BezerkR32

Can help you with top feed rail, otherwise have your rail chromed. duel feed rail requires the fittment of aftermarket reg also, have fiited a couple supplied by a local guy who makes them and they are not much chop, had to modify it to fit. were originally designed for VL. pics attached.

mmmmmmmmmm Monique

All sounds sweet, sorry to hear about the problems though. Have you heard of a kimetic head gasket, pretty sure they are cheaper than $400 and are designed for very high boost pressures and nitrous engines. arguably th best gasket available. Have pmd you with specs and price of head gasket.

I agree to a certain extent but there are power gains to be found in a plenum that is designed correctly. if it is just for the bling factor i would say spend your money on something else. If it is because you are trying to lower intake air temps and increase air speed, or increae intake runner length to increase midrange torque i would say do it. Depends on your goals and application, they are generally a supporting mod for other modsifications such as larger turbo and aftermarket ECU. It also makes a changing plugs a breeze. but as already stated i probably is not a mod i would do on a stock to mildly modified car. attached a pic of one i make. also has billet top feed fuel rail and 80mm throttlebody.

correct me if i am wrong but i thought this thread was about conserving some kind of fuel economy. now it is just a free for all performance upgrade thread. suggest everybody reads first post again to see what the guy is trying to achieve. as far as i understood he was upping exhaust housing as to increase lag so turbo was not always on boost to conserve fuel. Mate if i were you i would be spending my money on a auto to manual conversion. will work out cheaper and give you excellent economy results. have done a few now and customers have told me they gained 80-100km a tank.

Make sure you use teflon lined hose for oil feed, -4 is ample. -6 line is what we use for water and -12 for oil return. Motorsport connections can supply all fittings. will cost around $300. will be able to see if cartridge is fitted with restricter as oil feed hole is phisically smaller.

if it snapped the shaft you definately have an oil feed issue.

Boost pressure is not the issue, its volume. If this turbo flows more air at 10psi you may run into trouble. the more air, more fuel has to be added. i would personally wait till i could afford a ECU so the car could be tuned to suit. Cant say if the car will run alright wiyhout knowing how much that turbo flows and at what pressure it will flow at, and series 2 standard computers are very sensiteve to boost increases as the boost retart will come into play.

do you know that 400rwkw is about 536hp, dont thing there is any turbo on the market that will produce that power on or under 20psi and still be streetable, especially on 95ron fuel. suggest you be a little more realistic with power figure, say 300kw. Can make this power with GT35/40 with 1.00 or 1.06 rear with other supporting mods safely on pump on mild boost. 38mm gate will be ample for this combination. If you go bigger like a Gt42 or TA45 you may need to step it up to a 48mm or 50mm gate. but these turbos are designed to be boosted hard. They really dont work efficiently on lower boost pressures and you are still stuck with the lag factor. Good luck with it.

I know, how tough is it. picks the left front wheel up at half track. awesome.

Check oil feed line isnt blocked. have you got the compressor wheel? have seen front nut come off and cause wheel failure.

For those of you that might be looking for something to do on Sunday, there is a test'n'tune/bracket meeting on at the WSID on Sunday. there is a strong field already pre-entered including 6 pro stock cars, a top alcahole dragster and a top fuel dragster testing, as well as all the competitors in the bracket meet. should be a excellent day weather permiting. I think racing starts at 10am through to about 5pm.

Hi mate, not being a smart arse but can I ask why you want to upgrade the side feed rail?

Cams will fatten up mid range depending on what you run, 256 with 8.5mm lift are most common on Rb25 and work well. but you didnt mention anything about replacing valve springs, highly recomended to do this before installing camshafts, as standard springs are at their limit at about 22psi at 7000rpm. When you oder cams order RB20 inlet cam so you can fit adjustable cam gear.

Im all for pushing the car hard to test, dont see how drifting it is necessary, but if your O.K. with it. Just makes you wonder if your mechanic sees this as common practice with other peoples cars.

He said its intermittent, dont think they straighten them selves out when they feel like it.

Ignitors are a common failure on 32 rb20 also. gives you same symptoms.

In NSW you can increase capacity by 10 or 15%, like the old red motors in old Holdens, could go 149 to 186ci with no hassles. Ask your blue slip swtation or engineer.

I agree totally, these adjustments should be done on a dyno see you can see the result of your adjustment. your car is different to the next and will require different settings.

this is the sort of customer i was talking about. of course the mechanic f**ked it. its not at all possible that the 14 year old gasket failed by itself.

Trust is something a mechanic must earn, it doesnt matter if it is a small shop or well known business, small shops are more likely to look after your car better as the bad publicity will hurt them more, as for the bigger more popular shops they probably wouldnt care if you didnt bring it back. Ive got customers that have had their cars worked on at those so called well known and respected workshops and you wouldnt believe the horror stories. Dealerships are the worst for car thrashing though. Lots of apprentices. At the end of the day your mechanic has a responsibility to check his work in a sensible manner. this doesnt mean he has the right to test drive the car after replacing a headlight globe. Ask around, other people can refer you to a workshop they have used and usually you will be O.K. On the other side of the coin there are some customers that mechanics dont want to deal with. Try not to stereotype all mechanics as being car thrashers, because its not true. you can usually get an idea of a shop straight away, look if the shop is clean, do they use seat covers and floor mats etc. Usually a good sign of how proffesional they are. As for the poor bloke who started this thread, I hope you get it sorted out and try to understand we are not all like that.

Thats werd, thanks mate.

Could someone please tell me or guide me in the right direction. I am after R33 RB26DET valve clearance specs and camshaft cap torque spec. Information would be grately appreciated. Regards Stuart.

2 left, one male & one female.

Yeh it can be done but not very well, have seen some rough attempts. Best way is to fit rb20 cam.