BezerkR32

never heard of a oil cooled turbo, do you mean water cooled or are you talking about the oil feed or return line as they are not there for cooling, more lubrication. either way, should be no restriction in flow.

Nothing that 75 gas wont fix. For $1500 you can get a wet kit, bottle warmer, NOS filter and guage. Wont have to replace any existing parts on your car, and will give you bucket loads more torque. It is the cheapest and easiest way to make 60kw without losing the driveability of your car. Will make the power with less boost and engine timing. have a serious think about it.

That is true, all factory turbo engines have rising rate regs. the only differnce is that the after market regs allow you to set the base fuel pressure, the rest happens on its own. you can buy 1:1 or 2:1 regs depending on your application but should only be used in conjuction with a fully programmable ECU. Mildly modified cars will not need one unless you are trying to get away without replacing injectors that are too small for application, but note that if you increase fuel pressure to richen mixture at high revs under increased boost pressures, you also fatten up mixture at idle & cruise. Very primative way to solve problem.

Pick engine rpm up then disconnect one coil plug at a time. this will take the load off that cylinder. if knock is less noticable, then it is a 90% chance you have turned a big end bearing or broken a piston in that cylinder.

Have 3 Male & 3 Female Boxer pups for sale. pedigree, father papered with Australian champion bloodline. All dogs have been wormed, vaccinated & microchipped. All red in colour, some with white markings, others with black masks. Asking $600 to good homes only. I reserve the right to cancel sale if not the case. Located in Wollongong south of Sydney. can be contacted on mobile 0425 34 99 23.

This is a universal fit pod inclusure we make, suits a 6" k&n. Sells for $180. Can either mount it as shown into inner guard or duct into front bar.

This is a universal fit pod inclosure we make, suits a 6" k&n. Sells for $180. Can either mount it as shown into inner guard or duct into front bar. But it wont be long before people start telling you that you can make one out of PVC pipe or a lunch box for $15. Depends what look you are after i guess.

[The jap numbers actually mean 8th year of the 4 emperors reign for eg. weird shit quote name=Beer Baron' date='22 Jun 2006, 03:44 PM' post='2277076] yes it says timing belt repalced at 64,286 done on the 20/9/2004.

If its true ill buy 10. easier to fit one of them than to go to all this trouble. But unless its got a comp cover this big, i dont think so. Be nice to find a turbo that will flow that and be able to low mount without pulling your hair out. just a quick topic on r33 standard turbo...yeah its ceramic exhaust wheel...a turbo mech says he can replace ceramic wheel for a steel one and some other minor mods allowing up to 600hp out of it...i am a sceptic on this...he claims to do it as a "as new turbo" for 1700 bucks comments anyone?

Make sure your boost source is coming from a cooler pipe or compressor housing, not from intake plenum. solenoids dont like vacuum. quote name='BHDave' date='22 Jun 2006, 02:54 PM' post='2276971'] No. The bleed will be tee'd to bleed boost off. The ebc has to be inline and will likely have the in and out marked on the case of the solenoid. In is the boost source, out goes to the actuator/wastegate

We are comparing aples with aples here, Skylines all have similar gearing, weight and tyre size. poor driving and wheelspin will affect ET but MPH will still be up. Daniel Beer ran 12.4 @ 124 due to poor launch technique. now with a bit of practice he has run 11.75 @ 123. ET ha improved but MPH is the same as nothing was touched on the car. Have seen a VL 26/30 run 10.0 @ 160mph. a testimate to the fact he is making 500rwkw. so MPH is the best way to see if you are making the power you state.

could be exhaust leak, had it before on several cars. turbo base gasket or manifold gasket.

If drain is blocked it will push oil through the front seal, also if you have to much crankcase pressure.

Race track is the true dyno, MPH tells the story. dyno is just a before and after tuning tool, dyno jumping to achieve increased figures is for wankers, and too many factors can effect readings from one day to another. you know if your car is making the power when you recieve a good ET at decent MPH. eg Adrians skyline made 265rwkw at unique and runs 119mph. Beery's made 285rwkw on same dyno on same day and runs 123mph. So it is quite possible these readings are what got spat out of the dyno at the time, but you will soon see how accurate they were when you run the car.

350kw is ample for a tough street car. 400-500kw is more on the competition side of things, and more likely to break such things as gearboxes & front diffs. 350kw is achievable with standard internals, and the correct combination of bolt ons. Having said that if big power is what you are after, you have probably covered everything with the exception of oil pump. I would reccomend running an external mechanical oil pump rather than the Jun or N1 pumps. There are a number of upgrade threads on this site but i doubt if there will be many with 400-500kw output upgrades. especially still running factory options such as air & p/steer. Good luck with your build, hope to hear how you go.

unless yor tuner only works on atmo cars he doesnt know what he is talking about. if you dont raise fuel pressure with boost pressure your car will suffer from fuel chase. standard regs on turbo cars are rising rate. not sure why you need one when running 11psi?

Not unusual for oil feed line to block as it has the restrictor in one end. good chance you might have siezed it. it would be a obvious leak for you to have no boost pressure and car would not idle either.

Are you still running the ignitor? they can cause missfire when they start to fail.

Yeh , imagine he had good tits, he would have cleaned up. Hoping to take 4 or 5 cars this year. There is no small car event like the jamboree, pitty the pit area & facilitys are shit but track is the best in the country.

R32 GTR complete air box assy including near new K&N panel filter and both air flow metres. Asking $300 complete. Will not seperate. Please PM if interested.

Did you use that silicone hose to plumb to the actuator? if so, put normal vacuum hose on and try it. Otherwise test actuator with compessed air. could be tear in diaphram.

All Sold

This will give you an idea on pricing. This setup was $15000 drive in / drive out tuned. Standard Rb26 internals. GCG high mount manifold, GCG 35/66 SPL, Turbosmart progate 48, Sard 650cc injectors, Bosch 044 fuel pump, Apexi D-Jetro ECU, Tomei adjustable cam gears, Gates timing belt, Custom dump pipe, cooler pipes, intake pipe and filter, custom power steer resovoir, Speedflow turbo plumbing. Eboost 1. Includes labour for removal and fittment of all parts. Tune at Unigroup. Note that no engine internals have been done, you can safely add Another 10k+ with a engine build.

Hi mate, we run rb20 inlet cams in RB25 to eliminate vvt and run adjustable gear, i think it depends on what series engine though, i havnt tried it in series 2 yet. Only do this with big engines though, mild engines we retain the vvt and control it with the ecu. keeps a fat torque band through the mid range. depends on your application. Hope this helps a little. Regards Stuart.

Soon find out i dare say.