speedo cable, boot release cable. $20 (speedo cable sold) * rear cradle assy minus diff centre and brakes. $200 (SOLD) * R32 GTR rear hi-cas rack $150 (SOLD) # R32 GTR power steer pump $75 * Complete front steering rack assy. $150 * full wiring loom $30 * other assorted bits and pieces. * have some R33 interior trims and complete passenger door assy. interest welcome. * two sets of rear tail lights suit R33. blue and silver. $ 150 a pair. * R33 4.3:1 ratio LSD diff Centre $ 350 * R33 rear hi-cas rack $150 * Nismo bootlid spoiler & boot assy in silver. $500 ono Will post pics for whoever is interested.

piston is not fauling on crankshaft counterweight is it, or crankshaft have excessive endfloat? unless pin is grabbing little end and piston, lubrication problem. never seen anything like it, thats big.

the seat belt tensioner system is a one off use only, you will no when it goes off. have to replace it afterwards.

check wheel speed sensors are clean. can also check them with multimeter. have ABS module if you need it.

you need the rear to squat a little and the front to push up to asist this weight transfer, but after the launch you need the rear suspension to seperate, pushing the tyres down into the track, this is the trick, especially with IRS cars that want to squat and stay squating. Spring rate and shock adjustment is critical and may take a few test and tune days to get working well.

thats sick bro

are you serious, isnt the factory box bolted to the car, and the AFM bolted to that, how is securing the pod & AFM any different? Most pods come with brackets.

Restricted to 28x9" slick in oz mod, Have GTR rear cradle assy fitted so ill see how that goes, will have to do alot of spring and shock testing to get it working well. Looking at re-valving front struts. Running a 2 speed glide built by Protrans. Brakes are all standard, 2 spot rear and 4 spot front, car had slotted rotors on it. Trying to keep weight down to 2500 pounds, give me a chance against those rotarys. Thats about it really, its nothing out of the ordinary, i just think Adrian got a bit excited.